|
Author
|
Topic: Toploader Disassembly
|
Robert K
Gearhead Posts: 705
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000
|
posted 08-30-2005 09:51 AM
   
My toploader was leaking badly so I have decided to replace the seals and gaskets in it. I have the 65 Mustang Shop Manual as a guide for the disassembly but it seems to be lacking a bit in clarity of the instructions. I've removed the front bearing cover, rear housing and the 3/4 and 1/2 shift rods. I'm having trouble removing the input and output shafts so I can get to the reverse fork and shift rods. I see that there are 2 retaining rings at the front and rear but removing those doesn't seem to free it up. Does anyone know of better disassembly instructions anywhere on the internet or can someone guide me from here ?------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp
IP: Logged |
wadeb3
Gearhead Posts: 146
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Registered: Jul 2004
|
posted 08-30-2005 11:22 AM
Robert,
I'm afraid I won't be of much help, but I'm taking apart some of my Toploader as well and have gotten some pretty good adivce from the guy that runs this site: http://www.4speedtoploaders.com/
Let me know what you find out. Good luck!
------------------
Wade
'67 A-code Fastback "Well-weathered leather
Hot metal and oil
The scented country air
Sunlight on chrome
The blur of the landscape
Every nerve aware"
IP: Logged |
n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 2694
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
|
posted 08-30-2005 11:49 AM
The bottom 'cluster' gear needs dropped before the input and main shafts can be removed.The big shaft (I believe it is 7/8 inches) needs driven out. Then the cluster will drop. Its bearings are loose, and will fall out. They will need held in place by some thick grease upon re-assembly. You can use a 7/8" wooden dowel rod in the cluster to help hole them. It will be driven out by the real shaft when it is installed. This will be after re-installing the top gears/shafts. Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
IP: Logged |
Robert K
Gearhead Posts: 705
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000
|
posted 08-30-2005 01:05 PM
Ok Mike, thanks for the help. I drove out the bottom shaft with a brass punch which released the input shaft for removal. The main shaft can now be taken out but the large rear bearing does not allow enough clearance for the whole shaft assembly to be removed from the top. I'm sure the rear bearing needs to be removed but I'm unsure how to remove it without damaging it. Is there a special tool for this or is there a technique for using normal tools? As a side note, I was going to just replace the seals and gaskets but unfortunately you still have to pretty much completely disassemble the entire transmission to do it. Should I go ahead and get the complete rebuild kit and replace everything 'while I'm at it' ? The transmission shifted fine before so I didn't see any need to replace things that were currently working. ------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp
IP: Logged |
68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 2968
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
|
posted 08-30-2005 01:42 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Robert K:
Should I go ahead and get the complete rebuild kit and replace everything 'while I'm at it' ? The transmission shifted fine before so I didn't see any need to replace things that were currently working.
I was going to just replace the seals also but figured that I should just go through it with the rebuild kit since it would be apart.
IP: Logged |
n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 2694
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
|
posted 08-30-2005 01:45 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Robert K:
The main shaft... I'm sure the rear bearing needs to be removed but I'm unsure how to remove it without damaging it. Is there a special tool for this or is there a technique for using normal tools?
I've always taken them down to the smalltown local Ford dealer. They have a special tool for pulling it. That long shaft sure gets in the way! You might be able to find a way to pull it off... Maybe someone has a 'plan B' quote:
I was going to just replace the seals and gaskets but unfortunately you still have to pretty much completely disassemble the entire transmission to do it. Should I go ahead and get the complete rebuild kit and replace everything 'while I'm at it' ? The transmission shifted fine before so I didn't see any need to replace things that were currently working.
If I'm going to take one apart, I'll go ahead and rebuild it, as a complete rebuild kit (minus the gears) is around $175. Dan Williams Toploaders has good deals on rebuild kits. You can also get higher quality 'roadrace' bearings. Their syncros are also BRONZE like the originals, and not the cheap brass units. The guy is a treat! He's open noon til' midnight. He'll be glad to answer ANY questions. He'll probably talk your leg off. His kits also come with COMPLETE rebuilding instructions.  http://www.toploadertransmissions.com/ Most units will need a rebuild kit and a 2nd gear. Some will need a 3rd. Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220 [This message has been edited by n2oMike (edited 08-30-2005).] [This message has been edited by n2oMike (edited 08-30-2005).]
IP: Logged |
Robert K
Gearhead Posts: 705
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000
|
posted 09-10-2005 05:43 PM
I purchased a master rebuild kit from ToploaderHeaven.com and I have never been more please with anything that I've purchased for my Mustang. The kit comes with all the special tools you need to do the rebuild and a CD with all the instructions and pictures. When I talked to Mark at Toploader Heaven on the phone, I thought he was too good to be true. He is absolute GOLD ! I have never rebuilt a transmission and was having doubts about doing it but after talking to Mark, he told me it really wasn't hard at all. I called him several times during the rebuild process to make sure of some details and ask some silly questions but he always cheerfully answered my questions and treated me like I was the only person that mattered. He is a goldmine of information on rebuilding toploaders and installing them too ! If I ever need any more parts or information, this is the guy I'm going to talk to and order parts from. Here's his website, www.toploaderheaven.com
He gets my absolute highest recommendation for parts and unbelievable customer service !------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp
IP: Logged |
n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 2694
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
|
posted 09-10-2005 09:16 PM
Cool...I was looking at the 'special' tools supplied... but the only special tools you NEED are the snap ring pliers and something to remove the front and rear main bearings. (neither of those are included, although he does make a snap ring tool recommendation) Did you ask about how you should remove those pressed on front and rear main bearings? You can't get at them with a regular bearing remover, as the bearings are installed over a long shaft and are set into the case where you can't get behind them anyway. The bearings are the trick. Let me know if he has a clever way of removing them. I've always taken them down to the local Ford garage, and they've removed them for me for free or close to it. (small town) I'm curious about the bearing removal. Let me know something! Thanks! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
IP: Logged |
Robert K
Gearhead Posts: 705
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000
|
posted 09-11-2005 02:16 PM
Basically, to remove both the front and rear bearings, you keep the large snap ring installed and remove the small one and use the tranny case to hold the assembly while you use a large hammer and block of wood to drive the shaft out of the bearing. Works like a dream. The front bearing is installed using a small amount of heat from a hairdryer or like I did barely waving a propane torch over it. It fell right on. There is a special bearing driver tool in the kit to drive the rear bearing on. The tools in the kit are simplistic but they all work superbly and easily. Yes, you could make every tool in the kit if you wanted but for someone like me who has never rebuilt a transmission it was nice already having the R&D on the tools done for you. The tool to install the rear bushing is simple but extremely effective and without it, you'll probably tear something up trying to drive it in. I'm telling you all that this kit and Mark at Toploader heaven are the way to go when rebuilding your toploader.
If you need more details on how to remove and install the front and rear bearings, let me know and I'll email you the exact instructions.------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp
IP: Logged |
Mustangsandmore Forums
