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Author
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Topic: Sandblasting/media blasting
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Diggedirt
Gearhead Posts: 116
From: Peoria, Illinois
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 10-13-2000 10:48 AM
   
Is sandblasting th best way to remove rust etc.?
Is a sand/media blaster a good investment for restoration use?
Are there any on the market that do a good job for a reasonable price? I saw one at sears-(70-80$).
Or is this whole procedure something better left to the pros?
Thanks
Frank
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72 MACH 1
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cougarlover
Gearhead Posts: 241
From: Colorado
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 10-13-2000 04:46 PM
Great question Frank, been wondering the same thing myself. My truck was a former swimmer and has terrible rust on the frame. Plus my '69 has too many coats of paint on her. Need to get rid of a few before I repaint. So come on all you paint experts, help us out.  ------------------
'67 XR7 Cougar
'69 standard Cougar
'89 F-350 4x4
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 21832
From: Saco, Maine USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 10-13-2000 05:36 PM
I really like my sandblasters. I have a spot media blaster and a blasting cabinet, and I take the gun out of the blasting cabinet and use it to do regular media blasting by sticking the siphon tube in a 5 gallon bucket full of media.It cleans very well, and leaves a porious surface that paint sticks to very well. The only down side is it is very messy, and dust and media gets everywhere. You have to be careful with sheetmetal, you can heat a panel enough to warp it. What will take you hours with sandpaper or wire wheels will take you minutes with a media blaster. Check out Harbor Freight, they have some pretty good prices. ------------------
SteveLaRiviere/Webmaster -- MCA # 47773
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cougarlover
Gearhead Posts: 241
From: Colorado
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 10-13-2000 10:59 PM
Thanks Steve, sounds like that's what I want for Christmas, gotta get these cats goin!!------------------
'67 XR7 Cougar
'69 standard Cougar
'89 F-350 4x4
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Diggedirt
Gearhead Posts: 116
From: Peoria, Illinois
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 10-14-2000 12:01 AM
Thanks Steve, I'm with couger-Christmas is coming! They want a list..I'll give them one!
A friend of mine used to do this stuff and I think he used a shop vac to do the pick-up and siphoned from there..it's been awhile since I talked to him.
Frankster
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Rob Parsons
Gearhead Posts: 174
From: Lebanon,TN
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 10-23-2000 04:30 PM
I got a sand blaster from Tips. They have blast cabinets, pressure blasters, air tools, paint guns and supplies. The pressure blasters ate the best.
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MLariviere
Moderator Posts: 2299
From: Biddeford,Me.USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 10-23-2000 08:48 PM
Just remember it makes one helluva mess when you blow stuff down. Cover whatever you don't want dirty or pitted, and wear a set of goggles and some protective clothing. I got a TYVEC monkey suit to wear when I do this. Also wear atleast a hat and earplugs {a full hood is better} and some breathing protection.------------------
Y2K Explorer XLT 4X4 4.0 auto
1995 F150 XLT 4X4 302 auto
1972 Torino 2 door 351C/C4
The kahuna with the big bitchin' ol' car!
get outta my way,IROC-Z,I'm commin'thru!
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ConvertibleKen
Journeyman Posts: 26
From: Riverside California
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 11-02-2000 03:14 PM
Boy, I've always wanted a media blaster/cabinet setup. But let me tell you a data point I got last week. My wife and I were showing at a Mustang show, and we always tour the field and I love to look thru the photo albums that the owners have chronicling the horrors and sweat they have gone thru to get to where they are.
This guy had a flawless 65 done in pale creamy yellow with a gloss black engine compartment. His photos showed that he had gutted the car, removed all big things like fenders, hood, trunk, etc , built his own rotissiere (a man after my own heart) and had rolled it onto a rental trailer and towed it to a professional media blaster who did everything for....are you ready....$450!I plan to strip my entire 70 Convertible for a repaint next year sometime, and I just can't justify doing it at home compared to $450. Check it out! ------------------
[This message has been edited by ConvertibleKen (edited 11-02-2000).]
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 21832
From: Saco, Maine USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-02-2000 06:39 PM
$450 seems tempting, but I've always felt nobody does a better job than a person working on their own car.I am never totally happy with a job done by someone else. In my own garage, with my brother Mike and me doing the work, I'd bet nobody is more thorough. {That's why we're so slow! LOL} ------------------
SteveLaRiviere/Webmaster -- MCA # 47773
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Diggedirt
Gearhead Posts: 116
From: Peoria, Illinois
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 11-02-2000 11:12 PM
I hear you Steve, there is no match for a job done right the first time.
That said, $450 is a tempting proposition.
Quality is the determining factor.
I'll have too look into this myself-at the present time I have no equipment and by the time I could get going I would probably be close to spending the $450. decisions,decisions.
frank
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72 MACH 1
Now possum free!
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 21832
From: Saco, Maine USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-03-2000 02:24 PM
Well, so far I spent $100 for the media blasting box, {which you can use the gun for regular bead blasting, by just taking it out of the box} and $30 for the spot blaster. The media is $10 for 100 lbs. ------------------
SteveLaRiviere/Webmaster -- MCA # 47773
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 21832
From: Saco, Maine USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-03-2000 02:26 PM
I think my brother paid $40 for a Sears bead blaster, and he made his own box.------------------
SteveLaRiviere/Webmaster -- MCA # 47773
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Diggedirt
Gearhead Posts: 116
From: Peoria, Illinois
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 11-03-2000 09:01 PM
Blasters are that cheap?
I thought they were much more than that...I saw them at sears but I figured it was a "basic light use" type of setup.
How much sand is needed to get going and how long does it last(before it is bad)?
I would also have to add the cost of a GOOD air compressor-that makes a difference!
Thanks for the info Steve, it is appreciated
Frank------------------
72 MACH 1
Now possum free! [This message has been edited by Diggedirt (edited 11-03-2000).]
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MLariviere
Moderator Posts: 2299
From: Biddeford,Me.USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-03-2000 09:27 PM
I am getting by fine with a 5.5hp/30 gal compressor and the sears tools. The Sand seems to be spent after the second use. I use black beauty in medium grit. You also want some sort of water trap. The sand tends to clump up with moisture. Be sure to cover what you don't want blasted. ------------------
Y2K Explorer XLT 4X4 4.0 auto
1995 F150 XLT 4X4 302 auto
1972 Torino 2 door 351C/C4
Wishing it was summer all the time here,
or I had a bigger garage!
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 3592
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 11-07-2000 12:40 AM
A few years back, I took fenders, hood, valances, etc to a media blaster. They use a plastic media and even walnut shells. They had done a 57 chev. post 2 dr. that had an expanse of bodywork, not cancer, and the guy was skilled enough to remove th paint and just lightly etch the bondo. On the rear post, between windows, there were tiny rust pinholes! These would have been missed on an average repaint. Some places will put an epoxy primer, variprime metal etch for extra but it is a good service. SOmetimes it pays to let a pro do the job.
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WK Irish
Journeyman Posts: 22
From: Albany, OR, USA
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 11-08-2000 12:16 PM
Frank:
Your basic question received some good feedback but I'd like to throw out the following idea.
You didn't indicate what you were going to be Sand/media/...blasting but if you decide for whatever reason NOT to go that route, our experience is that excellent results can be obtained with some serious wirebrushing (mechanical &/or by hand) to simply remove any loose rust then coat the bare metal AND the remaining solid rust with Zero Rust. This holds true for any part of your undercarriage: springs, floorpans, fender wells, drivelines, firewalls, etc., etc.
ZR was formulated for use on fully or marginally prepared surfaces and while "more is better", often this isn't practical or cost effective and a good hand prep job will do the job.
Check our website's FAQ and Tech Info pages for more info and the Photos section for many examples of ZR's usage.
Hope this helps.
WK Irish
See ya' on the net at www.zerorust.com
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Diggedirt
Gearhead Posts: 116
From: Peoria, Illinois
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 11-08-2000 01:07 PM
WK, I have been trying to keep up on the discussions about all forms of rust control/abatement and will use a product such as ZR on the areas that need minor touch-up work.
The work is to be done on my Mustang almost everywhere. The rust I have is more serious than that with some large areas of minor rust to go with. I am looking at sandblasting because of the amount of work that can be done in a shorter amount of time-I am not a ramrodder that wants to get it DONE for the sake of being done-I have alot of work to do that will take alot of time either way and I want to find the best route. The reality of the sandblasting method is the time/work saved. As steve put it sandblasting takes minutes instead of hours therefore the cost is worthwile. My dad also has some farm equipment that needs the rust knocked off before it can be painted so a blaster would come in handy there as well.
How does the ZR stand up in tests? I read another post(probably yours)about another product (POR-?)forming rust under the "protective" coating and it concerns me. I only wish to do this kind of work once per car if you know what I mean.
Frank------------------
72 MACH 1
Now possum free! [This message has been edited by Diggedirt (edited 11-08-2000).]
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Action Jackson
Journeyman Posts: 19
From: LB, CA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 11-13-2000 04:02 AM
Sand blasting is great. The only problems are that it is very messy and possibly damaging. I have vowed never to blast my car again unless it is a stripped shell. Years after sand blasting I still have sand in my car (sand will get everywhere). When I was younger I did a good job of pitting windows that I thought were protected. Even 15 feet away things can still get damaged. As far as media goes you can go to an abrasives shop and by just about anything and those guys will know what will work best. You can also buy sand from large Home Base/Depot stores. I would usually only buy play sand (like the type used for playpens) because it is an actual grit the other sands they sell for mixing concrete is really flaky and won?t work, not only that but it is hazardous to work with. The only draw back with play sand is that it has a slightly high moisture content, but is good when you need allot of sand for cheap. I personally only buy glass beads now, expensive but versatile. Careful when on smooth concrete because those little glass balls are like walking bananas, on leg can shoot out from under you like greased lightning . One other thing is that the area that you blast in will be contaminated greatly. My garage floor looked like the beach a couple of times. You can buy guns for about $30-$20 and they will work fine. I usually throw away the canister that they come with and just stick the hose in the bag/box of media. The compressor will cost the most of course. I agree with the other posters that most people do sloppy work but if you are truly only going to blast once and don't have much of a need to blast again I would consider taking it to a shop for blasting can turn into a fiasco.
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Amherst
Gearhead Posts: 246
From: Amherst, WI, USA
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 11-13-2000 06:59 PM
I too am trying to justify (to my wife) the purchase of a compressor and blasting equipment. Are there different media types that can be used that aren't so aggresive? I read somewhere awhile back that baking soda is being used now. The last thing I want to do is warp a panel.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 21832
From: Saco, Maine USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-13-2000 08:06 PM
For paint removal on body panels, restorers use plastic beads, or even walnut shells. Soda is easy on panels, too.------------------
SteveLaRiviere/Webmaster -- MCA # 47773 Have rice for dinner, not transportation!
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WK Irish
Journeyman Posts: 22
From: Albany, OR, USA
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 11-13-2000 11:41 PM
Frank:
I think you may have seen a post from Len Stuart's site that Steve referenced.
I try to make it a policy not to knock the competition but rather sell the positives of Zero Rust. I will say that we talk to any number of guys who have tried POR-15 and are looking for something easier & less expensive to use-which are two BIG pluses for ZR.
As I indicated above, ZR can be used in either scenario, blasted metal or not and it is effective either way. The key is to remove any loose/powdery rust and eliminate anything that traps oxygen and will continue oxidation beneath any coating.
We can beat our chests all day long about the merits of Zero Rust, but in our experience of 12+ years of marketing ZR, the best advertising we have going is from guys who try it and won't go back to "whatever" again!
WK Irish
See ya' on the net at www.zerorust.com
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