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Author
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Topic: Spitting and sputtering
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My 66 coupe
Journeyman Posts: 45
From: Fort Bragg, NC
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 11-01-2004 06:06 PM
 
Ok the plugs are good and all the wires are hot and the car runs fine at idle. When you put a load on it though it is spitting and sputtering and there is no get up and go. Every once in a while it will baack fire to. Any ideas? Oh and the timing is set right also.
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Toronado3800
Gearhead Posts: 1163
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 11-01-2004 07:05 PM
Sounds like you have spark down, How old is the carb or have tested your fuel pump?I have Summit's rather cheap in line guage attached to my Edelbrock and it typically bounces around 8 psi.
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My 66 coupe
Journeyman Posts: 45
From: Fort Bragg, NC
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 11-01-2004 07:53 PM
carb and fuel punp are both new? What is spark down?
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swiss
Gearhead Posts: 236
From: Duluth, Ga
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 11-01-2004 08:11 PM
What you discribed will also be exhibited with the wrong firing order. Have you verified your plug wires and firing order.Steve
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My 66 coupe
Journeyman Posts: 45
From: Fort Bragg, NC
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 11-01-2004 08:29 PM
Just went and triple checked and the plugs are in the right order! Any other guesses?
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65ponycar
Gearhead Posts: 873
From: Dayton, OH
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 11-01-2004 08:31 PM
Damn! this is the same exact symptoms I've been trying to describe with my new 302.  I'll be watching this thread as it progresses!
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65ponycar
Gearhead Posts: 873
From: Dayton, OH
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 11-01-2004 08:35 PM
Have you had your distributor out? Just wondering because my buddies keep trying to tell me I have it in 180*s out (like, engine not at true TDC)? I've pulled mine and tried to restab it several times to no avail. But I got the same exact symptoms going as you, just a thought.Oh, maybe I missed it, but how did this start for you?
- Get gradually worse?
- Happen all at once?
- Have you changed any parts or tune?
maybe some of this could help...
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My 66 coupe
Journeyman Posts: 45
From: Fort Bragg, NC
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 11-01-2004 08:39 PM
I pulled my plugs out and cleaned and regapped them. I pulled them one at a time to keep my wires strait. It has progressivly got worse over the last week. It is driving me nuts!
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65ponycar
Gearhead Posts: 873
From: Dayton, OH
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 11-01-2004 08:57 PM
You don't by chance have a chrome 'hold down clamp' on your distributor do you? I had one on once that would not grip or stay down tight enough to hold the timing; when I really hit it hard the distributor would rotate... OK I'll leave your thread alone now, I just feel for you cause this is frustrating me too 
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My 66 coupe
Journeyman Posts: 45
From: Fort Bragg, NC
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 11-01-2004 09:03 PM
I do in fact but and tomarrow I will check and see if it is moving. Thank you! I've got my fingers crossed!
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RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 912
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 11-01-2004 09:42 PM
Had something similar to this happen to me on my 351. I was running a stock distributor at the time and the breaker plate guide bushing broke, when the vacuum advance moved the plate the dwell angle would go nuts and the engine would fall flat on its face. It took me awhile to figure out what was going on. Finally hooked up a dwell meter and slowly reved the engine, then I could see the dwell changing.------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23
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grego37
Gearhead Posts: 411
From: los angeles,CA,USA
Registered: May 2004
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posted 11-02-2004 05:23 PM
sounds like a timing problem to me.
or maybe clogged fuel filter.
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Toronado3800
Gearhead Posts: 1163
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 11-03-2004 12:16 AM
Sorry for the confusion, I meant it sounded like you have the spark under controll. But now that its been brought up, one time I swapped a chevy back of the motor distributor and messed things up 180 degrees.
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My 66 coupe
Journeyman Posts: 45
From: Fort Bragg, NC
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 11-04-2004 05:51 PM
Fuel filter is good and the timing is good. It isn't a new distributor so it can't be 180 out. Today it started blowing back pressure out the carb does that help anyone? I am at a loss!
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65ponycar
Gearhead Posts: 873
From: Dayton, OH
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 11-05-2004 09:22 AM
quote:
Originally posted by My 66 coupe:
Today it started blowing back pressure out the carb does that help anyone? I am at a loss!
If by blowing back pressure out fo the carb you mean something similar to little poping or puffs of air, these are the exact symptoms my new 302 is suffering from... TTT, if someone can solve this I bet you can take care of a problem for 2 members...
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grego37
Gearhead Posts: 411
From: los angeles,CA,USA
Registered: May 2004
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posted 11-05-2004 11:20 AM
what kind of distributer do you have?.what type of advance does it use? What is your timing set at ? What is your firing order? Who much fuel pressure do you have? Is your cap and rotor ok?
(worn contacts or cracked cap) Are your wires seperated, not too close together possible arching (misfiring)
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adragon8u
Gearhead Posts: 5867
From: Oceano, Ca. member# 2895
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 11-05-2004 11:39 AM
I was fighting a similer prob like this awhile back and realized that I had placed the plug wires on the cap in a clockwise position instead of counter clockwise. Once I figured out my error and corrected it, it ran fine. I would pull #1 plug and have someone crank the engine until you find true tdc and go from there. And make sure you wire it in the correct direction. 
just an idea.------------------
"I started with nothing, and I still have most of it left"
http://webpages.charter.net/adragon8u/mystang
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My 66 coupe
Journeyman Posts: 45
From: Fort Bragg, NC
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 11-05-2004 01:12 PM
I have an accel distributor, vaccume advance, timing is dead on, so is the firing order, have about 6psi of fuel, cap is not cracked or burned, and the wires are spread.
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adragon8u
Gearhead Posts: 5867
From: Oceano, Ca. member# 2895
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 11-05-2004 01:26 PM
ok, I'm going for a long shot here. Are you experiencing any knocking under load?
A Honda I had years ago did this too. It idled fine, and if I accelerated slowly, it was fine. But under a load or fast acceleration I had a bad knock and no power. Did a compression check and found out that the head gasket was bad between two cylinders and I was experiecing what's called "crossfire" between the cylinders. No oil in water or water in oil. Have you done a compression test?------------------
"I started with nothing, and I still have most of it left"
http://webpages.charter.net/adragon8u/mystang
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STEVEB
Journeyman Posts: 75
From: ottawa on. canada
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 11-05-2004 01:45 PM
I agree, do a compression test wet and dry you may have a bent intake valve or a intake valve that is not sitting tight against the valve seat,also check the coil to see if it's up to spec,a coil can start to go weak and also cause th same kind of problem you're seeingSteve
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fred
Gearhead Posts: 184
From: berea ky
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 11-05-2004 02:23 PM
Hi,
Have you checked the timing chain, take off the dist cap turn crankshaft one diredtion til rotor starts to move then turn crankshaft other direction until rotor stars to move again the amount you turn shaft until rotor moves is the amount of slack in the timing chain should probably be no more than 3 degess of slack.
Fred[This message has been edited by fred (edited 11-05-2004).]
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grego37
Gearhead Posts: 411
From: los angeles,CA,USA
Registered: May 2004
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posted 11-05-2004 06:46 PM
when you say your timing is dead on, what are you saying?My car ran the same exact way until I figured it was set up exactally "dead on" TDC (ZERO DEGREES,) THE EASY WAY:
did you hook up a timing light?
do you have TDC marked on your balancer?
do you have a timing light with a dial back?
check your initial timing. Or, (unplug coil) mark your dist. housing where your #1 plug wire is,
take your cap off.
remove #1 sparkplug (front passenger)
put a finger in the spark plug hole
bump the engine over (remote starter or w/screw driver at starter relay) until the rotor is just pointing at the mark you made on your housing
(this is either TDC or 180* off TDC) the time this happens when air rushes by your finger this is TDC. Go around a few times until you know exactally where it is. Now on the rotation where it's going to happen, watch the rotor and stop it just as the leading edge of the rotor electrode is pointing at your housing mark. find your pointer and see what it's reading on the balancer, If it's pointing directly at TDC you have zero timing(not good) it should read something usually between 10* and 20* (this is your initial timing) good luck
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My 66 coupe
Journeyman Posts: 45
From: Fort Bragg, NC
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 11-05-2004 07:49 PM
checked timing chain and it is good no more than 3 degrees. You are scaring me so I'll do a compression check tomarrow. Cross your fingers I really don't want to have to tare the top half of the engine apart. A valve would be even worse. I checked the coil and it is good. The timing is set at 36 degrees. Which is what the guy who built the motor for me said it should be.
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swiss
Gearhead Posts: 236
From: Duluth, Ga
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 11-05-2004 09:37 PM
The timing is set at 36 degrees at what? Idle? That would be way to high.The problem that we all have had is that we need some more information. Everyone is throwing out ideas but following this thread we really do not have an understanding of the total picture. There are some highly intelligent individuals in this forum that given the proper information can give you a better idea on what to review. Is this a new motor?
Did it ever run right?
What changed? Please outline a more detailed background on your situation. Thanks Steve
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