Motor is:
377 Clevo, 3.7" stroke, 4.030 bore, 5.7" rod, 4V Closed Ch. heads, 0.040 squish, 1.73 roller rockers, Funnelweb intake, 850dp Holley, 2" 38"long headers 3.5" collectors, 3" exhaust, 4.30 rear, 25.44" tyre, 3500lbs.
Main usage - weekend get from A to B AQAP

Please let me know if you need any more info.

quote:

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Originally posted by 69maverick:
He is going to ask if its auto 0r stick

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Combine nitrous and a 4-speed, and you might not be that competitive in serious bracket racing, but the fun factor goes out the roof. WFO clutch dumping nitrous launches are awesome. The driving part is cool too. You're one BUSY guy the whole way down the track!

4bbl Clevelands generally like tight lobe seperation angles. For good advice, you're going to have to include the compression ratio of the engine and stall speed of the converter. Naturally aspirated, you're going to need a fairly loose converter. A good, name brand 8" converter will be required for decent launches. If your engine has around 11:1 compression (a "ballpark" assuming flat-top pistons) something around 245-255 @ 0.050" on the intake, maybe a little more on the exhaust, and a 104-106 lobe seperation would be about right.

Good Luck, and Have Fun!

For further comparison purposes....
I picked out a cam for a buddies 69 11.2:1 400 small block camaro street/strip car. It has AFR 210cc aluminum heads and 1 7/8" headers with a big intake and 850 double pumper. The car weighs 3300lbs w/o driver and has 3" exhaust. It's cam specs are 249/259 @ 0.050 with around 0.570" lift on both intake and exhaust (using 1.6 intake rockers) and has a 106 degree lobe seperation. The cam is a Lunati #40136.

On a set of 28x10.5 slicks and a 4.10 gear, the car ran 6.9's in the 1/8 mile with no bottle. (equivalent to mid to high 10's in the 1/4 mile). The car has a 9" converter and 60fts in the high 1.5's.

The engine has a WIDE powerband. It does not fall out of its powerband when it shifts. The car pulls HARD the whole way down the track. It is shifted at 6800 rpm.

With a 377 in a 3500lb car, I'd be a little conservative with the cam... especially with an automatic. I'd go with something like I mentioned above with around a 104 lobe seperation for an automatic, or a 106 with a stick. For street, 106 automatic, 108 stick, would be a little cleaner.

A tire diameter of just over 25"? You ARE going to be running slicks, aren't you? Slicks will make more difference than any other modification when trying to go from point A to B ASAP.

Good Luck!

(email me if you wish - [email protected])

Thanks,

Thanks,

Below are two similar cams. One main difference is the exhaust opening point. What difference will this make. Also how much difference will the LSA make(110 vs 107)given my above combo.

Duration = 264/264 (298/298)
CL = 106/108
inl open 43 BTDC close 75 ABDC
exh open 77 BBDC close 41 ATDC
LSA = 107
overlap = 84
Lift = 0.622/0.622

Duration = 260/260 (306/306)
CL = 106/114
inl open 47 BTDC close 79 ABDC
exh open 87 BBDC close 39 ATDC
LSA = 110
overlap = 86
Lift = 0.640/0.640

Comments welcome from others also

Thanks,

quote:

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Originally posted by Clevo377:

Comments welcome from others also

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I already gave my advice... You can see it above, if you're interested. You don't have the compression ratio to pull off 260+ degrees @ 0.050". The engine will be a complete dog below 4500rpm. The 4.56 gear will help, but the car is still 3500lbs. It's going to need more torque. You'd be better off with something smaller. Your old cam would be better than what you are considering.

Just my $0.02... Take it or leave it.

Good Luck!

Thanks Mike, I did take in what you posted earlier. If the general consensus is not to go bigger, I won't.

Alex, the block is a late model Australian one. The first grind is from the same manufacturer as my original cam (Crow cams). The second is out of the Comp Cams catalog (grind #306S).

Also Alex, is it worth my while partially filling the block?

Thanks again,

Thanks,

Yes it is a cleveland block

Thanks,