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Author Topic:   289 eating oil
craigber
Gearhead

Posts: 125
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 11-01-2005 08:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for craigber   Click Here to Email craigber     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
1965 block; 1967 2V intake...4 speed....starts and runs fine...no missing...no blue (rings)...no white (intake)....nothing....but this engine eats oil...PCV system checked and seems fine...doesn't drip or leak oil....coolant a bit dirty but doesn't look contaminated with oil (shouldn't mix with aqueous coolant)...plugs are grey-white...where can oil go that i am missing?

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4692
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 11-01-2005 09:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Valve stem seals

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

12.58/110 on street tires, more to come;)

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

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craigber
Gearhead

Posts: 125
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 11-01-2005 10:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for craigber   Click Here to Email craigber     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
thanks....and what is the easiest way to put new ones on....do i have to pull the heads?

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Scott H
Gearhead

Posts: 1038
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005

posted 11-02-2005 12:09 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scott H   Click Here to Email Scott H     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Valve stem seals is a good thought.

Take off the valve covers and look. Sometimes you see little broken chunks of the seals sitting on top of the head between the valve springs.

You can change the seals with the heads on the engine. You will need a way to keep the valves closed, either by introducing compressed air into the cylinder or by packing rope in thru the spark plug hole. Then you need to remove the rocker arm and compress the spring (with a lever-type compressing tool). With the spring compressed you can remove the valve keepers and spring retainer, then slowly release and remove the spring. Change out the seal, put it back together, and move on to the next one.
When you are ready to do it, ask for more detailed step-by-step directions. There's a few tricks to make it easier and a couple things to watch out for.

Might take 2-3 hours total, depending on your ability and learning curve. You might also have to invest in the compressor tool, but overall, the whole job with tools and parts should cost less than $100 and be done in a day. Very worthwhile.

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sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3406
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 11-02-2005 08:03 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Um, while he didn't specifically mention valve stem seals in the original post, if it was the valve stem seals, wouldn't he get a puff of smoke on start-up? As opposed to a puff of smoke on acceleration which would indicate rings?

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craigber
Gearhead

Posts: 125
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 11-02-2005 08:18 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for craigber   Click Here to Email craigber     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
hi
am ready to do it this weekend....reread the posts about rope and air...i rebuilt my 351C on my picnic table 3 summers ago so i have done these before with heads off...have a compressor...so looking for the simple way....i don't get blue on startup....at least not that i can tell...no puffs of blue driving.... should i get head and intake gaskets just in case i get in there and it is possibly a bad head gasket....thanks for all the help

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craigber
Gearhead

Posts: 125
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 11-02-2005 06:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for craigber   Click Here to Email craigber     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
so am reading about stem seals and it seems i should be seeing blue smoke after idling and hard takeoff...as well as on startup, etc....nothing....no blue....some carbon out the back at high revs under load (uphill) but now i am questioning the stem seals...anywhere else the oil can go or can it burn so slightly as to be invisible....this thing is eating about a quart every hundred miles but drives just fine..no miss...no hard start....no trouble except for being so oil hungry

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sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3406
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 11-03-2005 08:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by craigber:
some carbon out the back at high revs under load (uphill)

Sounds like rings to me...but don't think that accounts for a quart every 100 miles though.

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4692
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 11-03-2005 10:50 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sigtauenus:
a quart every 100 miles though.


I missed that

There's definetely something screwey going on. At that consumption rate, the spark plugs shoudld be very heavily oil deposited.

To accurately find the problem, a leak down test is required. The tester is available at Summit or Jegs and you need an air compressor. Or, any competent professional mechanic should have a leak down tester in his toolbox

------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

12.58/110 on street tires, more to come;)

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

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exlocal
Gearhead

Posts: 1121
From: hacienda hts., CA, USA
Registered: Dec 2004

posted 11-03-2005 10:52 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for exlocal     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What type and weight of oil are you using? If you do a lot of freeway driving, you may not see a trail of smoke. My stang smokes a little on startup and also occasionally when I get on it, but only use a quart in about a months worth of driving. I think I'm changing to a heavier single weight oil and stop using the multi weight.

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reliving youth

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Jake11
Gearhead

Posts: 207
From: Banning,Ca,USA
Registered: Oct 2005

posted 11-03-2005 06:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jake11   Click Here to Email Jake11     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

Take off a valve cover and look with a
good light. Are the oil drain holes in the
ends of the head open so the oil can drain
back down? Look at the valvesprings. With
a good light you can usually see the seals.
They are little rubber umbrellas, most of
the time, unless they been modified. Are
they all cracked looking? Take a looksee.

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craigber
Gearhead

Posts: 125
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 11-03-2005 07:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for craigber   Click Here to Email craigber     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
hi...i have valve cover gaskets and plan on looking as soon as the rain stops (no garage)...i am now looking at the PCV system...if looks like it is hooked up different than most other 289 systems....mine has PCV valve on driver side oil cap and hooked to carb base plate...passenger side valve cover has breather tube to air filter....i think other 289s have the PCV valve on passenger and breather on driver side...would this make any difference? is there any directionality to the air flow...i am thinking my hookup is causing my problems somehow....anyone??

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fred
Gearhead

Posts: 142
From: berea ky
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 11-03-2005 07:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for fred   Click Here to Email fred     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
No the hook up does not make any difference which side the pcv and breather are in, but you might also want to check the valve cover with the pcv someone may have removed the oil deflector under the pcv, if so she will drink oil.

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Robert K
Gearhead

Posts: 706
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 11-07-2005 09:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Robert K   Click Here to Email Robert K     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yes, Absolutely check to make sure your valve covers have the baffles in place. Without baffles, it will consume oil at an unbelievable rate. Let us know what you find.

------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp

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rmousir
Gearhead

Posts: 778
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003

posted 11-07-2005 06:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rmousir   Click Here to Email rmousir     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Robert K:
Yes, Absolutely check to make sure your valve covers have the baffles in place. Without baffles, it will consume oil at an unbelievable rate. Let us know what you find.


Sorry to jump in here. What are baffles?

If this is your valve spring seals they are pretty easy to do. i did them on my wifes jeep. She had no idea that it was smoking becasue it was very faint. I saw it following her one day. now i did wait until it was pretty apparant before I changed them. using air to close the valves is really easy if you have a compressor. You can get a adapter that will screw in your spark plug hole and you can blow air in that way, if you have a air compressor.

Richard.

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rmousir
'66 Mustang
Ford Blue & white stripes
302 auto
Mustang ~ 04-05

SOON TO HAVE A NEWER '95 HO

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Robert K
Gearhead

Posts: 706
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 11-07-2005 08:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Robert K   Click Here to Email Robert K     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The baffles are inside the valve covers an are no more than a restrictor plate covering the hole where the breather or PCV valve inserts. The keep the engine vacuum from literally sucking the oil out of the engine. Ask me how I know.....

------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp

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craigber
Gearhead

Posts: 125
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 11-08-2005 05:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for craigber   Click Here to Email craigber     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
seems i have it fixed...high pressure oil leak out the back of the pan...would blow a bit out when i run it hard (always) but no drip in the driveway....snugged all bolts down and all seems good....just gonna keep a eye on it over the next week...and yep i got the baffles in the covers

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Jake11
Gearhead

Posts: 207
From: Banning,Ca,USA
Registered: Oct 2005

posted 11-08-2005 08:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jake11   Click Here to Email Jake11     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

Is the oil evaporating before it hits the
driveway? Could it be one of those "oil thief's". Have you seen any straws in the
sump? I've heard of this before. I would
check real close. A quart in 100mi. is got to be expensive. How well do you know your
neighbor?

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craigber
Gearhead

Posts: 125
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: Sep 2000

posted 11-09-2005 12:55 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for craigber   Click Here to Email craigber     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
lol....my neighbor drives a vette and probably doesn't even know how to add oil to his car...strictly dealer work for him....just getting to know this engine so will let you know how things progress....

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