I could really use some input on how to build one and/or where (or which one) to buy one.

Thanks, Kirk

The round part that revolves inside another larger tube is about 4" in diameter and has a handle that can be threaded in to the inner 4" piece stopping it's revolving. This was at each end. The legs on the ground were about 5 to 6' long on both front and back. Each unit had casters and it could be moved. I actually rolled it down a tar mac driveway, turned it around and gently nerfed it back into the garage using the van. I crudely bolted the two ends together with a 2 x6. On one job I left the suspension on but they said to have everything off. The rear end and springs HAD to be removed.

Prior to raising car.(heavy hook over the door and a come-along} doing cvts. I used thinwall tubing, ends crimped and diagonally welded across the door openings. Two others were welded across. He marketed a brace but it was too pricey.

I kept doors on with strikers removed, with rebuilt hinges, to make sure the body had the right integrity. We did one side at a time.

The co. was in Oklahoma City and was called Fab Tech, I believe. The owner is long deceased. I used it on four cars, bought it used for 500 and sold it for 500. It was mainly made for 65/8 but the guy I sold it to was going to do a 69 Shelby.

It was advertised in MMonthly, each mo. with a small ad. They never gave him a well deserved story, but should have. He probably didn't want to give them a free one. OPINION. Will look through some back issues to see if I can find a pic.

It was a great tool but I realised that frames, t-boxes and floors could be done by raising car high and keeping it on it's weight. Never had a mis aligned job but it did have disadvantages. I look at the work done by the shop in MMonthly and they do not use one for frame work-at least by following their articles.

Here is the best link I could find in researching this subject for quite a while. I have built it but haven't gotten the car on it yet.

If you go with this plan be sure to make yourself a working set of plans. There are a few discrepancies in the article.

I've seen the similar article several places on the web but this seemed to be the most complete.

quote:

---

Originally posted by davids68:
http://www.mgbexperience.com/rotator/

Here is the best link I could find in researching this subject for quite a while. I have built it but haven't gotten the car on it yet.

If you go with this plan be sure to make yourself a working set of plans. There are a few discrepancies in the article.

I've seen the similar article several places on the web but this seemed to be the most complete.

HTH
David

---

Thanks David. I printed that out and read it. The stand that I had drawn up is about twice as heavy duty as that one though. I'm probably WAY over building it. The way that I had planned to make mine, you'd be able to jack the car up WITH the stand and with out taking the wheels off or putting it on jack stands. It will also have two 2" rail running the full length. Each stand will have a peice of 1" acme rod to lift the car (Acme rod is like all thread but it has a square shaped thread with about 4-5 per inch instead of 8 per inch). I'll try to scan the drawwings and post them before I begin hacking up $500 worth of steel though.

I'm planning on lifting mine with a small modification at the bottom of the rotator arm, a fabricated bracket to make use of the holes up the masts on each end, and a bottle jack. I also wasn't too impressed with just putting the wheels on the 4 ft. arm at the bottom of the main support. So I took more tube steel and made pieces to slide into the bottom of the main support and lower the bottom of the "T" along with giving it a little wider stance on the ends.

This one is for a bare shell which is the point my car is at now so I don't believe the weight will be a problem. The article said it should handle 2000 pounds and my friend said he didn't see a problem with it.

One thing you might want to consider though is having just one brace between the stands. I think it will save you a bunch of stumped toes or ankles when working on the car.

BTW I know that link for it is from an MGB site but I've seen pic's of Chevelle's, Chargers, and several other large body cars on the same design in various places on the web.

But as you said also you plan on leaving the suspension, rear end and all on the car so you'rs would need to be heavier built.

David

Just a thought but since you're palnning on leaving the suspension take a look at this site.

http://www.accessiblesystems.com/

Perhaps the tilter would be more in order. Then you wouldn't have to remove the bumper, etc..