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Author
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Topic: mini-spool installation
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jesse
Journeyman Posts: 82
From: Bedford
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 03-04-2001 11:59 PM
   
are their any tricks for installing mini-spools in 9-inch rears? any problems, things i should look out for? could anyone give me some instructions? i ordered a set of 3.89 gears, a minispool, and a installation kit the other day, and i'm going to give it a shot. do i need a special tools? also, the tech guy at summit told me to order the install kit that was listed as for a 31-spline, even though mine is a 28-spline. he said the 31-spline kit works for 31-spline and the larger diameter 28-splines. the install kit listed for 28-spline is for the smaller diameter bore housing, i guess. does anyone know if this is true? does it really matter with the install kit anyway? thanks,
jesse
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 11493
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-05-2001 05:26 PM
The installtion kit is for the ring and pinion Jesse. You really didn't need it for 3.89 gears. A crush sleeve is about $2 at any FoMoCo dealer. The mini spool just replaces the spider and side carrier gears. No trick except to make certain that you use the appropriate shims for a snug fit.  ------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link [This message has been edited by Moneymaker (edited 03-05-2001).]
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jesse
Journeyman Posts: 82
From: Bedford
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 03-06-2001 12:37 AM
can you explain to me why i don't need an installation kit? i've never worked on a rear end before, so give me the idiot explanation.
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69maverick
Gearhead Posts: 699
From: Thomaston,CT.
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 03-06-2001 08:19 AM
The only thing you will need is a gaskit for the cover,the crush sleeve like alex said.
Just unbolt the 4 studs that hold the carrier
bearings the carrier,take the whole thing out,keep track of any shims. Take your spiders out,you will be replacing the large pin and the gears.Take all the bolts that hold the ring gear on off. You might need an impact? There is a guide pin in there you will need to knock out that lines the ring gear up.Once you get it apart it will be pretty self explanitary.Puting it back together can be a little trickier. I don't think you need to worry about pinion spacing? ALEX? Just replace the crush sleeve
Retorque the pinion to about 20 inch lbs of drag on the crush sleeve. When you put the carrier back in with the Mini-spool in it and the new ring gear on don't forget the guide pin! I forget the torque specs on the ring gear bolts? Be carefull not to cross thread the end caps! You will need to turn them in or out to adjust the gear lash on the ring to pinion This should be about .008" I would also check the pattern
of the pinion to ring gear in both direction.I like it near the Middle or a little tward the bottom of the ring gear,In the forward direction. I know how to do this but it tough to write it down!! P.S. ALEX what did I miss?
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 11493
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-06-2001 02:14 PM
That's about it 69 and thanks for helping out. I hope that everyone knows that I try and respond to every post that I can as soon as I can.  Typically the installation kits come with carrier and pinion bearings, a bunch of pinion shims, bearing retainer spacer shims, crush sleeve, pinion nut, gasket, and some Loctite. Most times you can reuse the bearings, and with 4.11 or lower numerical gears, the shims. All you really need to buy is a crush sleeve and third member gasket for sure. Less than $5.00 total. ------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link
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jesse
Journeyman Posts: 82
From: Bedford
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 03-06-2001 05:03 PM
well, that's good news. the installation kit (which i will be sending back) was like $90! you're saying i only need to spend $5. good deal. thanks guys. i may need more advice. we'll see. also, 69mav said to torque the pinion to 20lb on the crush sleeve, are they're any other torque specs i should be aware of?
jesse
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 11493
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-06-2001 06:02 PM
That's 20 INCH POUNDS Jesse. ------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link
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67coupe
Gearhead Posts: 178
From: dallas NC usa
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 03-06-2001 10:21 PM
jesse when they say 20 in pounds they are refering to the 20 in pdsit takes to turn the pinion in the bearings just to make it clear right alex.------------------
67 coupe soon to have 351c
87 bronco II on 33's
30 model A currently rustbucket
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 11493
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-06-2001 10:47 PM
Correct! ------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link
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69maverick
Gearhead Posts: 699
From: Thomaston,CT.
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 03-07-2001 07:40 AM
Jesse : Let me try to explain better on the torque! The pinion has bearings and shims inside,The crush sleeve puts pressure on the bearings as you torque it down. As you tighen the pinion nut down it will place more pressure creating more drag! This drag is what your measuring. Understand this is in INCH POUNDS!! The torque wrench you use to torque your heads down is in foot pounds.
You will need a dial indicator to measure the gear lash(.008)as well. I don't know how much of this you know so just ask if you need more! If you have access to a shop manual it might explain better.
P.S. I forgot to say this drag (20"lbs)is only on the pinion! This is without the Carrier in place. Make sure you lube it up as you go.[This message has been edited by 69maverick (edited 03-07-2001).]
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jesse
Journeyman Posts: 82
From: Bedford
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 03-07-2001 08:21 AM
how do you measure inch pounds? also, i just got this rearend a few weeks ago. its from a '70 mustang, and it's probably never been opened before. do think i could still get away with not replacing all the bearings, just getting a crush sleeve, and gasket? did you say i can reuse the shims as well, i won't need any additional ones?
jesse
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69maverick
Gearhead Posts: 699
From: Thomaston,CT.
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 03-07-2001 10:16 AM
You will need a torque wrench that reads in Inch lbs. Mine is a Snap-on 3/8 drive. I used a 3/8" to 1/2" adaptor so I can use larger sockets. I think the Pinion nut is a
1+1/16? If you have a large vice put the chuck in if then You put the socket on the nut and turn it reading the amount of pressure that it takes to turn the pinion.
So to start with you would put the nut on tighten it up snug then take a reading and tighen it up more and more till you get to 20"lbs. Try to go very slowly,You don't want to go over then have to back off the nut.As you take it apart look and feel everything as our doing it! Once you take the carrier out just spin the pinion by hand from the yoke. You will feel the drag I'm talking about. all your doing is meassuring that drag. As far as the condition of the bearings its hard to say? That rear could have been done over 15 years ago but only have 1000 miles on it? It might look like a virgin but you will never know! Truer words were never spoken!! But thats a different site! You don't want to feel any slop side to side or in and out on the pinion when your done! Jim
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jesse
Journeyman Posts: 82
From: Bedford
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 03-07-2001 03:00 PM
will 80-90 wt. gear oil be ok? any suggestions? thanks again,jesse
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 21832
From: Saco, Maine USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-07-2001 04:28 PM
80-90 wt is perfect, Jesse.------------------
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L Disposable Commuter
"Ford! The closer YOU look, the better WE look!"
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 11493
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-07-2001 10:15 PM
You should probably be able to use the existing pinion shim with a 3.89 gear set. ------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link
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mach72
Gearhead Posts: 106
From: Bixby, Ok. USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 03-07-2001 11:27 PM
Also, shouldn't the pinion bearing preload be measured with a "beam" or "dial" type torque wrench, and not a "click" type. Thanks, Tom
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69maverick
Gearhead Posts: 699
From: Thomaston,CT.
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 03-08-2001 06:47 AM
Mach72: You are correct ! Very good point. I use a dial type. Some of this stuff is pretty tough to explain when you go to write it down.[This message has been edited by 69maverick (edited 03-08-2001).]
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jesse
Journeyman Posts: 82
From: Bedford
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 03-08-2001 09:19 AM
thanks guys, i borrowed a dial type, i figured it would work better, too.jesse
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69maverick
Gearhead Posts: 699
From: Thomaston,CT.
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 03-08-2001 03:34 PM
Jesse : It will feel alot tighter than you might expect! The pinion won't coast with just a twist! Once your done grab the yoke and try to wiggle it back and forth in and out, If you can check it again!
May The Force be with You!! [This message has been edited by 69maverick (edited 03-08-2001).]
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