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Author
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Topic: I need driveshaft recommendations
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Mike_R
Gearhead Posts: 150
From: Indianapolis, IN 46237
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 05-10-2001 12:45 PM
   
Hey Guys,This is a great site and I've posted a few oppinions, but I guess this is my first official question. I have a 70 Torino Cobra 460 4 speed. It's a street car that sees the track occasionally. It's pretty much a stock bodied car (4050# w/driver) and the drivetrain and suspension is fairly stock too with the exception of some traction devices. Anyhow I've gotten to the point where when I race it, it runs 11's and I'd like to set it up so I can run 10's so it's time for me to get serious and start upgrading some things (starting with a roll bar). But to get to the point, what type of driveshaft yoke, etc. do you run or at least what would you recommend for my car? I'd like to run aluminum for light weight, but I'd imagine that will not be sturdy enough with my heftly weight. Thanks.
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 19686
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 05-10-2001 01:49 PM
A race style aluminum drive shaft is the best way to go for not only strength, but ET. Call Chicago Driveline at 1-708-385-1900. They do all of our shafts. They also do UPS and Visa/MC.------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link
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Doc
Gearhead Posts: 466
From: Redwood City, Ca. USA
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 05-10-2001 11:07 PM
I thought aluminum was weaker too, till I started looking into the subject. It's quite a bit stronger while still being much lighter, it's the way to go, but get it from a known supplier like Alex suggests, there are horror stories out there. The guy that does ours has some ugly stuff in the corner from other makers.
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Mike_R
Gearhead Posts: 150
From: Indianapolis, IN 46237
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 05-11-2001 08:25 AM
Thanks alot guys. Alex, I'll give them a call. If I can use aluminum I'll be a happy camper.
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 1450
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 05-11-2001 05:40 PM
I'm confused.....
Mike_R, were you asking about only the driveshaft yoke or the driveshaft tube?
Ryan 
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Doc
Gearhead Posts: 466
From: Redwood City, Ca. USA
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 05-11-2001 06:08 PM
I imagined a comma between driveshaft and yoke . I run Mark Williams yokes but I would use other name brands as well. I know people that run stock yokes and have no failures but since I've spit the whole drivetrain out a piece at a time I figure better safe than cleanup.
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 1450
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 05-11-2001 06:24 PM
Thanks for clearing that up for me, Doc 
I guess it's time for me to get some dinner. I should'a figured that one out....
Ryan
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Mike_R
Gearhead Posts: 150
From: Indianapolis, IN 46237
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 05-11-2001 10:17 PM
Thanks guys, Yes there should have been a comma between driveshaft and yoke. My typing is clumsy.Well a bit of info for anyone interested. I contacted Chicago driveline about a driveshaft. They said really my car was too heavy for aluminum to hold up well. He suggested anything over 3000 lbs was pushing it with aluminum so I really need steel. This is one of the many perks I get for driving a two ton car I guess (HA).
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 1450
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 05-12-2001 10:11 AM
Mike_R:
2cents worth for-your-consideration::::::: I had VALLEY TRUCK PARTS, INC. of Grand Rapids, MI build my driveshaft ($145) Anyway, they told me that due to racing application (7000+RPM), the tube should be 3.5" diameter, 0.083" steel wall tube - that it needs that much mass to allow it to keep it's balance at that RPM. Balance shouldn't be off more than 0.005 (I'm not sure on the units here - ounces maybe?). Their chart said that would work for a 3200# car making 700 HP. Thus, it should still be good when I step up to a BB, which you already have. In addition, when running a manual or stick car, allow 1" - 1.5" of in/out movement at the front yoke at the trans. I thought of going with beefy 1350 series spicer yokes, but decided I wanted the U-joint to be my "weakest link", so I stayed with the 1310 U-joints. Some say the greaseless U-joints are the strongest, that the U-joints with a grease zert in the 'cross' makes them weak; I decided on going with the style that has the zert in the cap head - not in the cross (I didn't want to have to disassemble it just to grease it). Lastly, don't forget to install it "in phase". Mine been fine for 2yrs in my 3300# Toploader SBF '69 Stang on a 9" slick....
Ryan
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The '3-Pedal Attitude' Kid
in a '69 FB w/ 306 now, but
the 460+ is coming... :D
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