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Author
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Topic: I had no idea stripper's worked so hard...
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 10-23-2005 10:33 PM
 
Man, this is slow going. BUT, the part that's done sure is nice to look at...
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 10-23-2005 10:36 PM
I should add, spoke with the neighbor who works at a body shop, and he mentioned they've been having problems with the company they farm out the sandblasting to. Apparently they've been getting cars back where you can see the frame of the hood, trunklid, roof, etc, from the outside because of too much pressure...I'm glad I decided to do chemical strip on the outside body panels. Once that is done, I'll media blast the firewall, underside, floors and trunk, etc, and then the REAL fun begins.
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 10-23-2005 11:26 PM
Cool. Before you do the media gig, beg, borrow, rent, a high pressure washer. I did that on the 66 and it made life pretty easy. You'll use less media. How many coats are on that beauty?
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 10-23-2005 11:27 PM
Sam, how are you preventing the bare metal from rusting???
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mustangboy
Gearhead Posts: 1343
From: Ont, Canada
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 10-24-2005 12:24 AM
quote:
Originally posted by 68 Coop:
Sam, how are you preventing the bare metal from rusting???
I was wondering the same thing myself.The bodyshop that did my cars did one panel at a time so they could quickly get primer on the bare metal.
------------------
68 J-Code,Sprint,306 4 speed,4.11s 13.69@101...............
66 coupe 289 4 speed, 3.20 cruiser http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/mustangboy.html http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/mustangboy2.html
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Dave Gibson
Moderator Posts: 10769
From: Norfolk, Virginia, USA M&M#166 MCA#47921
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 10-24-2005 05:32 AM
Looking good Sam!  Yes, it's lots of work, but you don't have to worry about warping panels or blowing holes into any metal parts. Dave & Terri ------------------
'65 Mustang Fastback
'66 Mustang Coupe
'02 Explorer XLT
Common sense isn't common anymore.
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 10-24-2005 09:42 AM
quote:
Originally posted by 68 Coop:
Sam, how are you preventing the bare metal from rusting???
Actually hadn't thought that far ahead. I've used Ospho with good results in the past, but I figured with a dehumidifier in the garage I have a few weeks before I have to worry about any rust. Pete, three coats. Original Gulfstream Aqua, an epoxy primer and the dark blue. I guess four if you count the original primer.
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ddenton749
unregistered
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posted 10-24-2005 10:50 AM
quote:
Originally posted by 68 Coop:
Sam, how are you preventing the bare metal from rusting???
I sandblasted my 73 vert back in July and I didn't prime or paint right away. (I live in the NE) Sitting in the garage it just didn't rust. As long as you leave it inside you'll have plenty of time. ------------------
'73 Convertible, 351C 2V
'91 LX Convertible 5.0
Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club
"The best things in life are free, but the really kick-a** things cost a fortune."
My Site
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craigber
Gearhead Posts: 128
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: Sep 2000
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posted 10-24-2005 11:19 AM
i ferl your pain but it will be worth it....just finished my son's 1977 Cobra II.....aviation stripper, heat gun and sandblast....2 months and i painted it in my driveway...think of it as a great excuse to drink a few beer!
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/craigber/cobra3.jpg
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 10-24-2005 11:42 AM
Sam, nice work thats something I should have done.------------------
Mustangsandmore member #351w
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs 65 BIG Boss hood scoop My Pics "Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it, misdiagnosing it and then misapplying the wrong remedies." Groucho Marx
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 10-24-2005 05:10 PM
I can relate.  I am using PPG DX520 conditioner and DX579 metal treatment to ward off rust after stripping. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'05 Mercury Sable LS 3.0L DOHC 24V Duratech V6
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 10-24-2005 07:16 PM
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
I can relate.
Yes. yes, you can. Looking good there Steve. What's the project car in the background? I got hit about 10 years ago and the person at fault paid for that new driver quarter to be installed. I never realized it for it was perfectly straight when I got it back, but there was a skim layer of bondo from the top of the quarter down to the wheel-lip. You can see the seem where they welded in the new skin about an inch down from the top, any takers on why they would have put a skim layer of bondo over almost the entire quarter? I don't know whether to be perturbed at all that bondo on it or impressed that they had it looking so damn smooth when they were done. You can see down the quarter on my page here... http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/Sig.html I'm actually more scared now that I won't be able to repeat it on my own (the straight finish on that quarter), as my intention was to put as little bondo as possible on the car. Got about 4 more hours in today and still have the lower rear quarter to go. I work a small area at a time. If I try to get too ambitious and put stripper over a larger area, it dries up on me before I can get to it all. I'm half tempted to just take a week or two of leave to work on it. Not sure who I got that idea from.  Definitely need to get it stripped before the baby comes or it'll look the same for another year!
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 10-24-2005 07:18 PM
quote:
Originally posted by sigtauenus:
What's the project car in the background?
That's my Sprint, patiently waiting it's turn. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'05 Mercury Sable LS 3.0L DOHC 24V Duratech V6
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fordfan
Gearhead Posts: 3176
From: Walla Walla, Wa, USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 10-24-2005 08:03 PM
Are you sure thats not an Epoxy primer on the repaired corner?.. My mustang has epoxy primer on it. I have a pair of headers that got abit of overspray on them; they also had the factory paint and rusted areas. I had them tank stripped and they came back bare metal... except for the tan epoxy primer overspray. That stuff is tough. It is a PPG brand primer they no longer make. [This message has been edited by fordfan (edited 10-24-2005).]
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 10-24-2005 09:26 PM
Thanks Sam, and you too Steve. I am really surprised they're isn't more rust on both the cars, since you guys see snow AND salt from the ocean.
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bob6364
Gearhead Posts: 447
From: griswold,ct usa MCA#59447
Registered: Dec 2004
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posted 10-24-2005 11:58 PM
That skim coat of bondo is what made it all pretty.I know atleast 3 guys in my area that do show car quality paint jobs and in all 3 cases your car will roll out of their shop with a skim coat over 90-100% of the body.they will make your car look better then it did from the factory.
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 10-25-2005 09:53 AM
quote:
Originally posted by bob6364:
That skim coat of bondo is what made it all pretty.I know atleast 3 guys in my area that do show car quality paint jobs and in all 3 cases your car will roll out of their shop with a skim coat over 90-100% of the body.they will make your car look better then it did from the factory.
Seems like it would take a LOT of work to sand that much bondo smooth though. too much pressure here or there and you've got waves all the way down. Any idea how they control the application and sanding to make it so smooth? I don't mean smooth as in sanded smooth, but as in no waves. I mean, my quarter was perfectly straight before I stripped it.
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lonewolf
Gearhead Posts: 419
From: Colorado; M&M #3117
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 10-25-2005 10:43 AM
Hey Guys,If you are going to epoxy primer the bare metal, check out this stuff: http://www.picklex20.com/ I have used it before to store bare metal with pretty good success. If you are planning to etch prime, don't use it. Etching primer reacts negatively with it. Cheers, Rick ------------------
Lonewolf
1968 Coupe in Pieces
99 1/2 F250
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bonfire
Journeyman Posts: 45
From:
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 10-25-2005 01:41 PM
quote:
Originally posted by mellowyellow:
Cool. Before you do the media gig, beg, borrow, rent, a high pressure washer. I did that on the 66 and it made life pretty easy. You'll use less media. How many coats are on that beauty?
Are you implying to use a high pressure washer instead of a pressurized media blaster. I'm interested in details.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 10-25-2005 06:24 PM
quote:
Originally posted by 68 Coop:
Thanks Sam, and you too Steve. I am really surprised they're isn't more rust on both the cars, since you guys see snow AND salt from the ocean.
My car spent all it's life in California until I bought it in 2001. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'05 Mercury Sable LS 3.0L DOHC 24V Duratech V6
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bob6364
Gearhead Posts: 447
From: griswold,ct usa MCA#59447
Registered: Dec 2004
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posted 10-25-2005 11:21 PM
quote:
Originally posted by sigtauenus:
Seems like it would take a LOT of work to sand that much bondo smooth though. too much pressure here or there and you've got waves all the way down. Any idea how they control the application and sanding to make it so smooth? I don't mean smooth as in sanded smooth, but as in no waves. I mean, my quarter was perfectly straight before I stripped it.
Thats why show quality paint jobs are so expensive,lots of work.You said it yourself it was perfect before you stripped it  They skim coat EVERYthing.
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Dobermanalley
Journeyman Posts: 71
From: Gilbert,Az
Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 10-26-2005 12:06 AM
Your cars look like mine. Try PPG DP40 for primer. That stuff is great. Just be ready to clean your gun when done spraying as it sticks to the metal in your gun as good as it sticks to your car!
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 10-26-2005 12:49 AM
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
My car spent all it's life in California until I bought it in 2001.
Thanks Steve, I guess I am wrong, but I thought salt from the ocean had the same effect on a vehicle as driving in it.
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 10-26-2005 07:53 PM
quote:
Originally posted by bonfire:
Are you implying to use a high pressure washer instead of a pressurized media blaster. I'm interested in details.
No, not instead. Rather, as a prelude. In doing a full resto like Sam is doing, it is good to get the bottome clean also. A guy loaned me a big Honda pressure washer and it blew some of a repaint off what little remained of the sheetmeta-replaced it all. That thing was so powerful it took two hands to hold on to the hose. The undercarriage was spotless upon finishing. Some rust there but all crud was gone. Used it inside to blow off the factory sealer. made the job a cleaner task. On some cars with sh*tty repaints, a high pressure washer will blast some of it off. For a full resto would surely do it before painting.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 10-26-2005 08:03 PM
quote:
Originally posted by 68 Coop:
Thanks Steve, I guess I am wrong, but I thought salt from the ocean had the same effect on a vehicle as driving in it.
Nothing is as bad as driving in it. For comparison, in 1979 I got rid of a '70 Mustang sportsroof I owned because it was too rusted. I only found one rust hole on my Mach, a hole the size of a quarter on my tail light panel. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'05 Mercury Sable LS 3.0L DOHC 24V Duratech V6
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 10-26-2005 09:25 PM
I changed a clutch on a 65 for a guy when I lived in CA, I swear I've never seen such nice floors as when I was under that car. And they were untouched original too!
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 10-26-2005 09:37 PM
Pete, and anybody else who have seen the new 67 fastback full quarters for sale, are the countour lines the same for 67 and early 68? Obviously not the fake scoops, but if I scabbed in the 68 scoop area, would the contour lines around it match up?Interesting read...
http://www.impressionsbynightmyst.com//chris4.html
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 10-27-2005 08:44 AM
I would think so. As a thought, to put your mind at ease, make a paper template of the character line on your 68 and check it against a 67 in your area. There must be a couple you could compare. Caught that thread before and it is nice work!! Notice how they kept a thin strip of the original 1/4 to get ACCURATE fitment with the door, before removing it.
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 10-27-2005 04:21 PM
quote:
Originally posted by mellowyellow:
I Notice how they kept a thin strip of the original 1/4 to get ACCURATE fitment with the door, before removing it.
I did notice but didn't realize why. Wow, what a great technique...I wouldn't have thought of that. I'll have to remember to bolt the new pass side door up before I start cutting.
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