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Author
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Topic: lights go bright and dim
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 02-14-2005 10:08 PM
 
I am having this strange problem. I can see the dash lights etc, however the flicker. Not on and off but bright and dim. It goes always somewhat when the rpms increase but it still gets dim and bright. Really sucks. I have not had the electrical system checked at the local Auto Zone yet but it is on my list. I have also been told the light switch can cause it. Any suggestions?------------------
rmousir
'66 Mustang Coup
Ford Blue & white stripes
302 auto
work in progress -
[email protected]
Check out my site:
My Toy ~ Updated Oct '04
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74merc
Gearhead Posts: 1322
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 02-14-2005 10:46 PM
The adjustable light switch going out can cause it, sometimes you can clean the contacts, most of the time they're too hard to get to.With mine, the alt changes output at about 2500rpms, so my lights dim around there then brighten back up as the rpms climb. I know how to fix most alt problems, but don't know how to describe it. It drops output so the amps/volts don't climb linearly to the rpm.
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RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 912
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 02-14-2005 10:57 PM
The problem is most likely the voltage regulator. The points style regulators will cycle causing the lights to slightly dim then brighten. If you want to get rid of the flickering then get a new style electronic regulator and put on it.The light switch causes the lights to go completely out, the once the circuit cools the lights will come back on. ------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23
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hardhat
Journeyman Posts: 69
From: summerland, ca
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 02-14-2005 10:59 PM
I can almost guarantee (stress almost) you have a problem with ground contacts. Look at the electrical guide and wire brush/clean all contacts. I had this problem along time ago and an electrical shop fixed it in under an hour.
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hardhat
Journeyman Posts: 69
From: summerland, ca
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 02-14-2005 11:03 PM
Or the voltage regulator.......
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Dave Gibson
Moderator Posts: 10769
From: Norfolk, Virginia, USA M&M#166 MCA#47921
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 02-15-2005 05:09 AM
Had a similar problem with our '65, except it was our head lights that would brighten and dim with the engine rpms. Turned out to be a bad ground. The ground wire from the alternator to the engine block was to blame. Check out all your grounds. Dave & Terri ------------------
'65 Mustang Fastback
'66 Mustang Coupe
'02 Explorer XLT
Common sense isn't common anymore.
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-15-2005 03:34 PM
Is this a common problem with ALL classic cars??? Mine does the same thing under 2000 rpm's. I have Halogen bulbs/lights now, and was told a relay would help. Just curious. I replaced my regulator within the last 6 mos, but that don't mean I didn't get one that's bad. It will go OK once it reaches 1800/2000, but they do dim at idle.------------------
William
I'm too busy workin', to get rich. 68 Coupe
Stock 289
Edelbrock 600/RPM Intake
Pertronix Ignitor/Flamethrower Coil
Doug Thorley Headers with Cherry Bomb's
C4
2.79's out back(for now)
15"x7" AR ASTRO's(needin' new 225 60's) "Project Under Construction"
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Dave Gibson
Moderator Posts: 10769
From: Norfolk, Virginia, USA M&M#166 MCA#47921
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 02-15-2005 05:09 PM
Yes, it is common. But consider that you are talking about cars that are 35+ years old. So all the wiring, if it hasn't been replaced, is subject to the same wear, tear, and corrossion as the rest of your car. Check all the grounds and make sure the connections are solid and rust free.  Dave & Terri ------------------
'65 Mustang Fastback
'66 Mustang Coupe
'02 Explorer XLT
Common sense isn't common anymore.
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-15-2005 05:33 PM
Will do, thanks Dave.
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pony boy
Gearhead Posts: 443
From: n.y. n.y.
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 02-16-2005 11:04 AM
I agree with Ronnie T ,It sounds like a voltage regulator.I used to have the same problem I put in the later style regulator and no more flicker.If you care about originality you can take the cover off of your old one and put in on the new one and no one will be the wiser.
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 02-16-2005 06:42 PM
Thanks for the info everyone. Does anyone have a part number for a new voltage regulator or what year of one I will need?Richard. ------------------
rmousir
'66 Mustang Coup
Ford Blue & white stripes
302 auto
work in progress -
[email protected]
Check out my site:
My Toy ~ Updated Oct '04
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-17-2005 03:34 PM
Well Richard, I just called the Zone, but I don't know if the guy was much help or not. The Ford pro will be there tommorrow, but they found another one listed besides the stock, so I'm going to check it out later today. If it works, I'll post what I got. Gonna try to talk the guy into hooking it up unmounted before I buy it. If you find out, please post results. Thanks------------------
William
I'm too busy workin', to get rich. 68 Coupe
Stock 289
Edelbrock 600/RPM Intake
Pertronix Ignitor/Flamethrower Coil
Doug Thorley Headers with Cherry Bomb's
C4
2.79's out back(for now)
15"x7" AR ASTRO's(needin' new 225 60's) "Project Under Construction"
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 02-17-2005 06:48 PM
I will be going Monday if the weather is good. I don't have to work that day. One of the perks about working at a bank. :-) I will post what I find then. Going to have them do the electric test at the same time.Richard.
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-17-2005 07:04 PM
 ------------------
William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you. 68 Coupe
"Project Under Construction"
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74merc
Gearhead Posts: 1322
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 02-17-2005 10:57 PM
On my car I have a brightness adjustment for the dash lights, do the Mustangs not have this?
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-18-2005 08:58 AM
Yeah, you turn the switch knob to brighten/dim. We are talking about the lights aren't getting enough power unless there is a certain amount of rpm. At least that's my situation.------------------
William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you. 68 Coupe
"Project Under Construction"
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-18-2005 07:12 PM
Well, I talked to the "PRO" at the Zone, and he said it sounded like a ground problem also. He said the fuse box itself is/has a ground, the one from the intake, and the light plugs too. My question is, where are ALL ther ground I need to check to see if it is MY problem??? Sorry to invade your post Richard, but I would like to save my battery at least, in case it's gonna wear it out after awhile.------------------
William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you. 68 Coupe
"Project Under Construction"
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68mustang351w
Gearhead Posts: 558
From: San Jose, Ca
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 02-18-2005 07:30 PM
As far as i remember there is no "ground" for the fuse box but its been a while since ive been down there. The one on the intake is the one that should be on the back of the passager side head connecting to the firewall. I cant remember where the ones for the headlights are but they are probably on the radiator support up in front, taped up. I rewired my car (with an E-Z wiring kit) a long time ago so nothing is the same anymore, plus ive added relays and such. I doubt its the grounds though.. well i hope i helped... David F.
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-18-2005 07:49 PM
Did you do it yourself, and if so, how hard was it to rewire the whole car David???------------------
William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you. 68 Coupe
"Project Under Construction"
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 02-18-2005 07:52 PM
Don't worry about it William. I disagree with the auto zone guy you spoke to. I don't think it is a ground. I have installed new head light plugs so I know that that are good to go and well grounded. I also don't think that this will cause your battery to drain. My lights have been like this since I had the car. When I first bought it I got a new battery for it and I have been fine. I really think that it is a relay or maybe my alt. The motor I have is not original. It is a '73 302 so I don't know if everything is matched up right or now. To make things worse I know I need to rewire the car. LOL. At night the lights go out when I hit the horn. LOL. Figure that out. LOLRichard.
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-18-2005 08:01 PM
WOW, I don't think mine is that bad, but I can't say for sure on that. I'll try it on the way to work here in a little while. I bought new Halogen bulbs, but it was doing this before they were installed too, so I don't know. I am going to let them hook up to the alt, it looks kinda old, so maybe that's the problem??? Thanks for the space Richard, and please post WHAREVER it is that you find out for me PLEASE. Thanks again.------------------
William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you. 68 Coupe
"Project Under Construction"
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exlocal
Gearhead Posts: 1552
From: hacienda hts., CA, USA
Registered: Dec 2004
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posted 02-18-2005 10:18 PM
quote:
Originally posted by 68 Coop:
Is this a common problem with ALL classic cars??? Mine does the same thing under 2000 rpm's. I have Halogen bulbs/lights now, and was told a relay would help. Just curious. I replaced my regulator within the last 6 mos, but that don't mean I didn't get one that's bad. It will go OK once it reaches 1800/2000, but they do dim at idle.
Just like my 67. Halogen lights, MSD6A box, Mallory coil, etc. The stock alternator charges 13-14 volts at idle with the headlights on, BUT when holding the brakes, it'll slowly dip below 13 volts until the engine starts stumbling. I have to heel and toe the gas and brake pedal to keep 14 volts at idle. I need a larger output alternator. I read that 65-66 headlight switches couldn't handle higher output alternators and should run relays. The later 67 and newer headlight switches should be able to handle higher output alternators, but just to be safe, I have the relays ready to go in when I get a larger output alternator. Another project down the road. ------------------
reliving youth [This message has been edited by exlocal (edited 02-18-2005).]
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68mustang351w
Gearhead Posts: 558
From: San Jose, Ca
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 02-18-2005 10:57 PM
I rewired the car because i got tired of chasing electrical problems down, there were shorts EVERYWHERE. THe E-Z wiring kit cost around $180 (its an 18-fuse, 21-circuit set up). Its not the hardest thing to do, it just takes a lot of time to do it. If you have any more questions e-mail me at [email protected] (sorry the post was getting VERY long).. i might have my drawings of how i routed the wiring, but id have to check. Its definetely worth the effort... David F.
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 02-19-2005 09:14 AM
I noticed last night my lights still go dim and bright even when the rpms are up. It is just not as noticable. hmmm. hope the weather is good on monday so I can take her out. to cold today.Richard. ------------------
rmousir
'66 Mustang Coup
Ford Blue & white stripes
302 auto
work in progress -
[email protected]
Check out my site:
My Toy ~ Updated Oct '04
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68mustang351w
Gearhead Posts: 558
From: San Jose, Ca
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 02-20-2005 12:57 AM
Hvae you added any relays, im sure that would help. Youd need two... David F.
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 02-20-2005 11:28 PM
I have a friend come over and look at the problem yesterday. He said the same thing. If the weather is nice I am going to take my car down to the auto zone tomorrow. Otherwise I will have to wait and try again during nice weather.Richard. ------------------
rmousir
'66 Mustang Coup
Ford Blue & white stripes
302 auto
work in progress -
[email protected]
Check out my site:
My Toy ~ Updated Oct '04
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-21-2005 01:07 AM
Well, if it's like this one, they'll have the Painless, but they'll have to order it/them. These bastards here are trying to get almost $7.00 for 2 day service. Otherwise, it's a 10 day wait. ------------------
William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you. 68 Coupe
"Project Under Construction"
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RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 912
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 02-21-2005 08:53 PM
Before I committed to replacing the wiring harness I would try a newer style electronic regulator. If you want to get it from Autozone tell the fellow behind the counter you want a Wells Part# VR749 it should cost around $10. It should be listed in thier catalog as an optional part for your car. The issue with the headlight switch and needing relays is due to the higher current draw of the Halagen bulbs and the internal circuit breaker in the headlight switch. The output of the alt has no effect on the headlight switch. ------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23 [This message has been edited by RonnieT (edited 02-21-2005).]
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-22-2005 09:02 AM
Thanks Ronnie, I'll call them and see if THAT is the part the guy was telling me about. 10 bucks for that is cheaper than the Painless, and I think it's an off the shelf item also.
------------------
William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you. 68 Coupe
"Project Under Construction"
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-22-2005 03:46 PM
My local store has 4, so I'm getting 1 later tonite when I go into work. 14 bucks, but it's a win/win. If it don't mend the problem, at least I got a backup VR to keep me going in a pinch. Then if it does, it might be what you need too Richard. Will post results later tonite.------------------
William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you. 68 Coupe
"Project Under Construction"
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 02-22-2005 06:50 PM
Thanks. If it works I will defently get one tonight. I want to do so much to the car. Man, if I was made of money.Richard. ------------------
rmousir
'66 Mustang Coup
Ford Blue & white stripes
302 auto
work in progress -
[email protected]
Check out my site:
My Toy ~ Updated Oct '04
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-22-2005 11:09 PM
If your VR is the all silver one, don't waste your money. Look at it before you buy it, because it didn't help. I'm gonna go with a bigger alt, just because.------------------
William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you. 68 Coupe
"Project Under Construction"
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-24-2005 09:11 AM
Richard, what did you come up with to solve the problem??? I see now that my car drops ONLY when it is in a gear, doesn't matter if the lights are on or not. As soon as I start to race the engine ANY, it shoots back up to 14+. I'm still thinking it's because the alt is a 65, and they don't put out as much at idle as a 100+ one's do!------------------
William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you. 68 Coupe
"Project Under Construction"
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 02-24-2005 10:16 AM
It rained monday and now it is snowing out here is Cincinnati. Sucks big time. I am going to take the car over to have it tested as soon as the weather clears up. I am not sure about the alt thing. I have a 73 motor and I think the alt is also a 73. Wouldn't that put out the additional amps over a '66? I have also checked my grounds again and they are good. I am pretty sure I have a old regulator though so I may swap it out anyway. I will keep you posted. With any luck the weather will warm up soon.Richard. ------------------
rmousir
'66 Mustang Coup
Ford Blue & white stripes
302 auto
work in progress -
[email protected]
Check out my site:
My Toy ~ Updated Oct '04
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-24-2005 10:39 AM
I meant amps with these #'s. I did a search on this, and it's still a toss up with the grounds and the alt. I think it's the alt, because it seems to get progressivly worse over time. Now it's dropping the meter under load, and it didn't do it before, ONLY when the lights were on.------------------
William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you. 68 Coupe
"Project Under Construction"
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74merc
Gearhead Posts: 1322
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 02-24-2005 11:11 AM
How old is the alternator?Have you tried a new belt? You'd be suprised at how often a belt can slip without squealing or other noticable symptoms.
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-24-2005 12:53 PM
I can't say with 100%. It looks normal, but I haven't REALLY looked at it. I need a 100+ alt anyway, because of the toys hooked up.------------------
William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you. 68 Coupe
"Project Under Construction"
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 02-24-2005 02:28 PM
I don't have a new belt on it but it is tight. Is there a way to tell how much power the alt puts out by looking at it?Richard. ------------------
rmousir
'66 Mustang Coup
Ford Blue & white stripes
302 auto
work in progress -
[email protected]
Check out my site:
My Toy ~ Updated Oct '04
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-24-2005 02:43 PM
I saw in an old thread that said they are stamped by the mounting bolt area. I couldn't see anything, but it's still on the car. I did notice that there's a bolt that hold the 2 cast parts together is broken... I got a feeling it's near Death. Not to put it off on the Man, but Alex is the one that said they are stamped .------------------
William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you. 68 Coupe
"Project Under Construction"
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DidgeyTrucker
Gearhead Posts: 1813
From: Greenbrier, TN USA
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 02-24-2005 03:46 PM
66KIXX, my 1966 F-100 had the flickering lights problem. It was so bad that it burned out a new headlamp after about a year. A new voltage regulator from Advance Auto replaced the orignial "points style" regulator and that stopped the flickering. Until that regulator fried. After the third one fried I went to O'Reilly's and bought a Borg Warner regulator. I've been motoring happily ever since.Tracy ------------------
Tracy M&M #245
MAC OS9.1 & 10.3.6/ Earthlink
1956 F-100 Panel w/429 (3.50 9")
1966 F-100 SWB w/351C (3.25 9" - 3.70 posi for Saturday nights)
Music City F-100's,
1965 GT-350 S/C (2.78 1st & 3.70 TracLok 9")
Music City Mustang Club
Don't focus on the destination....make the JOURNEY the adventure
Visit my Web site: DidgeyTrucker's Website
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-24-2005 04:08 PM
I just changed the VR, to the upgrade version, but it's still doing the same thing. Mine don't flicker, although a new light switch wouldn't hurt, but they just go dimmer as I get closer to a full stop. Now, it don't matter if the lights are on or not, it still drops beneath 13 at idle, in gear. 
If it's not raining tonight, I'm taking it down for a test to see what it's putting out amp wise. Steve brought up a good point about having TOO much amperage going thru the orig wiring. I'd rather have this problem compared to a fire.------------------
William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you. 68 Coupe
"Project Under Construction" [This message has been edited by 68 Coop (edited 02-24-2005).]
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Dave Gibson
Moderator Posts: 10769
From: Norfolk, Virginia, USA M&M#166 MCA#47921
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 02-24-2005 10:16 PM
I mentioned it earlier. Check the alternator ground wire. It's grounded to the lower front passenger side of the engine block. Our lights flickered and we replaced the voltage regulator. Didn't fix the problem. Checked the ground wire and found it to be corrored. Repaired the ground wire and cleaned the connection. No more light flicker problem. That was over a year ago. Dave & Terri ------------------
'65 Mustang Fastback
'66 Mustang Coupe
'02 Explorer XLT
Common sense isn't common anymore.
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-25-2005 09:35 AM
That's the only thing left Dave, but being hardheaded, I have to find that out the hard way . Thanks again, I'll check this out today. Finally looks like it might be dry for a while.------------------
William
Guns don't kill people, it's the 1/2" hole they put in you. 68 Coupe
"Project Under Construction"
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 02-28-2005 05:21 PM
just wanted to update anyone who is still interested. The weather here still sucks so I have not taken the car out but I read an article from Mustang Monthly where they were talking about the old light switches and how they have a fuse in them the will get hot and check out. This, apparently is the cause to several light problems. I then went to my local Auto zone to get a new switch, but they had none in stock so I had them order one. I will get it later this week. I also found out that they can test your voltage regulator. So, I am going to take that in after work tomorrow and have them test it. It it is bad I will swap it as well as the light switch. Last, I did some checking and I do have a good ground on the block to the motor but I did find a second ground wire. At least it looks like a ground wire. It runs from the fire wall to the motor. I have never seen one like this before. Makes me wonder what the PO had done with the car. Anyone know what this is for? I hope to swap out this stuff and put in new this coming up weekend. Anyone else have any new progress? Richard. ------------------
rmousir
'66 Mustang Coup
Ford Blue & white stripes
302 auto
work in progress -
[email protected]
Check out my site:
My Toy ~ Updated Oct '04
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68mustang351w
Gearhead Posts: 558
From: San Jose, Ca
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 02-28-2005 07:53 PM
There *should* be a ground wire from the passanger side head to the firewall... David F.
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 02-28-2005 08:17 PM
I found my alt wire runs out to the rad support for a ground. That and the big one on the intake are good, so I don't know any more to check. I will have Wed free to test the alt at the Zone. I'm really convinced that's MY biggest problem, but we'll see i guess.------------------
William
68 Coupe
"Project Under Construction"
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 03-01-2005 09:20 AM
quote:
Originally posted by 68mustang351w:
There *should* be a ground wire from the passanger side head to the firewall... David F.
Thansk. I was not sure. I have found a few strange things with the car so I had to find out. The fire wall ground is pretty beat up so I am going to get a new one. Richard ------------------
rmousir
'66 Mustang Coup
Ford Blue & white stripes
302 auto
work in progress -
[email protected]
Check out my site:
My Toy ~ Updated Oct '04
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 1124
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 06-08-2005 09:49 AM
Well I finally got it fixed. I swithced the high beam switch, had the alt checked. Redid all the grounds, put in new lights, and a new voltage regulator. None of that worked. So I went and got a new light switch. The threads did not fit the dash bolt right but I tried it anyway. It only cost 12 bucks. Any way it did not make a difference. The new switch was not near as good a quality as the old one so I clean up the old one real good and hooked it back up. Now they work just fine. Now blinking or anything. I don't get it but they work. Now if the high beams will come on I will be happy. just wanted to let everyone know. Richard. ------------------
rmousir
'66 Mustang
Ford Blue & white stripes
302 auto
Mustang ~ 04-05
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 06-08-2005 10:01 AM
That's , looks like I got to do the same thing. Maybe the switch went south on the high-beam side. Or it might need the same, just a good cleaning. Thanks for the up-date.------------------
William
68 Coupe
"Restomod in Progress"
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