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  Rust removal

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Author Topic:   Rust removal
68F100
Gearhead

Posts: 2835
From: Burlington, Iowa
Registered: Oct 99

posted 06-05-2005 11:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68F100        Reply w/Quote
Has anyone tried something like this?

http://www.arkansaspontiacs.org/techstories/Electro.html

I think I'm going to try it on some parts.

sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 06-06-2005 02:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus        Reply w/Quote
I've never tried it but it looks interesting.

lonewolf
Gearhead

Posts: 419
From: Colorado; M&M #3117
Registered: Jul 2003

posted 06-07-2005 11:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for lonewolf        Reply w/Quote
Mad scientists club. I use a neutralizer:

http://www.picklex20.com/


Cheers,

Rick

2FarGone
Journeyman

Posts: 97
From: Kent, Oh,
Registered: Nov 2004

posted 06-08-2005 02:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 2FarGone        Reply w/Quote
Yes.

I've used it on some woodwork tools, worked great. I'm looking to use it on several other items.

I've read where some feel electrolysis causes hydrogen embrittlement. Does, but when does it become a problem?

I've also read where some are worried about the hydrogen given off by the process building up to explosive consentrations ... I don't see it unless someone is intentionally consentrating the gas.

Another thing I've seen discussed is use of stainless anode. I hear the stainless will break down into some toxic substance.

Current is directly related to not only surface area but to washing soda consentration. I couldn't figure out why my power supply kept overloading till I realized I refreshed with too stout of a solution.


The proper polarity is most important. The anode deteriorates quickly, you don't want to part being derusted plugged into the POS.

[This message has been edited by 2FarGone (edited 06-08-2005).]

68F100
Gearhead

Posts: 2835
From: Burlington, Iowa
Registered: Oct 99

posted 06-15-2005 12:22 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68F100        Reply w/Quote
I've done a few parts so far. I'm satisfied with the results. My parts took longer than an hour like described, but the rust does come off. What crud was left over, I hit with the drill/wire wheel and it's clean bare metal.

30 years of rust gone in half a day isn't too bad. It's cheap too.

pmhvps
Gearhead

Posts: 734
From: Burlington,ON,Canada ,in the heart of the Golden Horseshoe.
Registered: Oct 2003

posted 07-02-2005 10:12 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for pmhvps        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 68F100:
I've done a few parts so far. I'm satisfied with the results. My parts took longer than an hour like described, but the rust does come off. What crud was left over, I hit with the drill/wire wheel and it's clean bare metal.

30 years of rust gone in half a day isn't too bad. It's cheap too.



Thanks, for the info. I was going to do a search.......
Mike.

mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 07-12-2005 11:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow        Reply w/Quote
I'll stick to a Muriatic Acid Dip for steel parts..no pot metal, Rusty..From Mass. 66 motor mount brackets. Had them in straight Muriatic for an hour and they were brand new. Water rinse, spray with Ospho, leave them in sun for a few hours, quick steel wool, prime with Metal Etch Primer, let sit for hour, spray with black, small piece gets natural paint and they're concours ready!

All times are ET (US)

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