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Author Topic:   Engine torque roll control
Gary
Gearhead

Posts: 725
From: Sarasota, Fla. USA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 03-22-2001 07:55 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Gary   Click Here to Email Gary     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
My big block is so tight in the engine bay, the headers are only an 1/8-1/4" max away from the shock towers. Im abit worried the header will hit on the passenger side tower when I put the coals to her. What besides an engine plate to frame rails can I install to control the torque roll? Whats the best way that looks good too? I thought about a bar with rod ends, then connect one end to head or block, then the other to frame rail on the driverside. Is this common way most re-strain this problem? a chain is the cheapest way, but my car is also a show car and want something that looks as good as it works.
My headers are nickle plated, making dents for clearence will ruin the plating. Seems making the rod end tight between the engine and frame would create alot of virbration, or would it? I do have rubber engine insulators.
Car mainly for street use and would like to keep the virbration kept down to a mininum.

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 19611
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 03-22-2001 12:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
That's the best way Gary. It's adjustable that way and you can chrome it too!

------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link

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capri man
Gearhead

Posts: 3138
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-22-2001 03:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for capri man   Click Here to Email capri man     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
gary, i use a turnbuckle and it seems to work pretty good. its easy to check to see if it is still tight and could be easily taken off for a show. thanks
mike r------capri man

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 19611
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 03-22-2001 09:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ooops. I forgot to mention the rod with the heim joint ends is the best way to go Gary.

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Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link

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Gary
Gearhead

Posts: 725
From: Sarasota, Fla. USA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 03-22-2001 09:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Gary   Click Here to Email Gary     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Where's the best place to get the rod and ends, Summit or Jegs?

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Dave_C
Gearhead

Posts: 724
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99

posted 03-22-2001 11:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dave_C   Click Here to Email Dave_C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Before I added the sccop to my car fort hood clearance my engine would rock far enough for the air cleaner lid to hit the hood. I also needed a way to tie it down,

I used a turnbuckle also. Cost a grand total of $6. Bought a stainless steel turnbuckel. Replaced of the hooks on one end with an eye bolt. Bolted the eye bolt to the head. Uses an old alternator spacer to space it out from the head. Used 3 links of chain for the hook on the bottom end. Bolted the chain down with a grade 8 bolt and washers through one of the original sway bar bolt holes. Adjusted it tight, but not so tight that it didn't move at all. Left a little "give" in the rubber motor mounts to soak up some of the vibrations. Take a look:

Later,

David Cole

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 19611
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 03-23-2001 12:12 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Try S&W race cars.

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