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Author
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Topic: Product Impression: Oxisolv by Eastwood
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 21832
From: Saco, Maine USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-09-2000 03:32 PM
   
I tried out Oxisolv for the first time today, and I was pretty pleased with it's performance.I submerged some rusty bolts I had, and after a short period of time the solution began to fizz. Thirty minutes later I removed the bolts and rinsed them in lacquer thinner and wiped them down and the bolts looked real good. They had a dull gray finish, and actually you could mistake them for new if they didn't have tool marks. You do have to clean off all paint, grease, and loose rust and scale for best results. Heavily rusted bolts require multiple dippings. The chemical is a little pricey, at $24.99 for a gallon. {I bet if you knew what the actual chemical was you could buy it for much less at a chemical supply store.} But I only used about two to four cups in a mayonnaise jar, and I cleaned about thirty 4"-5" bolts, and it is still cleaning well, so I sealed the container and I'll continue to use it tomorrow. My friend has used Oxisolv before, and he warned me about leaving hardware in it too long. He accidently left some bolts in the solution overnight, and the next day they were about 50% of their original size. You also need to respect this chemical and avoid contact with skin and eyes, etc...
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SteveLaRiviere/Webmaster -- MCA # 47773
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jimb
Gearhead Posts: 136
From: s. holland, il usa
Registered: Nov 99
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posted 11-10-2000 10:27 AM
I have also use the Oxsolve but now use something cheaper. At most building supply stores (Home Depot, Menards, etc) you can buy what is called a concrete cleaner. This is not Muriatic acid but the same thing that they use in the rust remover brand called "Navel Jelly" only in liquid form. I costs about $12-15 per gallon. You can dilute it or use it full strength.
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Tim
Journeyman Posts: 34
From:
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 11-11-2000 12:37 PM
Sounds like Phosphoric Acid. I beleive this is the active ingredient in navel jelly and some metal cleaners. I bought PPG DX 579 and mixed it 1:1 with water.
Sounds like the "concrete cleaner" might be a less expensive route to go.Tim
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 3592
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 11-11-2000 04:32 PM
It's a bit dangerous, with fumes, but I dip steel brackets, etc. in a covered plastic pail with pool acid! Yes, it's cheap and very effective. No overnight, potmetal, etc. A thorough rinse, and a spray with a phosphoric acid solution called ospho. Overnight cure and it's ready for paint. It's worked for me for years. When the solution weakens, dump in acouple lbs of baking soda and its environmentally acceptable for disposal. Acid is water soluable and can be diluted to safe standards. At about $1.70 per ga. a three gallon mix is %5.l0 Putting larger parts into a large "mud" pan it can be brushed on and allowed to sit. It must be used outdoors. Phosporic acid is in many primers and has excellent adhesian properties and acts as a metal prep. Ospho is about 8.00 per qt. and I used a 409 spray bottle.It is made by a co, called Skyco. I learned this procedure from a restoration shop several years ago. It might be unorthodox but it works us.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 21832
From: Saco, Maine USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-11-2000 05:36 PM
quote:
Originally posted by mellowyellow:
It's a bit dangerous, with fumes, but I dip steel brackets, etc. in a covered plastic pail with pool acid!
Do you mean chlorene? The same as bleach? ------------------
SteveLaRiviere/Webmaster -- MCA # 47773 Have rice for dinner, not transportation!
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 3592
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 11-12-2000 07:50 AM
Steve: Sorry I didnt't clarify. Pool acid is basically a strong muriatic acid. It is used in conjunction with chlorine to get proper ph for pools. Mine is never correct! I learned this from an old time Model A restorer. It does put out fumes and requires proper ventilation. I'll will put it up against ANY type of rust remover. Acid eats the rust and will, in time, reduce the thickness of a piece of steel. I do not use it on castings except to brush it on. I strip paint off first. Rust travels laterally on metal and crawls under paint. Some of the factory paints are tough as hell so removal is important. I have used this procedure on brackets and steel pieces. Personally, I like to do bolts on a bench grinder with a coarse wire wheel. hold ing with vise grips. As the cost of stainless as come down, in my area, I am using more stainless, and in stress areas, grade 8 bolts. Do not restore too many, anymore. Concerning primers, anything I say is my opinion only. I personally think that Rustoleum rusty metal primer is probably as effective as corrolless and less expensive. I have found a primer at Sears titled anti-rust Primer. It is gray, and by volume, is rather heaavy. No wonder!, it contains Portland cement along with other inhibiting stuff. It does a good job of sealing rusted areas. I learned about it from a house painter who uses it on steel bars. Concrete sticks like the devil! I would like to discuss this topic furthur on a thread as it is an important part of our hobby in protecting our beloved "Rustangs" but am going to a show. Later, Pete
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fordfan
Gearhead Posts: 2472
From: Walla Walla, Wa, USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 11-13-2000 03:44 PM
for proper PH in our pool we use Soda Ash.------------------
*WARNING: RATED MA for Mature Audiences only!* Joseph J Shaffer IV
Walla Walla, WA
MustangsandMore Member# 37
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Bill MacDonald
Journeyman Posts: 20
From: Chatham, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 11-15-2000 10:33 AM
I to use pool acid but would like to know where to get phosphoric acid solution call ospho. Made by a Co. called Skyco. (in USA)------------------
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