Author
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Topic: Gonna build a garage...
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Rustang Gearhead Posts: 412 From: Clarion PA Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 01-24-2003 12:31 PM
We just moved into our new house, and while the house is nice, I'm garage-less! On the bright side, I get to build what I want. So I'm looking for suggestions, layouts, information I can check out on the internet, etc.. I'm looking at 30 x 60 max, possibly with an upstairs for a "clean room" and storage. Looking to spend about 20-25K max. Heating's important too, as I'm from PA. ------------------ '68 mustang 351 clevor- 10.92@124 '67 Stang, 351W -11.18@118 '69 351C Torino-14.90@100 '78 Pickup 351W-15.56@88 '79 Pickup 460 ET=??
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steve'66 Gearhead Posts: 5897 From: Sonoma,CA,USA Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 01-24-2003 12:51 PM
How about an insulated metal building on a concrete slab?http://www.metalbuilding.net/ SteveW
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68 S-code GT Gearhead Posts: 940 From: Sayreville, NJ, US Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 01-24-2003 12:59 PM
Definitely go as big as you can afford! Nothing beats having plenty of room!
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steve'66 Gearhead Posts: 5897 From: Sonoma,CA,USA Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 01-24-2003 01:01 PM
Or since you're in Pennsylvania, can you find an Amish builder? I hear they build good storage buildings, barns, etc. at low prices.$20-25K isn't much of a budget, My brother spent $60,000 on his two story 40x60' garage in Washington state. SteveW
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 32067 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 01-24-2003 01:33 PM
I wouldn't build a metal building in a cold climate. I'd think that would cost more to heat. You can't build it too big. It will be too small before you know it. Spend the bucks on good wiring, good heating system, good insulation, good windows, etc... It will be worth it in the long run. You can save massive amounts of money by doing what you can yourself, just have the good sense to be honest in what you can do well, and what you can't. Build the best foundation you can afford, and pay good attention to drainage. Congrads on the new house! ------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Please remember our sponsors, Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, MyFordPerformance.com, and FordRamAir.com
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 32067 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 01-24-2003 01:35 PM
Also, definitely build a second floor. It's good storage value for the money spent.------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Please remember our sponsors, Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, MyFordPerformance.com, and FordRamAir.com
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timjk Journeyman Posts: 52 From: Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 01-24-2003 01:42 PM
Have you thought about in floor radiant heat. Seems to be popular up here in Washington with our long winters. Would be great to have a nice warm floor to stand on!Tim
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Rustang Gearhead Posts: 412 From: Clarion PA Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 01-24-2003 04:26 PM
Tim I agree. You can have a garage 70 degrees at eye level and still be 20degrees down on the floor! I definitely want in-floor heat in a portion of the floor. My wife's uncle claims you can heat the floor with a standard water heater but I think he's full of crap!
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Mario428 Journeyman Posts: 57 From: Charlottetown, PEI, Canada Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 01-24-2003 05:33 PM
The floor heat is a great idea, very popular up here in the great white north. A water heater will do the job easily. Remember the heat transfer process is very slow and the burner on a hot water heater can easily keep up. My brother has a 50 x 60 shop and heats it with floor radiant using a oil fired hot water heater.
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 32067 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 01-24-2003 05:38 PM
Floor heat is awesome! I wish I could go back 10 years in time to when I built my first garage. I'd have sprung for it. ------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Please remember our sponsors, Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, MyFordPerformance.com, and FordRamAir.com
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 32067 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 01-24-2003 05:41 PM
One mistake I did is I only have one 220v outlet in the center of the shop. I wish I would have run another one to the other end, because there are no 220v extension cords. ------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Please remember our sponsors, Mustangs Plus, NPD, Osborn Reproductions, MyFordPerformance.com, and FordRamAir.com
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Buster Gearhead Posts: 599 From: Orlando Registered: May 2002
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posted 01-24-2003 06:17 PM
I think I would put the air lines in the floor as well.... with a flush lid that would be strong enough to withstand the weight of a car. All over the place Same with electric...
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68F100 Gearhead Posts: 1998 From: Fort Madison, Iowa USA - United We Stand Registered: Oct 99
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posted 01-24-2003 09:30 PM
quote: Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere: One mistake I did is I only have one 220v outlet in the center of the shop. I wish I would have run another one to the other end, because there are no 220v extension cords.
I could make ya one Steve
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mustangboy Gearhead Posts: 571 From: Ont, Canada Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 01-25-2003 12:04 AM
quote: Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere: One mistake I did is I only have one 220v outlet in the center of the shop. I wish I would have run another one to the other end, because there are no 220v extension cords.
I used to use one to hook up the arc welder to the stove outlet
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steve'66 Gearhead Posts: 5897 From: Sonoma,CA,USA Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 01-25-2003 01:02 AM
[/b][/QUOTE]I used to use one to hook up the arc welder to the stove outlet [/B][/QUOTE] I still use one to hook up my arc welder to the dryer outlet in my humble attached garage. SteveW
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timjk Journeyman Posts: 52 From: Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 01-26-2003 03:04 PM
quote: Originally posted by Rustang: Tim I agree. You can have a garage 70 degrees at eye level and still be 20degrees down on the floor! I definitely want in-floor heat in a portion of the floor. My wife's uncle claims you can heat the floor with a standard water heater but I think he's full of crap!
I believe the uncle. Seen it done with a electric water heater of all things. Once you get the slab warm, doesn't take much to keep it that way.
Tim
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Rustang Gearhead Posts: 412 From: Clarion PA Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 01-27-2003 12:37 PM
Do any of you guys have any experience with car lifts? I thought it might be handy to double-stack the cars to save room.As far as the in-floor heat, I think I'll plan on that and try the water heater deal first. Worse case I'll have to buy a boiler and the water heater could remain on when I'm not using the garage. ------------------ '68 mustang 351 clevor- 10.92@124 '67 Stang, 351W -11.18@118 '69 351C Torino-14.90@100 '78 Pickup 351W-15.56@88 '79 Pickup 460 ET=??
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Just Strokin Gearhead Posts: 754 From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-27-2003 01:04 PM
put a 120v wall plug every 3 to 4 feet and some in the ceiling too. put 8' lights and put plenty about 4-6' apart. put in the plumbing for a toilet and sink drain. get a 20 gallon 120v hot water heater too.make it at least 12ft tall with 10 ft roll up doors.... ------------------ Larry No fast Fords at this time but one fine cruising 96 F350 CC DRW Power Strokin diesel. And one rusty 64 Fairlane nick-named the Rust Bucket....And sometimes called the Money Pit... The sounds of a brain dropping into gear..... "Buzzzzzz.......Click"
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Ryan Wilke Gearhead Posts: 1243 From: Stanton, Michigan 49707 Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 01-27-2003 01:04 PM
Rustang, I was over to a friend's shop yesterday and had my puddle-jumper Ranger on his new lift... What he has is a 2-post lift that has four arms that lift at the frame. He bolted it down, plugged it in (220V) and pulls the levers.... It has its own electric hydraulic pump & reservoir. IT IS WAY NICE - BUT WAY PRICY! He said it cost him 6K$... you guessed it: it has a SNAP-ON sticker on the side! He also told me he had to get a tractor over to his house to unload the near 2500# shipping weight! The only tuning he had to do was ensure the two posts were level TO EACH OTHER, or syncronized; otherwise, the two sides won't lift evenly and then the vehicle tips to one side or the other. I think I've seen other brands advertised for around 2800$ (less shipping). Also consider: I've heard that folks who installed four post units wish they'd of installed 2-post units...otherwise you still can't get to the wheelhouses as well as you'd like to. Ryan
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Ryan Wilke Gearhead Posts: 1243 From: Stanton, Michigan 49707 Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 01-27-2003 05:29 PM
Other thoughts on garage ideas: * I've seen folks install white siding on the INSIDE of their garage; even just 1 or 2 walls. Their thoughts were that it was easily washed down (power washer) and the light reflection was great! * If a lift isn't in your budget; consider installing a pit with a removal grate in the floor - my uncle had one and it allowed him to work under a vehicle; think about installing (A) a protected/armored light fixture in the pit below the grating (armored so dripping coolant, fuel, etc. doesn't break the bulb or cause a fire), (B) a weather-tight 110V power recepticle, (C) if you are planning on having a compressed air system, you may want to plumb in an air-line pickup into the pit before you pour the concrete walls to the pit. (C) Figure for at least a foot of gravel to have for a pit floor, so any spills will not linger there. MOST IMPORTANT ABOUT HAVING/USING A PIT: Use a 10" portable fan and tilt it down to blow into the pit for 10 minutes BEFORE you enter it EVERYTIME; this effort should purge out any exhaust fumes or fuel vapors that WILL have collected/settled into the pit. * Make provisions for having an adequate overhead beam (wood or metal) located centrally and securely fastened; this would provide you to secure a ratching chain 'come along' or even a small wheeled trolley roll allong from it. You may want to pull an engine or simply secure your pickup box up off the frame from it. * You may want to have some natural lighting (windows), but consider window location - you may not want them at eye level; so folks outside can't peek in on your stash... mount them high in the wall. Consider windows that are 12" high but 2' wide. I stapled plastic sheeting (cut to size) on the inside of my eye-level windows...this treatment still lets in the light, but not neighborhood kids peering eyes when I'm not home. * Consider installing the framework (for installation later) of a loovered exhaust fan in the back wall, just below ceiling. Once you have a fan, install it outfitted with a screen to (keep out insects & critters). The fan will be a great relief to blow out that hot, sticky summer air or fume-ladened air via just opening the garage door a foot and flipping on the fan to blow in fresh outside air. Ryan
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