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Author Topic:   Distributor Housing placement???
68 Coop
Gearhead

Posts: 146
From: Mesquite, NV.
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 11-11-2004 09:54 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 Coop   Click Here to Email 68 Coop     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
OK guys, I think I am finally getting this timing thing down. One thing I can't figure out tho, where is the canister pointing when you drop the ditsy back in? The way it turns out so far, if I drop it in at say 6 o'clock, it has to rotate to about 8 o'clock to start running smooth. Then there was once, it was touching the t-stat housing before it ran decent. I've had the ditsy out 5 or 6 times now, so if I have to resatb it again, no biggie. All the pics I see of the cars here have it at 6 o'clock. One more thing while you're here, is there a bigger cap for a stock ditsy? The wires are tightly bunched at the cap, so I might be getting a misfire there too. Guess I can call the Zone on that, but any info on the canister position will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

------------------
William

68 Coupe
Stock 289
Edelbrock 600/RPM Intake
Ignitor/Flamethrower
Thorley's with Da Bomb's
C4
2.79's out back(for now)
15"x7" AR ASTRO's(needin' new tires)
"Project Under Construction"

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capri man
Gearhead

Posts: 5625
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 11-11-2004 10:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for capri man   Click Here to Email capri man     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
idealy it will point to 6:00. ease the dist up while putting counterclockwise pressure on the rotor. you can feel it start to disengage the dist gear from the cam gear. go one notch (or click feel) counterclockwise. i think you got it one tooth off.

------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-302-7.33 @92mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.

http://community.prestage.com/Member+Pages/789.aspx

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68 Coop
Gearhead

Posts: 146
From: Mesquite, NV.
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 11-11-2004 11:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 Coop   Click Here to Email 68 Coop     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks Mike, gonna play with it here in a little while, so I was gonna make sure.

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kewljay223
Gearhead

Posts: 336
From: Long Beach, California
Registered: Sep 2002

posted 11-11-2004 01:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kewljay223   Click Here to Email kewljay223     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
well if you can get it running smooth, then shut off the car and mark where the rotor is pointing on the dist housing. then remove the dist, twist it to the position you want it to face making sure that the rotor is still pointing toward the mark. then replace it back in the block. the rotor will move a little as you replace it as you should know since you have done this a couple times. then just re-alighn the rotor and the mark and you should be set. it may be a little of when you fire it but all you have to do is play with it a little to get it smooth.

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68 Coop
Gearhead

Posts: 146
From: Mesquite, NV.
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 11-11-2004 03:39 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 Coop   Click Here to Email 68 Coop     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks kewljay223, I'll post any changes as they progress.

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65ponycar
Gearhead

Posts: 525
From: Dayton, OH
Registered: Jul 2003

posted 11-11-2004 06:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65ponycar   Click Here to Email 65ponycar     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If you could guess-ta-mate how much range (say degrees or clock reference) could you turn your distributor without adversely affecting your engines ablity to idle?
It seems I can turn mine from the 5 o'clock postition to 7 o'clock before bogging the motor down/sputtering. Seems like a big range, as much motion as the "tooth" setting will allow.
P.S. sorry to but in on your thread 68 coop just you seem really intune with this aspect of my project. thanks!
Dan

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68 Coop
Gearhead

Posts: 146
From: Mesquite, NV.
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 11-11-2004 09:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 Coop   Click Here to Email 68 Coop     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey post away, I'm guilty of it myself. I figure if we both can learn something, it saves me from asking . The only thing that really bugs me now, is it seems like I have a miss on the pass side. It will pop, or backfire, not real bad, just a pop every now and then. I was thinking it was in the way the wires are running from the ditsy. Went to the Zone, but they had the same cap as I do for 22.00. I want to go rounder, so they are spaced more, and maybe get longer wires to help reroute some of them. Maybe I'll get the Pertronix kit to go with my unit, and see how that works. Hey, thanks for taking the time, and if need be, ask what you may. It's all a learning process for me, the more info the better.

------------------
William

68 Coupe
Stock 289
Edelbrock 600/RPM Intake
Ignitor/Flamethrower
Thorley's with Da Bomb's
C4
2.79's out back(for now)
15"x7" AR ASTRO's(needin' new tires)
"Project Under Construction"

IP: Logged

capri man
Gearhead

Posts: 5625
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 11-11-2004 09:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for capri man   Click Here to Email capri man     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
start it up in the dark and you can see by the sparks if you have an electrical leak!!

did you change cams??

------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-302-7.33 @92mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.

http://community.prestage.com/Member+Pages/789.aspx

IP: Logged

68 Coop
Gearhead

Posts: 146
From: Mesquite, NV.
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 11-11-2004 09:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 Coop   Click Here to Email 68 Coop     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
No, not yet. Figure around next spring. I've had it running in the dark, but didn't see any light shows anywhere. I'm gonna bring it to TDC, and see where the rotor is, then take it from there. Thanks for the reply Mike, will get back to you guys with what I find out.

------------------
William

68 Coupe
Stock 289
Edelbrock 600/RPM Intake
Ignitor/Flamethrower
Thorley's with Da Bomb's
C4
2.79's out back(for now)
15"x7" AR ASTRO's(needin' new tires)
"Project Under Construction"

IP: Logged

65ponycar
Gearhead

Posts: 525
From: Dayton, OH
Registered: Jul 2003

posted 11-11-2004 09:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65ponycar   Click Here to Email 65ponycar     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 68 Coop:
One more thing while you're here, is there a bigger cap for a stock ditsy? The wires are tightly bunched at the cap, so I might be getting a misfire there too.

I checked on this for you;
From Ford:
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=563

I'm about 100% sure you can get a "knock off" of this kit/conversion at the zone, I think that is where my buddy got one last summer.

Hope it helps! Later


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68 Coop
Gearhead

Posts: 146
From: Mesquite, NV.
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 11-12-2004 01:35 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 Coop   Click Here to Email 68 Coop     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
WOW. Does it ever, and I can't even flench on the price, with the one at the Zone being 22.00. It don't even come close to this. Thanks, I appreciate the time and info.

------------------
William

68 Coupe
Stock 289
Edelbrock 600/RPM Intake
Ignitor/Flamethrower
Thorley's with Da Bomb's
C4
2.79's out back(for now)
15"x7" AR ASTRO's(needin' new tires)
"Project Under Construction"

IP: Logged

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