|
Author
|
Topic: paint
|
fred
Gearhead Posts: 184
From: berea ky
Registered: Oct 2004
|
posted 10-04-2005 07:54 PM
 
Hi Guys,
Need help, getting ready to paint my engine bay on my 68 coupe, question is has anyone used OMNI AU MTK paint single stage, what ratio do you mix it 1 paint 2 parts reducer? and do you need catalyst? I'm not sure the guy at the paint store was more confused than me
Thanks Fred[This message has been edited by fred (edited 10-04-2005).]
|
1986MUTANGGTCONV
Journeyman Posts: 48
From: NJ
Registered: Sep 2005
|
posted 10-04-2005 08:56 PM
never used it but, i did some painting. 2 types of paint one uses catlist the other is baked on. the one with the catalist dries faster for a at home paint job. acid bath the car befor painting.or clean well . get the messureing tools they sell .and look at the directions for the paint.i used the arisol bpttle and cartreges they sell to spray it on myself.
|
kcode
Gearhead Posts: 3415
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99
|
posted 10-04-2005 09:30 PM
Fred,
Omni AU MTK is made by PPG and is an Acrylic Urethane. You will need a hardner and reducer. The Omni brand is a cheaper version of PPG paint. The reducers are temperature related and have a prefix of MR. The hardner has a prefix of MH. Standard mix will be around 4 parts AU : 1 part MR : 1 part MH. Being a Urethane, at least where a good respirator when spraying.Mike
|
fred
Gearhead Posts: 184
From: berea ky
Registered: Oct 2004
|
posted 10-05-2005 12:30 PM
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the advice, oh yes I used a respirator and painted outside, I really am not happy the way it turned out, but that was probably because I have'nt painted in 15 years and was used to Dulux Centari, these new paints sure let you know when you have been out of touch.
Thanks Fred
|
mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
|
posted 10-06-2005 09:29 AM
Found it the other way. The farthest I ever got with enamel was painting ex Chicago Checker Cabs a different color for a suburban cab co., buying their castoffs. It was not the end of the world if you got a run.With urethanes, it is easier to repair a screw up. When my 65 GT cv was painted with Sikkens BC/CC, came to look at car and painter was sanding out a run in the clear. Happens to the best of painters and that guy was good. He got it out and the buffer guy hit it with a couple different compounds and it was gone....with the wind! LOL! After my 66 was painted, I had told the guy to leave the trunk alone as I wanted to shoot it with tank out, sitting inside to get the tailite panel THOROUGHLY covered. I "managed" to get a run on the wheel well. Let it dry, sanded it out and buffed it. GONE! The nice thing about urethanes....after it kicks you can say goodbye to paint smell! Hose out garage, throw away tape and paper and it's gone. I shot the back of hood and decklid before sending it to painter. Painting stuff like that when it is lying flat, it keeps the "wet look" forever. Saved money by doing it also.
|
ntman
Gearhead Posts: 105
From: Mulkeytown, IL
Registered: Jul 2004
|
posted 10-14-2005 11:56 PM
quote:
Originally posted by 1986MUTANGGTCONV:
never used it but, i did some painting. 2 types of paint one uses catlist the other is baked on. the one with the catalist dries faster for a at home paint job. acid bath the car befor painting.or clean well . get the messureing tools they sell .and look at the directions for the paint.i used the arisol bpttle and cartreges they sell to spray it on myself.
Actually there are a lot more than 2 types of paint. And "one with catalyst" does not dry faster, it dries by chemical reaction as opposed to evaporation or oxidation. Just FYI.
For the engine bay I would use an acrylic urethane for sure. If it is available in your area, Imron by DuPont is very durable and would work great.
|
kc65mustang
Journeyman Posts: 26
From: Olathe,KS,USA
Registered: Feb 2005
|
posted 10-15-2005 06:02 PM
Hey guys, I just shot mine today. I used PPG dx350 chassis black......Whata think? 
|
kc65mustang
Journeyman Posts: 26
From: Olathe,KS,USA
Registered: Feb 2005
|
posted 10-15-2005 06:04 PM
Did I mention that I also replaced the rad support and battery apron. Not bad for my first try!!...
|
Big D
Gearhead Posts: 6843
From: WELLS, NEVADA USA
Registered: Nov 2000
|
posted 10-15-2005 10:10 PM
Looks good.. POR-15 is good stuff.. Holds up well.. As long as you followed their directions you should get a lot of wear & tear out of it.. GOOD JOB..
------------------
Don
6T6 Fastback
331 STROKER, T-5
Metallic Royal Blue & Silver
Candy Orange-Red Flames by McGrafix My Pics
|
rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
|
posted 10-15-2005 10:16 PM
Don't want to steal your thread but I am also gearing up to do this when I drop the new motor. Is there a good thread on how to paint the engine bay at home with home tools or maybe a good step by step that the vets could put together for rookies like me? Thanks
Richard. ------------------
rmousir
'66 Mustang
Ford Blue & white stripes
302 auto
Mustang ~ 04-05
|
kc65mustang
Journeyman Posts: 26
From: Olathe,KS,USA
Registered: Feb 2005
|
posted 10-16-2005 03:00 PM
My base coat was por-15 followed by thier gloss black the first time I did my engine bay. This time I wet sanded with 400 and shot the PPG with a 4 to 1 paint/reducer. You can use the paint striaght out of the can but if it doesn't flow then you add the reducer otherwise you will end up with dull and shine spots. Reducer is a good thing. When I did the por-15 I stripped it back to bare metal and used thier "metal prep" before shooting the por-15. I hope this helps a little...
|
ntman
Gearhead Posts: 105
From: Mulkeytown, IL
Registered: Jul 2004
|
posted 10-16-2005 05:34 PM
Most important thing to remember is to clean the engine bay, then clean it again, and again with a good wax and grease remover. Apply it with one rag then wipe it off with a clean dry rag before it dries.
|
mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
|
posted 10-20-2005 12:01 AM
My 66 cv had surface rust which was removed with an angle grinder and woven steel wire wheel disc. NASTY! Sprayed cmpt with Ospho, let dry for a few days, primed it with Sears Zinc-Rich Primer and let it sit for awhile. Sanded it wet with 320. Finished off with good ol' Krylon 1613-3 cans. It looks good to me and is easy to touch up if scratching when putting engine in, etc. It's good if someone doesn't have spray equip avail. Also...minimum overspray which was my consideration.
|
