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Author Topic:   Removing rusted bolts

Posts: 255
From: Amherst, WI, USA
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 08-28-2000 01:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Amherst   Click Here to Email Amherst     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I am removing an engine from my donor vehicle, and wanted to get some advice before I proceed any further. I am having trouble with a few bolts that just wont move with a standard ratchet. Are there any penetrants that you would suggest, or should I just go get a torque wrench and put some muscle behind it. The last thing I want to do is strip the head. Any suggestions or good advice? Thanks!

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Posts: 254
From: Sterling, VA
Registered: Dec 99

posted 08-28-2000 03:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for DaveK   Click Here to Email DaveK     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
There are a number of good penetrants. PB Blaster comes to mind. Kroil is a good one, too. Your best bet is to use a 6 point socket and what I call a breaker bar. I would avoid using a torque wrench to remove any bolts. By using a 6 point socket, you'll minimize the chances of rounding one off. Also, if you can apply a little heat, either by running the engine or with a torch, sometimes that will help.

Good luck.

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Posts: 129
From: Trinidad , Colorado, USA
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 08-30-2000 12:06 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rellik74   Click Here to Email rellik74     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Don't forget good ole wd 40, soak all the bolts and let them set a while and some heat from a fine tip torch and if you use heat keep a fire extinguisher HANDY.

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Posts: 2219
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 09-05-2000 12:04 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Sometimes rounding off the head isn't the worst thing. Twice now removing head bolts in a 351 (that I had personally torqued in place about 2 years prior) I was pushing pushing pushing and then, instead of a crack and decreasing pressure, there was a snap and no pressure at all...and the sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach as you realize the bolt just busted.

When I'm tearing down an engine I use the Craftsman 1/2" drive set with the breaker bar thats about 18". Then if that doesn't work, I take a piece of conduit thats about another 2 feet and the inside diameter is just right to slide my breaker bar into. Makes for about 3 feet of leverage which really helps out...except for those two particular head bolts.

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Posts: 1190
From: Greenbrier, TN USA
Registered: Oct 99

posted 09-05-2000 11:38 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for DidgeyTrucker   Click Here to Email DidgeyTrucker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Two penetrants I've used are CRC 50 and Liquid wrench. The bolts that give me the most trouble are the exhaust manifold bolts. I've had to use a drill and drill the bolt heads off to get the manifold off, then I could grab the remaining bolt with vice grips.
My "cheater bar" is FIVE feet long! (Sounds like a contest in the making)

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Posts: 1666
From: Santa Clarita, CA
Registered: Jan 2000

posted 09-05-2000 01:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
PB Blaster is great stuff, as is Marvel Penetrating oil and Zep 45.
From my experience, WD-40 is worthless compared to these 3. WD-40 wasn't designed to be a penetrating oil, it was designed to diperse water.

-Charlie Ping
1970 Maverick Grabber
-1987 5.0L B303 roller cam/rockers
-1968 Mustang Toploader
-1977 Lincoln Versailles 9 inch w/discs
-1980 Granada Front Discs

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Posts: 33
From: Broken Arrow, OK , USA
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 09-15-2000 06:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ShawnB   Click Here to Email ShawnB     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Just a suggestion, when you put those new bolts in use an antisieze on the threads. When I assemble anything I use an antisieze on the threads and I have had fewer problems taking them back apart, even years later. They make some great high temp. antisieze for those head bolts too.

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77 Cobra

Posts: 35
From: Bladen,Nebraska
Registered: Jun 2002

posted 12-25-2002 07:12 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 77 Cobra   Click Here to Email 77 Cobra     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Another trick I found works if you can get at the bolt with a hammer,give it a couple good hits directly on the head.Sometimes that will break the rust in the threads loose.

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Posts: 6687
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 12-25-2002 08:56 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Originally posted by cpmaverick:
PB Blaster is great stuff, as is Marvel Penetrating oil and Zep 45.
From my experience, WD-40 is worthless compared to these 3. WD-40 wasn't designed to be a penetrating oil, it was designed to diperse water.

For years used Liquid Wrench. It's OK but PB Blaster is the best! IMNSHO! Have seen Bob Vila on cable ads using a special set that's designed to remove stuck screws and bolts. Of course it's easier on TV, he probably pre lubed them with Blaster! (LOL!) but it DID look interesting. These were Crapsman tools.

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Dave Gibson

Posts: 8967
From: Norfolk, Virginia, USA M&M#166 MCA#47921
Registered: Aug 99

posted 12-25-2002 06:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dave Gibson   Click Here to Email Dave Gibson     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I just got a set of those "Nut Removers" that Bob V. is advertising for Sears. Haven't had a chance to use them yet, but it's nice to know that I have them if needed. PB blast and Liquid Wrench are my two choices for pre-soaking bolts. And as stated above, I always use antiseize when assembling parts. Makes life so much easier in the long run.

Dave & Terri

Poison Ivy (Dave's)
'65 Fastback Modified 289 4V, C-4, dual exhaust, styled steel wheels, rally pac, A/C
'02 Explorer XLT, Black, 3.73:1 limited slip, class III tow package!

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