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Author
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Topic: Shelby Drop
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Fastback Nation
Gearhead Posts: 130
From: San Diego, CA USA
Registered: Aug 2004
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posted 08-27-2004 12:13 PM
   
Has anyone out there done the Shelby Drop on their ride? That is, drilling another set of mounting holes to mount the upper control arm 1" lower (1" lower and 1/8" back on 65-66 models). Supposed to create negative camber when cornering.
I know that Shelby did it to his 65 GT350s, but others?
Anyway, in terms of handling and all around drivability, is it a good idea, bad idea, what??
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65Cobra
Journeyman Posts: 13
From: Mesa, Arizona, USA
Registered: Aug 2004
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posted 08-27-2004 06:30 PM
Yes the 1" Shelby drop can be a very good thing for handling IF it is done correctly. Meaning that the holes are drilled in the right place. I have it done to my Shelby GT350 (restomod) and it definitely makes a difference when going around corners, especially at high speeds. Do your homework first! There is more to it than just that. Your friend,
"Doc"
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Visit my '65 Shelby GT350R site:
http://jmichael.info/SHELBY.htm
and my latest '65 427 S/C BDR Cobra
http://jmichael.info/65Cobra.htm
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rm302 boss
Gearhead Posts: 680
From: Austin Texas
Registered: Dec 2002
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posted 08-27-2004 06:39 PM
There is a bunch more you need to know. FYI:
Dropping the upper control are puts the upper ball joint n a bind at hard corners. some have made a wedge out of aluminum to off set this and there are templates that you can use to drill the holes. I have them but i use a paper one and have a friend cut out of stainless a plate that bolts in the old holes and leaves a perfect match to drill the new ones there for re enforcing the shock tower.
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1970 Boss 302
1990 Taurus SHO
1985 Mustang GT 351W
www.crcmotorsports.com
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rmousir
Gearhead Posts: 687
From: Amelia, Ohio
Registered: May 2003
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posted 08-27-2004 07:13 PM
rm302 bossyou said"
I have them but i use a paper one and have a friend cut out of stainless a plate that bolts in the old holes and leaves a perfect match to drill the new ones there for re enforcing the shock tower. " Can you give a few more details on that. Do you leave the plate in there for support after you have done the shelby drop? Also do you have more info on the wedge that some people have done to improve the stress that can be put on the ball joint. I am getting ready to do the front suspension this fall and I am considering doing the drop but I am leary of the ball joint stressing problem. Any additional info will be greatly appreciated. Richard ------------------
rmousir
'66 Mustang Coup
Ford Blue & white stripes
302 auto
work in progress -
[email protected]
Check out my site:
rmousir's 66 mustang
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swiss
Gearhead Posts: 224
From: Duluth, Ga
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 08-27-2004 08:59 PM
Another option is to purchase the progressive rate springs that are shorter than stock. You will get a better ride out of the progressive spring rate and the shorter spring helps lower the profile. I had researched to death the shelby drop and decided to go with the spring change only. I have not regretted the change. NPD carries these springs. Steve
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My 66 coupe
Journeyman Posts: 45
From: Fort Bragg, NC
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 08-28-2004 11:37 AM
I did the shelby drop and the lowering springs and was very happy with both it really improved my handling. You can get a shelby drop template from a number of sites and once you get it printed to size you can take it to a machine shop and have them make a steel template. Then you can't do it wrong. also many places sell a negitive wedge kit if you would rather go that route. They are kinda pricey though for what they are. I did a lot of research on this befor I did it and everything I found said that the extra stress on the ball joints was not a factor unless you did a 2 inch drop. I hope this helps!
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Fastback Nation
Gearhead Posts: 130
From: San Diego, CA USA
Registered: Aug 2004
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posted 08-30-2004 10:01 AM
I've heard the same thing as was stated above, that you don't have to worry about a negative wedge kit unless you drop more than 1". That is, unless you drop your upper control arm more than 1", you won't have to worry about putting your ball joint in a bind.
As for the template/steel idea, I like it and have already begun to do it. I think leaving the steel template in place is a good idea for structural reasons, although I don't think leaving the two upper holes left un-filled will compromise the structure. But you can't be too safe and the less flexing in that front end, the better.
Also realize that dropping the upper control arm 1" will not drop the ride height a full 1", it will be somewhat less. So don't do the shelby drop just to gain a lower front end or you'll be disappointed.
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