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Author
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Topic: Floor pan welds
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HHStang
Gearhead Posts: 596
From: Coastal SC, USA
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 07-14-2005 10:55 PM
 
I've heard conflictng info on how to weld in. Should I cut old stuff out and butt weld new ones in or leave some material and overlap weld? Thanks, Mike------------------
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1967 472 Prost D1X FBstang
1972 429 Mach/CJ Convertible
1997 Cobra vert S Trim (SOLD)
2004 F150 4x4 Crew FX4
Hobby site: www.mikemustangs.net
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Mike W
Gearhead Posts: 135
From: CA
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 07-14-2005 11:31 PM
If you have just a slight overlap, it would be easier to weld plus the overlap would almost disappear by the time you are done welding.
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66fstbck
Gearhead Posts: 384
From: Worthington, Pa. USA 16262
Registered: Feb 2000
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posted 07-14-2005 11:39 PM
I used the overlap method on mine and then used a body hammer to dress it up nicely underneath. I think they came out pretty nice, if i say so myself  ------------------
Alan
66 Fastback
99 GT Convertible
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ddenton749
unregistered
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posted 07-15-2005 08:14 AM
I butt welded all of mine. I didn't want do leave an overlap because I felt that it would be a place for moisture to get in and start rusting again. I did all of my welds from the top so there is very little dressing/grinding to do underneath. I never thought of leaving a small overlap (1/8"), but that might leave more work underneath afterwards.------------------
'73 Convertible, 351C 2V
'91 LX Convertible 5.0
Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club
"I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be."
My Site
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HHStang
Gearhead Posts: 596
From: Coastal SC, USA
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 07-15-2005 06:11 PM
Thanks all. Looks like a 3 to 1 overlap to butt...------------------
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1967 472 Prost D1X FBstang
1972 429 Mach/CJ Convertible
1997 Cobra vert S Trim (SOLD)
2004 F150 4x4 Crew FX4
Hobby site: www.mikemustangs.net
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74merc
Gearhead Posts: 1322
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 07-16-2005 01:12 AM
another vote to butt.It isn't easy, but the end result is peace of mind. If water can get in the seam it will, and it will rust. If there is no seam between steel, water can't get in there. its a better fit when you butt it together, the overlap throws it off, but butting it in won't be perfect either. The heat stretches, draws and pushes. 3 local body shops, one for custom cars, one for antique custom cars and AutoBeauty of Alabama all butt them together. I asked before I started.
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Scott H
Gearhead Posts: 1480
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 07-16-2005 05:06 PM
A mixed vote.If you are an experienced welder and confident with your cutting and fitting abilities, do the butt weld. If you think you might measure wrong then there is a good chance you will cut too much metal and have a large gap to fill. Also it can be easy for a beginning welder to 'blow through' the edges. As you are trying to close the gaps and stick them together, you can actually widen the gaps by losing metal.
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juiceman39
Journeyman Posts: 61
From: wadsworth, Oh USA
Registered: Jul 2005
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posted 07-16-2005 10:10 PM
As a first time floor pan installer, I can vouch that it was not easy getting a fit well enough to butt weld-not that I could do it anyway. Mine ended up being short. The best thing I learned was screw the new pan tight to the frame rail before cutting. The floor doesnt want to fit tight to the frame without some persuasion.------------------
1966 Mustang Coupe, 89'302HO, Edelbrock w/Holley 600 Carb, T-10
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65 Wildstang
Journeyman Posts: 16
From: Loretto,TN U.S.
Registered: May 2004
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posted 07-18-2005 06:54 PM
I just finished my pans a few months ago.I borrowed a crimping tool and crimped around the floor pan.It was about half a inch that was lipped.After I finished welding ,we filled the seams with all metal.If you looked under the car you wouldn't never have known the pans were put in.------------------
65 coupe.351W,T5 trans,Edelbrock RPM heads & cam,Air Gap intake,Speed Demon carb,9in rear 4:11 posi The Heartbeat Stops Here
http://members.cardomain.com/65wildstang
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