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Author
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Topic: bolt sealer? Oil leak
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 833
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 04-26-2006 10:37 PM
   
I pulled the motor. I must be getting good. Took less than 3 hours. Anyway I have attached a pic of the rear main. Everything looks fine near as I can tell. When I checked out the bolts and the threads on the crank I could see that there is some left over sealent in there and on the bolts. I never put any sealent on the bolts when I put on the flex plate, so I am 99.9% sure that is where the leak is. I don't see anything wrong with the rear main. So my thought is to lub up the bolts (not to much) with the blue gasket sealent and put it all back together. What do you think? Can I use the blue stuff or is there something else I should use? What about using that teflon tape that one would use for plumbing? Oh and I broke my chrome oil dip stick. Anyone notice that they really don't fit or is it just me?
Richard.
making progress
------------------
rmousir
'66 Mustang Coupe
Ford Blue & white stripes
'95 302 auto
Mustang ~ 04-05
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my6T65.0
Journeyman Posts: 20
From: Ohio, USA
Registered: Apr 2006
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posted 04-26-2006 10:42 PM
Exactamundo! The bolts need sealer. With the quality of all the other chrome stuff (like the Leak-O-Matic chrome waternecks) that doesn't surprise me much.
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FSTBK65
Gearhead Posts: 365
From: Salem, Virginia 24153
Registered: May 2004
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posted 04-26-2006 11:52 PM
I hate rear main seals.
Mine is leaking too. Not bad, just enough to aggrivate me.
I am afraid of pulling the motor because one thing will lead to another and before I know it I will probably have a whole new stroker motor.------------------
65 fastback. 302, Paxton Supercharger 7PSI, Edelbrock heads and intake, comp cam, Motorsport rockers,flowtechs with cutouts, x pipe and 2.5in flowmasters. Subframe connectors and shelby traction bars. 4 speed, hurst shifter,Zoom clutch. 368hp and 378ft lbs at the wheels on pump gas. 8.01 @ 87.72 mph 1/8 mi with a 1.78 60ft.
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sprcoop
Gearhead Posts: 731
From: Tucson, AZ usa
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 04-27-2006 01:08 AM
I believe Tom Monrow suggested blue lock-tite not the blue silicone. That should seal it up and keep it from coming loose. That is what I have used and no leaks for almost 200 miles! Whoo hoo!
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swiss
Gearhead Posts: 236
From: Duluth, Ga
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 04-27-2006 08:30 AM
Richard if the motor is out I would replace the seal again. I had to twice on the last motor rebuild to get it to stop leaking. I had a small slice that was like a hair line fracture that was causing the leak. when you put the new seal in grease it with a good high temp grease also. Confirm your seal direction. You can also change the seal with the motor in the car by dropping the pan and working on the end main cap. Steve
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 833
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 04-27-2006 08:40 AM
Steve,I may do that. it is pretty cheap to do while it is out. I just put a new one in though and it looks good. Also on the '95 motor I don't think you can change the rear main by dropping the pan. Richard
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 2770
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 04-27-2006 09:01 AM
quote:
Originally posted by rmousir:
[B]....on the '95 motor I don't think you can change the rear main by dropping the pan. [B]
Richard,
What DO you have to do to change it - drop the crank? Ryan 
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 833
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 04-27-2006 09:10 AM
nope. either pull the motor or drop the trans. The seal is one piece. What a pain.Now my old '73 motor you could drop the pan and do the seal from the bottom with the old 2 piece seal. So much has changed.
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swiss
Gearhead Posts: 236
From: Duluth, Ga
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 04-27-2006 09:22 AM
Richard sorry I did not realize that you had a newer block. Sooooooooo much to keep track of now days!think of the practice you are getting
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 2770
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 04-27-2006 09:37 AM
quote:
Originally posted by rmousir:
nope. either pull the motor or drop the trans. The seal is one piece. What a pain.
Ok, but you've pulled the motor, correct? So what all do you have to do to change the one-piece seal with the engine out...?? 
(As you can guess, I've never worked on the newer one-piece oil seal blocks...) Ryan
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 833
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 04-27-2006 09:39 AM
yep. I just put in a new seal. I did not have any problems with the install etc. It is a one piece steal and rubber seal.The seal has less that 1 hour of engine run time on it and less than a mile drive time. By looking at the back of the engine I am pretty confident that the main seal is not leaking.
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indyphil
Gearhead Posts: 2844
From: Senoia, G.A. USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 04-28-2006 04:41 PM
I think my rebuild book told me to put sealant on those bolts - its supposed to be common for those bolt holes to get drilled to far in and leak.. Frightening really.BTW I have a chrome dipstick but cant get it all the way in on my new 331 engine. (no jokes please)
I guess because when I was painting the timing cover some paint got in there. I dont want to go reaming it out and getting metal shavings in the pan, so Im just leaving it halfway in there, and adding that difference to the oil line on the dipstick. Years ago on the 289 the stock dipstick tube broke off in the stock timing cover, so I used an EZ out to get it out. That worked great and the chrome replacment (that Im having trouble with now) slipped in there fine. ------------------
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 833
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 04-28-2006 06:11 PM
I think I am going to take a mustang break for a while. I pulled the motor again last week and added the blue lock tite and even a little dab of sealent at the top of the bolts. Again the rear main looks good. Put it all back together and got it running. Not a leak. Looking good. Turn the car off and go in the house. Come back out and there it is...... grrrrrr.so back in the garage and under the cover for a while. Maybe all summer. The pack says that it takes 20 min to work and 24 hours to cure. I will start it up again tomorrow but I think it is a bust and will have to be done again. good news is the leak is not as bad as before. Guess I did not do enough. GRRR. anyone want my mustang?????!!!!!
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gmliebau
Gearhead Posts: 554
From: Port St. Lucie, FL
Registered: Jan 2004
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posted 04-28-2006 06:49 PM
Ouch 
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sprcoop
Gearhead Posts: 731
From: Tucson, AZ usa
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 04-28-2006 08:08 PM
Hang in there. When I was spending every spare moment for the last 2 weeks of March and the first week of May my standard line was "66' Mustang going cheap. Some assembly required." Still spending most of my time on it but at least I get to test drive it every time I do something. It was worth it.Indyphil, I think they are making timing chain cover dip stick tube holes tighter now. My chrome dip stick tube went right in my old timing chain cover but had to be filed down ALOT to get in my new one. I don't get it.
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 833
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 04-29-2006 01:20 PM
thanks sprcoop.I will stick with it. I am going to find a better way to seal them up. As for the dip stick I used my grinder and trimmed it down. Fits now. very very tight. LOL. I figure I will pull the motor again tomorrow and get it ready for the next attempt next weeked. I found that you can get a tube of the blue tite lock that is a waxy type instead of the liquid stuff. I will try that and just for safe measures I will do the rear main again as well. I also wanted to ask, maybe I should just used the blue gasket maker on the studs. What do you think of that? Would it work? Will the studs back out? Richard.
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68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 3550
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 04-30-2006 11:36 PM
Pretty sure that I was told on here to use the blue Loctite on the flywheel bolts to keep them from leaking oil!
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Mark Ugrich
Gearhead Posts: 231
From: Waukesha, Wisconsin,U.S.A.
Registered: Jan 2006
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posted 05-01-2006 12:36 AM
This is directly from my Lincoln Mercury service manual.... "Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching bolts with oil resistant pipe sealant with teflon.D8AZ-19554-A(ESG-M4G194-A and ESR-M18P7-A) or equivalent. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange.Install and tighten the bolts in sequence (across from each other) to 102-115N.m (75-85 lb-ft)"
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John Z
Gearhead Posts: 494
From: Morgantown, WV
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 05-03-2006 03:41 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Ugrich:
This is directly from my Lincoln Mercury service manual.... "Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching bolts with oil resistant pipe sealant with teflon.D8AZ-19554-A(ESG-M4G194-A and ESR-M18P7-A) or equivalent. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange.Install and tighten the bolts in sequence (across from each other) to 102-115N.m (75-85 lb-ft)"
Glad you posted that, I was about to suggest plumber dope with teflon (not teflon tape). You can get it at home warehouse stores but I do not know if it's equivalent to the Ford specified product.
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 833
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 05-03-2006 03:45 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Ugrich:
oil resistant pipe sealant with teflon.D8AZ-19554-A(ESG-M4G194-A and ESR-M18P7-A) or equivalent.
Sorry but can I get that at my local auto parts store? Plan on taking the motor out again this weekend to get it solved. Richard
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66 fastback
Gearhead Posts: 189
From: Califon, NJ 07830
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 05-03-2006 05:41 PM
I used Loctite PST 592 Thread Sealant, you can find a small tube 0.20 Fl OZ. or the size container that will last you a lifetime, Loctite thread sealant with teflon #37546 16 Fl oz.
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Mark Ugrich
Gearhead Posts: 231
From: Waukesha, Wisconsin,U.S.A.
Registered: Jan 2006
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posted 05-03-2006 10:16 PM
Try a regular Ford dealer. they might stock it under the Ford part#. If not I think the loctite 592 is the same stuff.
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 833
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 05-12-2006 06:39 PM
I am ready to get back to this tomorrow. I called Ford and they use a type of Grey RTV sealent. They sell it for $26 a tube. I stoped at Pep Boyz and got a small tube for $6.Anyone else use this stuff for this kind of leak? I was also told recently about the teflon by someone outside of the forum. But if ford says this stuff will work then I will give it a try.
Anyone know how much to put on? I will also do a new rear main seal just to be safe. Richard.
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Mark Ugrich
Gearhead Posts: 231
From: Waukesha, Wisconsin,U.S.A.
Registered: Jan 2006
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posted 05-12-2006 11:08 PM
I've never actually used the teflon for this kind of leak. If Ford says it works then it probably does.It's an anerobic type sealer, meaning the sealer hardens in the absence of air.
I would clean the threads in the crankshaft with thinner or brake cleaner maybe even chase them with a tap. Both the threads in the crank and on the bolts need to be dry and clean. Then put a coating of sealer on the bolt threads , just enough to cover the threads.Install the bolts and if you have access to a torque wrench, torque the bolts to the Ford specs in a criss-cross pattern.I know it may seem hard to believe, but if you over torque the bolts it's possible to distort the mounting flange, which may cause the rear main to leak. Good luck!
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