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Author Topic:   Thermostat question
wrest65
Journeyman

Posts: 2
From:
Registered: Nov 2005

posted 11-14-2005 08:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for wrest65     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
First Mustang...First question...(not much experience, but interested in learning)...
I just picked up a '65 Mustang, with what I believe to be a '70 302 (cammed) engine...Initially I ended up with a leak in the radiator which was replaced...Next, experienced alot of "water" pouring out of overflow hose and a "boiling/slushing" sound after turning the car off...Running without the thermostat everything seemed to work fine...After replacing the thermostat with the OEM 195 degree thermostat I experienced the same overflow and "boiling/slushing" problem...Once again, I removed the thermostat and everthing has been running fine since...Has anyone had a similar experience?...Can anyone suggest where to go from here?...Would a lower rated thermostat make a difference?...If not, what else might I look into?...I look forward to suggestions...Thanks!!!

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Scott H
Gearhead

Posts: 1038
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005

posted 11-14-2005 10:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scott H   Click Here to Email Scott H     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Welcome to M&M! All questions are welcome, remember that someone else can also learn from your experience.

A thermostat should be installed to slow down the coolant rushing thru the engine. If it goes thru too fast it doesn't have time to pick up the heat and carry it off to the radiator.

My suggestion would be to review your thermostat installation. If you install it backwards, it won't open and would cause the symptoms you describe.

Also check the radiator cap. Most auto parts stores should be able to test it for you. It should be able to hold 13 pounds of pressure.

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lcl
Gearhead

Posts: 109
From: new waterford oh
Registered: Mar 2005

posted 11-15-2005 03:20 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for lcl   Click Here to Email lcl     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Welcome to M&M. I'm new to this also, and believe Scott when he says others can learn from your experience. I've learned a ton by just reading older posts and I've come across questions that I have myself and have found them to be answered. Re-check your installation, when I replaced mine the older one that was in there had not been properly seated (it had slid down).

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66 fastback
Gearhead

Posts: 170
From: Califon, NJ 07830
Registered: Oct 2003

posted 11-15-2005 07:40 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66 fastback   Click Here to Email 66 fastback     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Welcome, I experienced the same problems when I first put my car back on the road. I have since corrected this problem by doing these two things.

I drilled a small (1/8) hole thru the flange of the thermostat and as I installed it, I made sure this hole was at the 12 o'clock position. This way any trapped air would be able to escape.

The second thing I did was to loosen the temp sender with the motor running and the radiator cap off. I used the sender as a bleeder screw to let any trapped air escape. The level of coolant in the radiator dropped and I had to add more to fill it back up. Eventually coolant began to appear around the threads of the sender, I snugged it back in place and the problems you described ended.

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Dreamcometrue
Gearhead

Posts: 691
From: New-Brunswick,Canada
Registered: Apr 2004

posted 11-15-2005 08:12 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dreamcometrue   Click Here to Email Dreamcometrue     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Welcome to M&M
Rino

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buening
Gearhead

Posts: 247
From: Decatur, IL
Registered: Mar 2005

posted 11-15-2005 08:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for buening   Click Here to Email buening     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I suspect you installed it backwards. What did your temperature gauge read when you heard the boiling/sloshing?

------------------
1970 Grabber Blue Mach 1 H-code
1970 Fastback
2003 Torch Red Mustang

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minnesotamustanger
Journeyman

Posts: 19
From: Hutchinson, Minnesota
Registered: Apr 2005

posted 11-15-2005 09:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for minnesotamustanger     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Along with the other good ideas, I would put a 160 or 170 stat in there. There is really no reason to have a 195 stat unless you are looking for heat out of the heater system. If I recall, the original from the factory was about a 180.

Mike

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4692
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 11-15-2005 10:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ditto that... carbed motors don't need near that much (195*) heat. Higher operating temps are required for late model computer controlled emissions systems.

------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

12.58/110 on street tires, more to come;)

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

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Jake11
Gearhead

Posts: 207
From: Banning,Ca,USA
Registered: Oct 2005

posted 11-15-2005 11:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jake11   Click Here to Email Jake11     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

Have you flushed out the block real good?
If not, the radiator is probably plugged.
The thermostat can come out for testing.
It's in there so your heater works. Leave
it out and the engine runs too cold. Take
the thermostat out and run it and see what happens. If it still heats up, shut it off
and feel the radiator with your hand. Is it
hot the same all over?

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