Author
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Topic: Anti-Climatic Revisited
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traumastang Journeyman Posts: 41 From: Palmyra, MO, United States Registered: Jun 2005
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posted 08-20-2005 04:58 AM
Back again,Well the shop called me today and said they got my mustang started and idling pretty decent, but (and this may be a big one) they said there was a lot of top end clatter (my new lifters). The mechanic said he checked the oil pressure and it was getting oil up to the top end. He didn't bad-mouth the guy I had replace the cam but he did say that he didn't change the oil (even though I took 10 quarts and 2 filters out there for him to do 2 changes during break-in) because he found a lot of metal shavings in the oil. He also told me that they would have to basically take the top end off again and check the lifters cause he thought they wasn't "pumping up". I told him to go ahead and do whatever he thought needed to be done and to just let me know. My question to you guys is, does what he say sound correct to you guys? Does metal shavings in the oil mean that I ahve a much more severe problem. Basically, worse case scenario, what am I looking at currently to get her running nice and without any further problems? I really depend on what you guys say and just want some advice so that I don't "cobble" together my car. I really do not want to ruin the motor in it as its original and its what makes it interesting in my eyes. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated as always Scott
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DidgeyTrucker Gearhead Posts: 1539 From: Greenbrier, TN USA Registered: Oct 99
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posted 08-20-2005 11:52 AM
After tracking the first post, I would say the shavings came from the wiped cam. After finding destruction like this, the pan should have been pulled and all foreign material removed. Most of it would have settled in the pan.When putting in a new cam, the lifters should have "primed" before being insatlled. But after running a while they should be "pumped up". Just running the car to move it around the shop is the worst thing you can do to a new cam. Are the rockers adjusted properly? Since the new cam might not have broken in properly, is it also "wiped"? After sitting for some time, the gas might be bad or contaminated. Body shop dust might have found its way inbto the tank or carburetor. Tracy
------------------ Tracy M&M #245 MAC OS9.1 & 10.3.8/ Earthlink DSL 1956 F-100 Panel w/429 (3.50 9") 1966 F-100 SWB w/351C (3.25 9" - 3.70 posi for Saturday nights) Music City F-100's, 1965 GT-350 S/C (2.78 1st & 3.70 TracLok 9") Music City Mustang Club Don't focus on the destination....make the JOURNEY the adventure Visit my Web sites: DidgeyTrucker's Website The Hot Rod Johnny Travelling Rock And Roll Show
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ddenton749 unregistered
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posted 08-22-2005 11:32 AM
Here's a good explanation of cam break-in procedures. If your shop didn't follow them you might have big problems.http://www.4secondsflat.com/Hydraulic_lifter_cams.html Metal shavings in the oil are NEVER good. ------------------ '73 Convertible, 351C 2V '91 LX Convertible 5.0 Member: Valley Forge Mustang Club "I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be." My Site
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capri man Gearhead Posts: 7249 From: doerun, ga. Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 08-22-2005 12:24 PM
this is a real important part that sounds like your mechnic? might not have done!!"Initial Start-Up It is important that the engine starts immediately. Prolonged cranking may damage the camshaft, lifters and/or followers. Before starting the engine, top off the coolant level and make sure the ignition timing is properly set. After starting the engine, DO NOT let it idle. It is essential to run the engine at 1800-2200 RPM for at least 20 minutes. Because the camshaft and lifters are primarily lubricated by the splash of oil from the crankshaft, any RPM below 1,800 may result in insufficient lubrication and may cause cam lobe failure. The high RPM also allows the lifters to rotate quicker and seat properly to the camshaft during this critical break-in procedure. During the first 20 minutes, carefully monitor oil pressure, if any problems arise, shut down the engine immediately. Remember, DO NOT allow the engine to idle."! ------------------ mike r racing is real everything else is just a game. 81 capri-302-7.25 @93mph 1/8 1.54 60ft 50 % of the fun dragracing is meeting people who will give you the shirt off their back to wipe the grease off your hands. M&M member #839 http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/mike470/adel2.jpg
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traumastang Journeyman Posts: 41 From: Palmyra, MO, United States Registered: Jun 2005
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posted 08-22-2005 08:18 PM
Thanks for the replies, I am hoping at worst I will have to purchase another cam and lifter set. Its an expensive lesson but I should have had more trust in my own abilities and done the work myself. Just when I took down to the body man he said he had a decent mechanic who could fix it and save me some money. Well that was a bogus statement, but at least my paintjob looks really good and for the money on that I cant complain too much. He charged me $2500.00, that included House of Color paints (candy apple red) and doing the body work (like fixing the rusted out roof that used to have a vinyl top on it). There was only two areas of concern but they are easliy fixed down the road. For now I just hope I get the motor going good and can drive it some.Thanks again, Scott
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