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  POR -15

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Author Topic:   POR -15
rmousir
Gearhead

Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003

posted 03-06-2006 04:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rmousir        Reply w/Quote
Now that I am almost done my motor project I am looking to paint the engine bay. I am looking at the semi gloss POR-15.

How is it used? I don't have any rust in my engine bay that I have found. I was thinking of sanding and then priming and then rattle can the engine bay. But if the cost is not to much and it is easy to use the POR-15 might be worth waiting a couple of weeks for to save the money. I saw that the cost is $33.00 +/-. Will that get enough to do the engine bay? I would eventually do the whole under side of the car.

I am looking at the link throgh the forum if I purchase it.

Any and all comments are appreciated. Thanks. Just need a excuse to make putting the engine back better.

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rmousir
'66 Mustang
Ford Blue & white stripes
302 auto
Mustang ~ 04-05

SOON TO HAVE A NEWER '95 HO

John Z
Gearhead

Posts: 506
From: Morgantown, WV
Registered: Jul 99

posted 03-06-2006 04:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for John Z        Reply w/Quote
I've done a lot of reading about painting and IMHO the best site for auto painting is
http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index
The guru of the site did a comparison test between POR 15 and Zero Rust, and concluded the latter is more durable and cheaper and easier to apply. Zero Rust can be had in quarts or spray cans and is better at sticking to non rusty metal than POR 15. Based on this I used ZR and never tried POR. You can bur ZR from that site or directly from the maker - just google zero rust.
HTH

FSTBK65
Gearhead

Posts: 483
From: Salem, Virginia 24153
Registered: May 2004

posted 03-06-2006 04:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for FSTBK65        Reply w/Quote
I am doing POR-15 on mine. A quart would be more than enough to do the engine compartment. I have done the floors and all inside of the fastback, the dash, inside of the doors, and working my way around up underneath with less than 1 quart. And I have used 2 coats. A quart will go a long way.
I am planning on doing my engine compartment next, but underneath is a long job, since I am stripping it to bare metal.
I recommend it.

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65 fastback. 302, Paxton Supercharger 7PSI, Edelbrock heads and intake, comp cam, Motorsport rockers,flowtechs with cutouts, x pipe and 2.5in flowmasters. Subframe connectors and shelby traction bars. 4 speed, hurst shifter,Zoom clutch. 368hp and 378ft lbs at the wheels on pump gas. 8.01 @ 87.72 mph 1/8 mi with a 1.78 60ft.

427Fastback
Gearhead

Posts: 530
From: N.Vancouver.B.C
Registered: Jan 2005

posted 03-06-2006 06:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 427Fastback        Reply w/Quote
I used some POR15 glossblack on the inside of my 73F250 and was quite impressed with it.I later used the satin black POR15 on the (rather elaborate)deck of my 1936 Diamond T Truck and all i can say is 2 years later I had to strip the deck and sandblast it all off.It looked like sh*t.all faded and discolored.Seems it doesnt like UV rays and what little sun it saw(it has never been on the road) killed it.I switched to epoxy.I would never use it again,not that an engine bay see's lots of UV rays..
I am currently re-doing my Mustang engine bay (engine out)and I will be useing epoxy.I have invested to much time to take a chance on fading paint...

Cory

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68 Fastback 427MR 4 spd.Deluxe interior,8000 tach,140 speedo,am/fm,tilt.

Stan
Gearhead

Posts: 162
From: Castro Valley, CA
Registered: Jul 99

posted 03-06-2006 06:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Stan        Reply w/Quote
I'm not sure I understand why you are using Por15. I just finished mine and used about 3 cans of Krylon 1613. You can see the engine here http://web.mac.com/stanedington/iWeb/9528BA4B-2393-4AA5-B336-AC78F1F4127A/Main%20page.html Click on "Overhauled" link.
Stan

[This message has been edited by Stan (edited 03-06-2006).]

Scott302
Journeyman

Posts: 45
From: Livonia, MI, USA
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 03-06-2006 08:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scott302        Reply w/Quote
rmousir,
If you are going to use POR-15 I would not suggest you use it as a top coat. UV concerns aside, the "semi-gloss" black really isn't. Experience has shown that it is more "semi-flat" and somewhat inconsistant at that. In talking with the POR people they admit as much and we have changed our listings to "semi-flat". I would suggest you use it as a base and then topcoat it with tie-coat and a correct semi-gloss black.
Scott

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Scott Halseth
National Parts Depot
65 Convt
66 Coupe
03 Coupe

rmousir
Gearhead

Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003

posted 03-06-2006 09:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rmousir        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Stan:
I just finished mine and used about 3 cans of Krylon 1613.

Stan, is Krylon a spray paint? How did you prep the engine bay? Did you use primer? Sorry about all of the questions.

Richard.

68 Coop
Gearhead

Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 03-06-2006 10:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 Coop        Reply w/Quote
Krylon is in rattle can, and you can/should find it at ACE hardware. Not trying to steal your thunder here Stan, just helping the little I can .

------------------
William
The easiest way to find something lost, is to buy a replacement.

68 Coupe
289
C4
2:79 rear gears

Stan
Gearhead

Posts: 162
From: Castro Valley, CA
Registered: Jul 99

posted 03-06-2006 10:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Stan        Reply w/Quote
Krylon is in rattle can, and you can/should find it at ACE hardware. . .oh, never mind!

------------------
President of Bay Area Mustang Association. 2003-05
1965 Fastback
2001 GT
1966 Coupe
www.BayAreaMustangAssociation.org

Clark
Gearhead

Posts: 749
From: Rowlett,Texas
Registered: Aug 99

posted 03-06-2006 10:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Clark        Reply w/Quote
I agree with the Krylon #1613 as an option but I also have to throw in one of our sponsors Eastwood Chassis Black great product as well .

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69 393W Sportsroof Deluxe

Big D
Gearhead

Posts: 6843
From: WELLS, NEVADA USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-07-2006 03:40 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Big D        Reply w/Quote
If you want to know about POR-15 products,, check out the following link..

http://www.prp-porstore.com/

They have product info sheets & instructions,, does and don't,, plus they are really good about answering emails..

I think they have great products..

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Don
6T6 Fastback
331 STROKER, T-5

Metallic Royal Blue & Silver
Candy Orange-Red Flames by McGrafix
My Pics

buening
Gearhead

Posts: 317
From: Decatur, IL
Registered: Mar 2005

posted 03-07-2006 08:26 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for buening        Reply w/Quote
I use ZeroRust. It is half the price and sticks just as good as the more expensive POR15. I'm not sure how the above poster got all that painted with a quart. I used an entire gallon for the entire front clip from the cowl forward and the entire underside. Actually a little more than a gallon would have been perfect. You will want more than one thin coat on there so don't skimp.

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1970 Grabber Blue Mach 1 H-code
1970 Fastback
2003 Torch Red Mustang

sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 03-07-2006 08:30 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus        Reply w/Quote
POR-15 has its place, but just like anything else it needs to be used as intended. If you are going to use it, go ahead and do the steps they recommend for surface prep, application, and topcoating.

If you are looking at using POR-15 in your engine bay, please, please, please do NOT brush it on. It will look like crap even if you topcoat it. If you want a smooth finish it needs to be sprayed, and POR-15 does not come in spray cans. You need to have an air compressor and a paint gun to use it, and it is a royal pain to clean up afterwards.

If you are concerned about rust, I would use zero-rust as a primer and topcoat with krylon 1613.

It sounds like rust is not an issue though, you could save a lot of money and effort by using regular old rustoleum or krylon's rust preventative primer and then top coating with rustoleum semi gloss or krylon 1613, all of which you can buy spray cans locally for less than $4 a can, probably much less than that. And, krylon 1613 blends awesomely if you need to touch it up in the future.

rmousir
Gearhead

Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003

posted 03-07-2006 09:00 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rmousir        Reply w/Quote
So if I go with Rustoleum primier and a few cans of gloss paint I should be ok?

For prep should I go down to the metal or just give everything a good sanding but not to the metal? I was thinking about going down and using the rustoleum primer. Then a semi gloss black, maybe 3 coats. If I go to the metal can I go straight to the primer or do I have to use something else first?

It will just be the inside of the engine bay for now. Later in the year I will be doing under the fenders and the front under the grill. I figure it is easier now since the motor is out.

Thanks very much for any additional information.

Richard.

sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 03-07-2006 09:38 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus        Reply w/Quote
Richard, I last did my car 12 years ago, and I used chemical stripper to take it down to bare metal. I was 18 at the time and knew nothing about paint. I painted the bare metal with rustoleum primer and then rustoleum satin black. 12 years and 100,000 daily driver miles later I have no rust. The paint has some chips from all those miles and the satin finish of the paint always looks dirty even after getting washed. Otherwise, it is just as smooth as when it was painted 12 years ago.

Personally, I like the look of a gloss finish in the engine bay, it makes it look very clean, although it is technically not correct.

There is a distinct difference between semi-gloss and satin finishes. I would not recommend a satin finish due to it not looking clean, ie, it seems to hold dirt.

I will most likely go with a semi-gloss myself this time around.

As for going to bare metal or not, it depends on if you need to. In my case, the engine bay had been bombed so many times with various colors and kinds of paint, that it was cracked and peeling in places, neither of which sands easily for a smooth finish.

If you can sand the current paint smooth, I would leave it and just topcoat with black. If there are a lot of cracks, chips, or peeling, I would go to metal and start it over with a good primer and then topcoat with black.

427Fastback
Gearhead

Posts: 530
From: N.Vancouver.B.C
Registered: Jan 2005

posted 03-07-2006 10:04 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 427Fastback        Reply w/Quote
If your going to use spray bombs I would source out the color you need in an enamel finish as apposed to laquer.Enamel takes longer to dry but generally holds up better.

I used to use VHT Hood bumper&trim paint.I liked the finish,it sprayed well and held up very well to weather and age..Due to our(Canadian)extremelly idiotic language laws it is once again unavailable in Canada,and regardless of what the can says I always prime first and make sure the surface is warm..

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68 Fastback 427MR 4 spd.Deluxe interior,8000 tach,140 speedo,am/fm,tilt.

All times are ET (US)

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