Off the top of my head, besides basic hand tools, you'll need:

*A quality engine stand. I highly recommend a 4 wheel stand. The three wheeled stands are just too tipsy. You could rebuild an engine without one, but why would you want to?

* Bag of trash bags, to cover the engine when you are not working on it. Don't pay big bucks for an 'engine rebuilding bag' Just buy a box of heavy duty trash bags and use a new one every time you work on it.

* Engine brush cleaning kit, to scrub every inch of the engine. Moroso sells a good kit. As you wash the engine, keep WD-40 or some other oil spray and keep all machined surfaces well oil. They will flash-rust {scale} in minutes if left bare. Paint cast areas as soon as possible, for the same reason.

* A 1/2" torque wrench. A beam type is probably your best buy, unless you can afford a GOOD click type, like a Snap-On. Craftsman click types are junk. I know, I have one. The gauge type torque wrench is the best, but they are big bucks.

* A harmonic balancer puller. Look for the type that comes with a balancer installing tool, as well.

* Piston ring installation tool. Not needed, but it prevents you from scarring the piston while installing the rings.

* Band type piston ring compressor. Sleeve types are good, but band types can be used for all diameters of pistons.

* Two 6 inch lengths of 5/16" or 3/8" rubber hose to slip over the rod bolts to prevent damage to the cylinder walls and rod journals during installation of the pistons. They make fancy sleeves, but good old rubber hose works better.

* Red and Green Plasti-gauge. Your machinist will be miking everything, but you should double check everything, just to be sure.

* Feeler gauges to check rod side clearances and ring gaps.

* Seal installation kit. Not essential, but very helpful.

*Valve spring compresser. Buy or rent a good quality one, as a cheapo unit can ruin parts in half a heartbeat.

*Dial indicators are a great tool to have for many reasons, but if all you want to do is locate TDC, you can make a tool with a 6" bar stock and a bolt. Drill the two ends to match opposing head bolt holes, and drill and tap a hole for the bolt in the center. Then to locate TDC, bring up the #1 piston until it contacts the bolt, mark the harmonic balancer, then turn the crank the other way until the piston contacts the bolt again. Mark the balancer again. TDC is exactly 1/2 between the two marks.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
MCA Member # 47773

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
MCA Member # 47773

Also, does anyone rent engine hoists(cherry picker)? I don't know anyone that has one and the $200+ to buy one could be better spent on goodies for the rebuild.

Most tool rental places rent engine cranes for about $20 a day.

Steve bought a hoist a few years back. It was $200, and well spent. It has already paid for itself.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150

I like to mic everything, but good bore mics don't grow on trees
I'll second the dial indicator & magnetic base; check thrusts, TDC's, degree camshafts... worth its weight in gold

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

quote:

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Originally posted by V8 Thumper:
The dial indicator also makes setting ring & pinion lash far more accurate than the marking compound or grease smear methods

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You can't leave out the marking compound when setting up a rearend...

Both the pinion depth (adjusted by shims at the front of the case) and the position of the ring gear (adjusted by the threaded, round adjusters in the caps in an 8" or 9") have an effect on the 'pattern'.

You can adjust for the proper backlash with the side adjusters, but if the pinion depth isn't right, the pattern will be off and it will howl like a banshee in no time. (if not right away)

Even when setting the pinion depth with an indicator, the pattern still needs checked. There's a 'range' of acceptable measurements, and the correct pattern usually lies somewhere within those readings.

NEVER skip the pattern check on a rearend. There's a LOT more to it than getting the proper backlash. When in doubt, take it to someone who knows what they are doing, and insist on looking at the pattern before the unit gets installed.

Good Luck!