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Author Topic:   351C Valves
MrXerox
Gearhead

Posts: 348
From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 04-23-2001 02:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for MrXerox   Click Here to Email MrXerox     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I just pulled my motor apart last night and am planning on doing some major upgrades. I am going to a solid roller 244 @ .050 with a .623 single pattern and needed some advice on valves. I currently have the stock valves in place and know I need to replace them as to avoid grenading my motor. I was considering going with some Ferrera valves but need a good place to buy a set from...? What do you guys suggest as far as selection and price? Thanks...
Sean.

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Jim Sams
Journeyman

Posts: 55
From: Charlotte NC
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 04-23-2001 02:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jim Sams   Click Here to Email Jim Sams     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MrXerox:
I just pulled my motor apart last night and am planning on doing some major upgrades. I am going to a solid roller 244 @ .050 with a .623 single pattern and needed some advice on valves. I currently have the stock valves in place and know I need to replace them as to avoid grenading my motor. I was considering going with some Ferrera valves but need a good place to buy a set from...? What do you guys suggest as far as selection and price? Thanks...
Sean.


I use Milodon Megaflows. They are the best value I think.

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 25883
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 04-23-2001 06:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Value vs quality? That is an age old question in life. From my experiance using EVERY valve available I would suggest Victory. I have used every valve from A-1 to Diamond/Cosworth, with Manley, Milodon, TRW,Ferra and FoMoCo in between. Most are of good quality and some are very questionable national origin. Victory supplies most of the Nascar teams and only manufatures one grade of product. Super Premium! If cost and top quality are not a conflicting issue Victory is my choice. Manley would be my second choice. We currantly use both in our race motors. Victory in MM and Manley in the two stockers.

------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link

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kid vishus
Gearhead

Posts: 6098
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 04-23-2001 08:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kid vishus   Click Here to Email kid vishus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If you buy the Ferreas, buy the top of the line, the next step down wont hold up to the solid roller's seat pressure. Been there, broke that.

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Nos351C
Gearhead

Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 04-23-2001 10:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Nos351C   Click Here to Email Nos351C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by kid vishus:
If you buy the Ferreas, buy the top of the line, the next step down wont hold up to the solid roller's seat pressure. Been there, broke that.

Rob, what was that seat pressure?

------------------
Marcus
Warsteiner- Because Life is too short to drink cheap beer!
"You just got passed by a GIRL!" -A.J. Foyt
My World

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MrXerox
Gearhead

Posts: 348
From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 04-23-2001 11:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for MrXerox   Click Here to Email MrXerox     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Er, guess I was wrong...I do not have the stock valves after all....I forgot that I had the valves replaced a couple years ago when I had the guides done. The heads have seen no track runs and only about 200 street miles since being reworked. Looking over my invoices it looks like they put "Sealed Power" part numbers v1879 and v1880's in it...I can see these have the 4 groove keepers on them. Will these work ok for the cam I have selected? I hate to spend money if I dont have to but then again I dont want to pay the consequences if you guys dont think these "new" valves will hold up to this profile...

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kid vishus
Gearhead

Posts: 6098
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 04-23-2001 11:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kid vishus   Click Here to Email kid vishus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Nos351C:
Rob, what was that seat pressure?


260 on the seat. 640 over the nose.

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Nos351C
Gearhead

Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 04-24-2001 12:21 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Nos351C   Click Here to Email Nos351C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by kid vishus:
260 on the seat. 640 over the nose.


Thanx

------------------
Marcus
Warsteiner- Because Life is too short to drink cheap beer!
"You just got passed by a GIRL!" -A.J. Foyt
My World

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70coupe
Gearhead

Posts: 459
From: Toronto,Ontario,Canada
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 04-24-2001 10:39 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 70coupe     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Don't use the 4 groove valves in a performance application or you'll be sorry!
Especially with a high lift cam. Get a good set of single groove.

[This message has been edited by 70coupe (edited 04-24-2001).]

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n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 2419
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 04-24-2001 12:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike   Click Here to Email n2oMike     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Multi-Groove valves/keepers were developed to promote valve rotation, and promote longer life. They hold the valve loosely, allowing it to spin... which is fine for getting groceries with the stock cam, but definitely NOT good when an aftermarket bumpstick is installed!

Comp Cams has a special set of keepers/retainers available for this application that holds the valve tightly... However, if hot-rodding is in the plans, I'd go with a new set of single groove stainless valves. About any name brand set of valves should be fine for street/strip use with flat tappet cams. The top notch valves are only really needed when big solid rollers or extremely agressive mega-rpm flat tappet drag race cams are used.

I don't recommend the stock Ford valves for anything. A buddy of mine who has been a Cleveland fan for over 20 years has had a few heads break off the exhaust valves in moderate street engines over the years... all using mild hydraulic or stock cams. Oddly enough, he has never had a valve pull through a multi-groove keeper. BUT, none of these engines were running aggressive cams.

FWIW, a local guy around here (Grady Lowe) sells cheap imported stainless valves really cheap. These have been used in tons of moderate street/strip engines around here with good results. I wouldn't intall them in an engine using an agressive roller, but... for their intended use, they seem to be holding up well.

Regardless of valves used, be sure to use the recommended valve springs, AND CHECK THE INSTALLED HEIGHT! ...along with the valve train geometry. I had to install pushrods that were 1/4" longer than stock in a 383 Chevy this winter. Stock length pushrods would have killed the guides in no time!

Good Luck!

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/motorcitymustang/cmml/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367

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