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Author
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Topic: Suspension help
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lcl
Gearhead Posts: 109
From: new waterford oh
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 12-01-2005 03:53 AM
   
Hi all.I'm going to work on my front end suspension over this long cold winter and am looking for advice, comments, opinions and tips. The Mustang has been sitting since '92 and I'm going to replace all ball joints, bushings, sway bar end links etc. My questions are;
1) In what order should I do this,
2)What kit would be the best (if any)and
3)Where to use rubber and/or polyurethane?
It's a 67 vert, and I want it to be just a weekend sunny day driver, no mods. Thanks in advance for any input.
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68mustang351w
Gearhead Posts: 486
From: San Diego, Ca
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 12-01-2005 10:27 PM
1) Why not all at the same time ?
2) I think Mustangs Plus has a kit that covers most of these items and is suppose to save you money.
3) Depends what you have in mind for the car. POly is going to be a bit more harsh than rubber but if you are after better handling and maybe a stiffer ride, why not go comepletely poly (except for strut rod, always use rubber there)Hope that helps... David F>
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 2480
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 12-01-2005 11:18 PM
I installed the deluxe kit from Mustangs Plus on my 69. All rubber. I also installed their steering kit. All rubber. For spings, I installed NPD's contour coils and I also added their heavy duty export brace. I only drive my car on the street and I can honestly say that my suspension and steering is as tight as a gnat's @ss. When we were doing the paint/body work, I installed a set of 69 GT leaf springs from NPD. I'm sure this helps.
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lcl
Gearhead Posts: 109
From: new waterford oh
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 12-02-2005 03:38 AM
Thanks, any info I get helps (learning as I go). Thanks again!
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Jake11
Gearhead Posts: 207
From: Banning,Ca,USA
Registered: Oct 2005
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posted 12-03-2005 05:30 AM
The 3 things that wear and mess up your
driving are Idler arm, Upper ball joints,
and Strut rod bushings. Look real close at
your upper control arm mounts for cracks.
This is pretty common, and can cause some
problems. Do the "Shelby" drop, and get a
larger front sway bar, and you can have a
lot of fun. (>:
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lcl
Gearhead Posts: 109
From: new waterford oh
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 12-03-2005 09:03 AM
Excuse my ignorance, but what is the "Shelby drop"?  I never thought of checking the control arm mounts for cracks, thanks Jake. 
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 778
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 12-03-2005 09:30 AM
you can google shelby drop and get lots of info. Basically it drops your control arms so you have better cornering. I have yet to do it but it is on the list. The cost is almost nill and it is a great mod.I would also do the front coils, front sway bar, a monte carlo bar, new shocks, new leafs in the back. Drop the car at least 1" all the way around. I did the 620 coils in the front (droped about 1 1/2 " and Standard eye 4.5 leafs in the back but I am adding a 2" drop block in the back. The 1" front sway bar should be plenty and that will come after christmas. I have new monroe shocks and I added a monte carlo bar. Rides much nicer. There is a lot more you can do if you are into it. Check out mustangs plus and get their catalog. That has lots of info. I have other info on the shelby drop so if you need it and the "blue print" just email me. welcome Richard
------------------
rmousir
'66 Mustang
Ford Blue & white stripes
302 auto
Mustang ~ 04-05
SOON TO HAVE A NEWER '95 HO
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Green68
Journeyman Posts: 33
From: San Antonio, TX, USA
Registered: Aug 2005
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posted 12-04-2005 10:43 AM
I have a related issue. I just replaced ball joints, idler arm and tie rod ends on my '68. Discovered there is a lot of play in the power steering where the pitman arm connects to the PS.I bought the ball stud kit that connects the pittman arm to the PS control valve. My question is; can this be replaced on the car? The manuals all describe removing the PS control valve from the car and then disassembling it completely. Is this necessary or can I just replace the ball stud while it's on the car? Not that I'm lazy, but it is not leaking PS fluid and I know these things are prone to that. I don't want to disturb it if I don't have to. Thanks. ------------------
'68 302 2v C4
All stock ragtop
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DidgeyTrucker
Gearhead Posts: 1681
From: Greenbrier, TN USA
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 12-04-2005 11:30 AM
Is there play when the motor is off or running. When the motor is running and the pump is pumping the ball fitting should be tight. With the motor is off and there is no pressure on the system there could be a little play. That's normal.Tracy
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Green68
Journeyman Posts: 33
From: San Antonio, TX, USA
Registered: Aug 2005
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posted 12-07-2005 02:39 PM
There is a lot of play with the motor off and the car is jacked up. With the motor running it seems a little tighter. When driving I can move the wheel a couple of inches each way with no steering response.
I already have the kit to replace the ball stud, just want to know if I have to take the whole PS valve off the car to do it.Thanks, Mike ------------------
'68 302 2v C4
All stock ragtop
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TOPDowNMUSTANG
Gearhead Posts: 217
From: Kennett Square, PA
Registered: Oct 2005
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posted 12-07-2005 02:55 PM
I got the Mustangs Plus kit for my '73 (rubber). I came with everything for the front supsension rebuild except for springs, but I wanted stock height/rate springs anyway, which I got from Glazier's Mustang Barn near here.Complete upper and lower control arms
Spring perches
Spring Isolators
Strut rod bushings
Sway bar bushings and links I think the kit was worth it. ------------------
'73 Convertible, 351C 2V
'91 LX Convertible 5.0
Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club
"The best things in life are free, but the really kick-a** things cost a fortune."
My Site
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Jake11
Gearhead Posts: 207
From: Banning,Ca,USA
Registered: Oct 2005
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posted 12-08-2005 03:58 AM
Get another to turn the wheel back and
forth so you can look at the steering and
see where it's got lost motion, or play.
Have it running, as the control valve is
pretty loose with the engine off.
Look at the spring towers for cracks. The
upper A-arms can move around and cause a lot
of play in the steering too. When all the
steering stuff on these cars is right, they
drive pretty damn good.
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