Why is that? What does the 270S give you over the 270H? Is it something you can quantify or something you just like better?

You may need to adjust the lash a few times during the first 1000 miles as everything is seating in, following that it's at oil change intervals. You'll find that if everything is spot-on, they move very little if at all.

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

12.58/110 on street tires, more to come;)

quote:

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Originally posted by sigtauenus:
Is it something you can quantify or something you just like better?

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Yes and yes

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

12.58/110 on street tires, more to come;)

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oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

BIG Boss hood scoop
My Pics

quote:

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Originally posted by V8 Thumper:
Yes and yes

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You had to know that I was going to come with how do you quantify it? 2-3 HP on the dyno with tuning? .05 seconds on the 1/4 with tuning?

As long as you use polylocks, the lash won't move much at all. More often than not, the variences in lash you'll see in going over the valves will be your own... as a person has to be very careful when doing this. If the lobe isn't 100% on its base circle, the lash will be off.

I ALWAYS set the lash, and place a small piece of paper towel in each rocker as I go. When I'm done, I go back and re-check each one.... taking the paper towel pieces out as I go. When all the bits of towel are gone, I'm done. Chances are, when rechecking, I'll find a couple rockers that weren't quite right.

To set the lash:

I'll set the feeler gage between the rocker and valve tip, tighten the rocker down against it finger tight. Then, back the adjuster off around 1/8 turn. Loosely tighten the set screw down against the rocker stud. Then, tighten the polylock down until the lash is right.

Backing off the polylock a little and running the setscrew down before doing the final tightening really locks things in tight.

Hotrod 289/302's EASILY rev to the point where a solid cam makes a significant power difference. Plus, solids will make more power across the entire powerband than an equivalent hydraulic. Hydraulic lifters push on a cushion of oil, which creates its own 'lash' and hinders initial valve action.

Sometimes hydraulic cams will have a mystery 'tick' that will not adjust out, and will never go away. They can be caused by a number of problems, but you won't have that with a solid.

Good Luck!

Go solid!

http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/

I love the term, "HOOD HACKERS DELIGHT"

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oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

BIG Boss hood scoop
My Pics

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oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

BIG Boss hood scoop HOOD HACKERS DELIGHT!
My Pics

I have a set of 289 heads with stainless 351W valves, hardened seats, new valve guides, screw in studs, Comp springs matched for the 270S (been thinking 270S for awhile now), and push-rod guide plates. When it was all said and done I could have gone with an aftermarket set of heads for the same price, but there is always fun in running something of your own design.

Also have a C9OX intake (similar to early Shelby intakes), and a Holly 725 Shelby replacement carb. Probably overkill on the carb.

As for the bottom end, I'm still undecided. I'm debating between the FRPP stock 5.0 short block for 1200 bucks and put in the 270S, or the FRPP 347 stroker for 3100 bucks with 270S or maybe bump up to the 282S. If I go with the stroker, then I probably don't have enough breath in my heads, so I'm hesitant to go that route with them. 28 or 50 oz imbalance is moot, whichever it turns out being I'll put the correct parts on. I have a billet steel 28 oz flywheel already which would bolt up to the 347, but then again, that's a lot of dough to sink into a fair weather/Sunday driver engine, and I can buy a lot of other parts if I go with the stock 5.0 short block.

Either set-up will get some ceramic coated headers.

The 289 heads have smaller combustion chambers than the aftermarket 302 heads, or even stock 302 heads, so I'll have higher compression without having to use pop-up pistons.

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oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

HOOD HACKERS DELIGHT!
My Pics

quote:

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Originally posted by n2oMike:
Sometimes hydraulic cams will have a mystery 'tick' that will not adjust out, and will never go away. They can be caused by a number of problems, but you won't have that with a solid.

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I've run into this before, hence the desire to follow MoneyMaker's adice and go solid.

Currently working on a 270s install for my 66 GT A-code coupe. Gonna rump better than a stock HiPo! Balanced, port-matched, better cam, electronic ignition, tri-y's, C90X style intake, roller tip rockers. Topped off with a real sweet 4100 carb.