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William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you.

You can get them calibrated, usually by sending them to the manufacturer, but most people I know just compare them to another known good TW. It actually isn't all as crucial as you might think, you'll notice the range on torque specs are usually fairly wide. What is more important usually is that the fasteners all have a uniform torque to allow an even loading of a precision surface.

PS, if you saw how seldom some dealership techs use their torque wrenches, it would scare the hell out of you.

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William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you.

Why would you be using a calibrated tool like a torque wrench as a breaker handle to begin with?

I never use my Torque Wrenches at home or at work for anything beyond what they are intended for..which is torquing bolts...not breaking torque.

FYI...in my line of work , all torque wrenches are sent out every 6 months for re-calibration...and even sooner if they happen to get dropped by accident.

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William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you.

Yes , a good Torque Wrench should have clicked if the item being torqued was at the assigned value you had set on the wrench. The operative phrase being "Being Torqued"..not breaking torque.

I have never used one to break torque..as I have too much respect for my A&P License and my personal tools...I assume the click may not apply in reversal of torque application..as that is not its designed intent.

I do suggest this...breaker bars and breaker handles for breaking high torque items like lugs...and only use sockets and extensions that are rated for impact gun purposes when using these items.

Follow these simple practices...and your trips to the tool store for replacements will be far fewer..and you just might save a knuckle or two from a standard socket walling out or an extension breaking under load.

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William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you.

No problem my friend....hell , I wish I had a dollar for everything that I had to learn the hard way , I can assure you if I did...I wouldn't be wrenching on commercial jets for someone else now. (LOL)

Regarding the engine you plan to work..do a lot of reading on the subject...find a machine shop if you can , that won't mind you observing them...those things have helped me beyond belief.

Also...I for one , do not use Air Tools for tearing down engines or assembly. The educated feel between the wrench and the hand can sometimes prevent breaking off a factory spec bolt or rounding off a bolt head that has been in place for more years than we would care to calculate at times.

I'm tearing down a 351C at present...and I've done a number of Windsors in the past..but by far the worst I've ever encountered for frozen bolts was a 2.3L Turbo out of a 1988 T-Bird Turbo Coupe

I believe in a liberal use of a product called KROIL..I like it better than WD40 or Liquid Wrench...it is advertised as the Oil that Creeps and it works well. Just don't use it on items that can't be completely cleaned afterwards...or torque and tightness will be hampered along the way Lug Nuts being a great example.

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William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you.