Author
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Topic: Welder info please!
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Larry Jennings Gearhead Posts: 495 From: Redwood City, Ca. USA Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 04-21-2002 11:17 PM
I want a tig welder and I don't know doo doo about them. This welder will theoretically be used for body panels on the thin end and 120 wall tubing for roll bars and the like on the heavy end of it's normal use. I don't care about size or brand but it must be single phase 220 friendly. What are the atributes I should be looking for? TIA
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 24286 From: Saco, Maine Toys: '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Registered: May 99
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posted 04-22-2002 07:14 PM
Great question! Hopefully some welders will enlighten us. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip MCA Member # 47773 The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that, you got it made.
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speedy Gearhead Posts: 165 From: Parkersburg WV Registered: Nov 99
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posted 04-23-2002 02:07 AM
If you own a AC/DC stick welder, you don't have to buy a Tig only machine. You can buy the tig attachments for the stick machine. You can get the kits that have the torch, ground lead,regulator, and flow meter. You will also need tungsten electrodes, filler metal, a sheilding gas and if possible, a foot control. Your gas should be 75% argon, 25% co2. You need to reverse the polarity on the machine, as now the ground lead becomes the positve and you're stricking an arc through the ground. Once you get a puddle started, you fill the weld joint with the filler metal. It takes a little getting used to, but it's easy once you get the hang of it. It makes a very strong and good looking weld. I hope this helps. Andy [This message has been edited by speedy (edited 04-23-2002).]
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Larry Jennings Gearhead Posts: 495 From: Redwood City, Ca. USA Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 04-23-2002 03:21 AM
I've only got a tabletop welder, it's an old AC buzz box and works great as long as what you want to weld is on a flat surface. Now I figure to get a tig but there's duty cycles and amps at this'n that setting and this's all Greek to me. I don't wanna walk into a store unarmed and get sold a unit that'll rebuild the Eifel Tower but I do need enough power to burn a hole in a fender . I've seen the kits your speaking of that convert a stick to a tig, but I don't think a literal welding ignoramous like myself should try to build a welding setup. I "think" I need a turn key deal.
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speedy Gearhead Posts: 165 From: Parkersburg WV Registered: Nov 99
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posted 04-23-2002 10:13 AM
What you probably want is an inverter. They are portable and easy to use. I've seen them for as little as $400. There's several to choose from, depending on what you want to weld. Miller and Lincoln make them, along with several other companies. They are a little higher in price, but better quality products.Andy
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RickBook Journeyman Posts: 77 From: Houston, TX Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 04-23-2002 07:56 PM
Occassionaly, I need to do 'light' welding (1/8" to 1/4" plate) in my garage.Why wouldn't the cheaper arc welders work? I grew up with these things (from dirt-dobbin to laying a pretty good bead). Why wouldn't one like this one from Harbor Frieght for $100.00 (welds up to 1/4" plate)work out? HERE or http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40388 For someone that doesn't do a lot of welding, $400 is a pretty steep price. I just saw THIS also (MIG flux cored wire welder) for $100.00 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=33244 Thanks for the input.
------------------ Building 1970 Grabber, 347 EFI, AOD, 9", 6pt for strip.
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Larry Jennings Gearhead Posts: 495 From: Redwood City, Ca. USA Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 04-23-2002 08:40 PM
Rick the first one is what I have now although smaller, it's an AC buzz box or splatter welder and if you try welding under something the blob of molten metal will run down your arm however if your on top of what you want to weld it's an excelent piece. I've made many pieces for many cars with this one and the only drawbacks are flat surface only and "big" cleanup after the splatter. The second one is a mig and has it's uses and fans but I'm not one of them, it leaves a furrow like a small plowed field in the place of a pretty bead like a tig can make. I'm figuring I'll have to spend around $1500 (new) to get a welder that will do the job for sure, but before I do it'd be neat to hear from people that own one so they could give us the "if I had it to do over" poop on them. ------------------ I got this black eye when my wife said shut up and I thought she said get up!
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RickBook Journeyman Posts: 77 From: Houston, TX Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 04-23-2002 11:38 PM
Thanks for the feed back, Larry.I think I'll go with the "buzz box" (for now) and remember your comments. I just can't see paying someone to come out and weld something for me for $100 minimum when I coud've bought a little welder for the same price and have it at my disposal. Granted, it's not as nice as the pro - but as long as it gets the job done! Plus, I don't intend to go into professional welding anytime soon! Thanks again, Rick BTW, I'm gonna use your sig on other boards! funny stuff) ------------------ Building 1970 Grabber, 347 EFI, AOD, 9", 6pt for strip.
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Larry Jennings Gearhead Posts: 495 From: Redwood City, Ca. USA Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 04-24-2002 02:50 AM
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RickBook Journeyman Posts: 77 From: Houston, TX Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 04-25-2002 10:01 AM
Before I get jumped on by the guys with 40' X 100' pro or semi-pro shops, let me say I only have a two car garage and will mainly do light welding on my car (shock tower delete, exhaust, some mild steel stiffeners, etc). Mostly 1/8" (max) plate and possibly some aluminum welding later, so I didn't want to spend a fortune and have to go into the welding business to pay for it.I wound up buying a Chicago Electric from Harbor Freight ("My name is Rick Book and I'm addicted to Harbor Freight." - the first step to recovery). The price was reasonable ($250) and I believe it will suit my needs. Text taken from Harbor Freight's site. 115V (didn't want to have to run a new 60' 3 phase line to entry of garage). For mild steel, stainless steel, and aluminum. Welds with gas or perform flux cored gasless operations. Features 4 heat settings, variable speed wire-feed regulation and automatic thermal protector with warning light. Optional 7-1/2'' reel adapter lets you use 11 lb. wire reels. Welding current range: 25 to 85 amps Input: single phase 115 volts, 60 Hz Open voltage: 19 to 30 Duty cycle: 16% @ 75 amps Draws 15 amps @ 115 volts Weldable wires: .023'' to .035'' steel and stainless steel .030'' to .035'' aluminum .030'' flux-cored Dimensions: 9-7/8'' x 13-1/2'' x 17-3/4'' Shipping weight: 57 lbs. The duty cycle is the only drawback I can see. Any comments from users of this machine (before I open the box)? Thanks,
Rick ------------------ Building 1970 Grabber, 347 EFI, AOD, 9", 6pt for strip.
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RickBook Journeyman Posts: 77 From: Houston, TX Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 04-25-2002 10:10 AM
Oh yeah, the manager threw in this $3.99 welder's cap.He assured me it was a "chick magnet".....'Will update with photos of "chicks" as they become available.
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 24286 From: Saco, Maine Toys: '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Registered: May 99
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posted 04-25-2002 10:19 AM
My Lincoln AC100 was only $130, and it works fine.Looks like they call the FP100 now. "Versitile Stick Welder From Firepower - The model FP 100 stick welder from Firepower can be used for a variety of welding jobs. This light 27 lb. unit features adjustable welding output to 85 amps AC with a 15% duty cycle. Easily welds 18 gauge up to 3/16" steel. The FP 100 includes permanently installed 6' cables with attached ground clamp and stick holder, and complete instructions. Welding shield/helmet Not included."
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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip MCA Member # 47773 The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that, you got it made.
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 24286 From: Saco, Maine Toys: '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Registered: May 99
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posted 04-25-2002 10:20 AM
No hat, though. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip MCA Member # 47773 The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that, you got it made.
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RickBook Journeyman Posts: 77 From: Houston, TX Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 04-25-2002 11:45 AM
Steve,I almost bought the stick welder but a lot of my welding needs (currently) are underneath the car, requiring me to weld 'upsidedown'. I've used the stick welders before and actually was very satisfied. The few drawbacks I know of are the necessity to have a 220 outlet nearby. (I couldn't find any information on the FP100 or AC100. Is this welder operated by 110V?). Also, upsidedown welding is a "b&*%$" with those. Do you have a link to show? I might be interested in getting one of those in addition to the one I got. Thanks, p.s. I'll send you MY cap!
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 24286 From: Saco, Maine Toys: '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Registered: May 99
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posted 04-25-2002 11:51 AM
Yes it runs on 110v. I got the info {and the welder} through our link to Eastwood above.I'd like to get a mig welder too. Let me know how you like yours. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip MCA Member # 47773 The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that, you got it made.
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 24286 From: Saco, Maine Toys: '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Registered: May 99
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posted 04-25-2002 11:52 AM
P.S. You can keep the cap. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip MCA Member # 47773 The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that, you got it made.
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RickBook Journeyman Posts: 77 From: Houston, TX Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 04-25-2002 04:05 PM
Finally found it (page 2!)! Looks like a great bench top welder. At that price, I'll definetly be looking into getting one.Thanks, Rick p.s. Too late, I already mailed the cap to you. Also, expect a few visits from JW's during your dinner times. No need to thank me. [This message has been edited by RickBook (edited 04-25-2002).]
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 24286 From: Saco, Maine Toys: '70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Registered: May 99
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posted 04-25-2002 05:52 PM
quote: Originally posted by RickBook: Also, expect a few visits from JW's during your dinner times. No need to thank me.
There's a temple a few doors up on my road. They know better than to try to talk to me again!
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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open '72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip MCA Member # 47773 The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that, you got it made.
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Larry Jennings Gearhead Posts: 495 From: Redwood City, Ca. USA Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 04-27-2002 02:24 PM
I got this info from a buddy (that welds a bunch) about the different types of machines."Larry you probably want a MIG machine. They can be adjusted to work smoothly and you have the option of 'spot welding' and stopping to admire your work. That's pretty handy if your work is inverted. It does take a little practice. The advantage is that they fill gaps and are not too fussy about a little scale , dirt or paint. They are also faster. That and you don't have to hold the welding rod and operate a foot pedal. I built a trailer with a my TIG and it was a farging pain trying to organize all that stuff to put down a weld. They don't call MIG welders 'squirt guns' for nothin'. If your going to weld stainless or aluminum thats another story. A MIG is a bit limited for that, and a TIG will do it all, but not very conveniently for the rough work. That and the TIG welder is really fussy about dirt and other impurities, you pretty much have to make it a surgical operation with TIG. PS. With MIG, flux wire sucks. You really need to use gas." ------------------ No matter what's happening, there's always somebody that takes it way too seriously.
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