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Author
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Topic: Replacing panels with car on un level ground ?
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Snake_Eyes
Journeyman Posts: 71
From:
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 09-02-2005 03:49 AM
   
Hello, has anyone every replaced panels with there car not being level ? Like outer rockers,or quarter panels ? Better to try and level the car off as best I can first ? would not be 100% due to the way the driveway was built Thanks [This message has been edited by Snake_Eyes (edited 09-02-2005).]
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ddenton749
unregistered
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posted 09-02-2005 12:06 PM
How "not level" are you talking about. I guess there is the potential for the body to rack in strange ways when you start cutting parts out, but having it jacked up on a non-level surface sounds just plain dangerous.------------------
'73 Convertible, 351C 2V
'91 LX Convertible 5.0
Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club
"I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be."
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Snake_Eyes
Journeyman Posts: 71
From:
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 09-03-2005 12:54 AM
Thanks for the reply, ground is un level, as in if I put it in neutral, it will roll, guess its kind of a gradual slope ?. Need to use the car as a daily for a while, think I might just brace, weld in the knew panels, take it to a frame machine when done to check, and hope for the best, *L*. Don't think I could jack it up much, as it would slide maybe. Just looking for advice or opinions if nothing else.
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 7145
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 09-03-2005 09:46 AM
Old saying: Confucious say-man who lay woman on hill, not on level. Think he also meant Mustangs, too! LOL!
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74merc
Gearhead Posts: 1268
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 09-05-2005 11:13 PM
as much fun as body panel welding is in perfect conditions, there's no way I'd try it with the weight unevenly distributed.You don't want to get in a rush either... If you can get it up on stands, raise the back a bit more than the front so the car sits level... and I'd put the stands under the suspension so the car is sitting correctly.
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Snake_Eyes
Journeyman Posts: 71
From:
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 09-06-2005 04:54 PM
Taking a look at it today, seems that I might be able to get it close to level, by just raising the front end up a bit. By the way is any one familiar with the quarter panels from Sherman & Associates Inc ? Do they fit nice ? good quality ?, Not really related, but any one got some info on those drip rail replacement parts that mustang unlimited sells ? anyhow thanks for the replies[This message has been edited by Snake_Eyes (edited 09-07-2005).]
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74merc
Gearhead Posts: 1268
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 09-08-2005 01:08 AM
heh, sorry. I had a picture in my head of a car driving uphill on the driveway... lolbut yea, I'd definately get it as close as I could and keep the weight on the suspension parts. I guess the biggest thing is keeping it completely still until you are done welding. If jackstands are under body lift points or the suspension either way, on the tires, whatever, as long as it doesn't change before you get the parts fitted and stitched for the most part, you should be ok. I'm working on one door, already finished a fender and hoping not to find any more rust. Hope in one hand... and it never fits perfectly anyway. I used my replacement pieces for the outline of the cut, then cut about a 16th inside the line for a good fit. Still not quite right... could be I can't cut a straight line when its 54 inches long over a curved surface, I dunno...
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Snake_Eyes
Journeyman Posts: 71
From:
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 09-11-2005 11:33 AM
Haven't really took out anything from the car other than interior, and out side trim,etc. Should help keep everything together. I know how it is about finding rust, this car has allot of it, I seen parts cars in better shape then this. Keep putting this project off, mainly because of the work it will take. Might just mess with it, un till I find another shell to swap my parts over too, just need to find a place that sells 6 cylinder coupe shells, but might be fun, because of how rusty it is, I can customize the heck out of it, with out worrying about resale value. Any one got links for drip rail repair ? Hand held shears, or sawzall with a short blade seems to work for bigger areas. What are you using to cut your panels ? Any how guys thanks for the replies to the post[This message has been edited by Snake_Eyes (edited 09-11-2005).]
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74merc
Gearhead Posts: 1268
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 09-11-2005 01:03 PM
I'm using a die grinder air tool with a 3/16 x 3inch blade.Any larger or smaller goes through blades too quickly on body panels. What I've found, work at it, cut a groove, then work the groove until it cuts through, while keeping the groove a little bit longer than what you are actually cutting through. Takes a while, but the blades last much longer than just digging in and cutting the whole time, cleaner cut, straighter line, etc. Definately want goggles, maybe a facemask. It got too hot here for the facemask, but I wind up blowing blade and metal dust out of my nose for a day or two...
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