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Author
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Topic: NOT HAPPY WITH COMPANY CALLED BOLTLOCKER
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BEAR12686
Journeyman Posts: 61
From: NEW YORK
Registered: Oct 2005
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posted 07-18-2006 06:28 PM
 
i dont know if anyone has ever used boltlocker on ebay but i bought a stainless engine bolt kit that says for a 289 302 5.0 engine when i got it the water pump bolts were the wrong size three were missing and the others were too long and no 1 1/2 bolts at all i emailed him thanking him for the kit but explained to him what happened he said you didnt read the fine print i had to tell him it was for a 289 64 to 67 ( i have a 68) i offered to send back half the kit that i didnt need if he would send me the correct bolts the kit cost 38.00 with shipping he say no send him another 13.00 plus 5.00 shipping to correct this problem after 10 e mails i relize this is going know were so i thanked him and said ill let all the people on mustangs and more what a wonderfull business man you are wich i got big deal like im going to advertise on ther web site ever so keep away from boltlocker phone number 877 839 0556 [email protected] will never help out a customer hes on ebay
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 07-18-2006 06:32 PM
quote:
Originally posted by BEAR12686:
wich i got big deal like im going to advertise on ther web site ever
That's right, he won't. I have standards, you know.  ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL
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exlocal
Gearhead Posts: 1552
From: hacienda hts., CA, USA
Registered: Dec 2004
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posted 07-18-2006 11:02 PM
I've given up on Ebay. Too many rip off artists anymore.------------------
fsm
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 2814
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 07-19-2006 11:04 AM
Best bolt kit available is from ARP. I have lots of water pump bolts left over. Send me an email of what you need and I'll get them to you. My wife will be thrilled for me to get them out of the house.
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buening
Gearhead Posts: 317
From: Decatur, IL
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 07-20-2006 09:39 AM
Honest opinion, I purchase the same kit from Boltlocker for a 70 351w and half weren't the right length/size. I used the ones that i could. The ones that were missing/wrong size were thrown in a box and i took the original bolts to the hardware store and found the exact same style stainless bolts there. Any local hardware store that carries bolts will have the exact same stainless ones that you got from boltlocker, and i'm sure that is where his source is from. He just packages them in little baggies. I ground the letters off the heads and polished them up. They look quite nice now  BTW, they aren't the strongest metal so don't overtorque them. I've also found that the intake bolts and longer bolts seem to stretch alot, requiring frequent re-torquing of the bolts. FYI.------------------
1970 Grabber Blue Mach 1 H-code
1970 Fastback
2003 Torch Red Mustang
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johnmustang
Gearhead Posts: 6748
From: British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 07-20-2006 12:54 PM
quote:
Originally posted by buening:
I've also found that the intake bolts and longer bolts seem to stretch alot, requiring frequent re-torquing of the bolts. FYI.
I was always under the impression that you should not re-torque intake manifold bolts, that they (the gaskets) should be replaced. Please correct me if I am wrong (usually I am ) and explain to me why you can re-torque without affecting the integrity of the gaskets. I am always willing to learn ------------------
JOHN
65 FASTBACK 2+2...14.44 @ 107 MPH
87 TAURUS WAGON
03 F150 XLT SUPER CREW 4X4 SHORT BOX
Member: PACIFIC COAST MUSTANG ASSOCIATION
Member:Vancouver Island Mustang Association
M&M #1710
65 FASTBACK
2003 F150 XLT SUPER CREW 4X4
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 4777
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 07-20-2006 03:18 PM
Much more critical with an aluminum manifold due to its metalurgic properties vs. cast iron...
The heat cycles will expand and contrat the manifold every time you start and drive the car, causing the bolt threads to be constantly yanked back and forth, thus requiring periodic re-torquing for proper clamping force and gasket seal ------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" 12.58/110 on street tires, more to come;) All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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johnmustang
Gearhead Posts: 6748
From: British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 07-20-2006 06:45 PM
quote:
Originally posted by V8 Thumper:
Much more critical with an aluminum manifold due to its metalurgic properties vs. cast iron...
The heat cycles will expand and contrat the manifold every time you start and drive the car, causing the bolt threads to be constantly yanked back and forth, thus requiring periodic re-torquing for proper clamping force and gasket seal
So how often should they be re-torqued? What is the proper torque, about 18lbs? I have a performer RPM on my Fastback 289 and now I think that maybe I should start looking at and doing this. How many times can you re-torque with out having to change the gaskets? I also have a buddy that is just changing his stock manifold to the same one I have, in his 66 coupe 289, so I will also pass this information along to him. ------------------
JOHN
65 FASTBACK 2+2...14.44 @ 107 MPH
87 TAURUS WAGON
03 F150 XLT SUPER CREW 4X4 SHORT BOX
Member: PACIFIC COAST MUSTANG ASSOCIATION
Member:Vancouver Island Mustang Association
M&M #1710
65 FASTBACK
2003 F150 XLT SUPER CREW 4X4
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