Author
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Topic: Coil Springs
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grourown420 unregistered
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posted 06-02-2004 12:23 AM
I know you guys have probally been asked this a hundred times, but here goes. What is the safest and easiest way to change the coils and shocks in one swoop? I'm renting a compressor from Auto Zone, so I guess they will have some kind of instructions. Just want first hand experience, so I can enjoy the end result of all my cussing and sweating . Thanks in advance for anything you might think is useful.------------------ I'm running with what I got till I break it, then I'll ask lots of questions. 68 Coupe #162531 Stock 289 2bbl with Thorley's C4 2:79 Gears 225/60 Eagle GT II's on 15" ASTRO's If ya aint havin' fun doin' it, ya aint doin' it right.
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kwalger Gearhead Posts: 238 From: Richmond, Texas Registered: May 2004
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posted 06-02-2004 12:35 AM
Same here...my 'stang is sagging bad and Ive been wanting to do the same. Would like to change the four shocks front coils, but dont know where to start, much less where to end...I do realize safety is the biggest issue in the coil department. Have floor jack, stands, and access to spring compessor. Ready to go, just need the know how turorial.
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whiteknight289 Gearhead Posts: 1391 From: Wheaton, IL, USA Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 06-02-2004 01:24 AM
I suppose you'll get so many answers to this one that it will be more confusing than helpful, but here's my method.I support the car on jackstands under the frame section behind the wheel, just after the curve where it starts to straighten out under the floor boards. You could also put them under the front of the frame under the front bumper mounts. I prefer to put them behind so they arent' in the way for using a floor jack. Remove the wheel. Put the floor jack under the lower control arm and apply pressure, just to the point of the car wanting to raise off the jackstand. This loads (compresses) the coil spring doing some of the work for you. Remove the two bottom shock nuts, then remove the top shock bolts and the shock tower cap nuts and the cap. Pull the shock out. Install the coil spring compressor. Mine is a long 1" thick threaded rod that goes down thru the spring just like a shock absorber and bolts onto the coil spring perch (the bottom of my compressor is an old shock). Then a top plate goes over the shock tower, followed by a washer and a large nut. As I turn the nut down against the shock tower the threaded rod pulls up on the coil spring perch. Next I take off off the two nuts that hold the coil spring perch to the upper control arm. Slowly release the jack under the control arm, allowing the suspension to lower away from the coil spring that is being securely held tight up inside the shock tower. The two studs from the coil spring perch will come free of the control arm, and the control arm and spindle will lower down out of the way. Slowly loosen the nut at the top of the compressor and the spring will gradually de-compress and come out. Install is just reversing the procedure. It is helpful to have a couple large screwdrivers or prybars to turn and coax the coil spring saddle back into the control arm. If you get the type of compressor that mounts on the outside of the spring, be very careful!!! If the arms are too close, the tension of the coil spring can cause the spring to bow and suddenly the arms can jump towards each other. At the very least you'll need to change your shorts after that happens! ------------------ MCA Certified Judge, 1965-1966 66 GT coupe A code, Silver Frost 65 coupe modified - the White Knight 66 convert being restored 95 GT convertible/Cobra clone - black with white leather
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grourown420 unregistered
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posted 06-02-2004 01:51 AM
LOL, thanks whiteknight289, that sounds simple enough to me. Gonna give the springs a good thick coat of Yellow Rust-o-leum first. Would it be OK to use that spray can undercoat on the inside of the wheelwells? The front looks good, but the back has cancer, so I will skip them for now. Thanks for the time and info.------------------ I'm running with what I got till I break it, then I'll ask lots of questions. 68 Coupe #162531 Stock 289 2bbl with Thorley's C4 2:79 Gears 225/60 Eagle GT II's on 15" ASTRO's If ya aint havin' fun doin' it, ya aint doin' it right.
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Fastback68 Gearhead Posts: 4511 From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines Registered: Jul 99
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posted 06-02-2004 04:22 AM
I did it once, and even with my $25 compressor, it involved lots of wire wrapped round the coils to compress one side more than the other just so I could get it back in. All the paint was ruined on the coils so those had to be redone. It was a horrible job, and a nerve-racking experience that lasted the best part of two days. I know it will be easier next time - but there won't be a next time! I just wanted to see if I could do it! Horrible job!
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grourown420 unregistered
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posted 06-02-2004 05:40 AM
I think thats why I'm renting one at AZ, all they want is a deposit, thats refundable, upon return of the Compressor. I'm like you on seeing if I can do it or not. The way whiteknight explained it sounds easy enough, as long as I dont get in a big rush. Anyway, I'll be doing it within the next couple days, so I will post the results. Pics will be taken, but posted at a later date. Thanks for the time.------------------ I'm running with what I got till I break it, then I'll ask lots of questions. 68 Coupe #162531 Stock 289 2bbl with Thorley's C4 2:79 Gears 225/60 Eagle GT II's on 15" ASTRO's If ya aint havin' fun doin' it, ya aint doin' it right.
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kwalger Gearhead Posts: 238 From: Richmond, Texas Registered: May 2004
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posted 06-02-2004 08:50 AM
I will echo grourown420's sentiments and says thanks as well. Wont know how to do it , till you try it. Thanks guys
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whiteknight289 Gearhead Posts: 1391 From: Wheaton, IL, USA Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 06-02-2004 09:32 AM
If I don't run into rusted or broken hardware, it takes me about 45 minutes to 1 hour on each side from start to finish, including the initial jacking of the car all the way through to torqueing the last lug nut. Keep in mind, I already know which wrenchs and sockets I need, I use power tools where possible, and I've done this dozens of times with a compressor I'm familiar with. With an outside compressor and being unfamiliar with the job, I would plan on 2 hours per side. You should replace the coil spring perch while you are in there, otherwise you'll one day have to do this all over again! An inside compressor won't hurt the paint on the springs. SnapOn used to make one and Ford shows one in the original 66 Shop Manual. I made mine from threaded rod, a shock tower cap from a 71-73, and welded on the bottom plate that was cut off an old shock. Got the idea from the back pages of Tony Branda Shelby & Mustang catalog. Good Luck! ------------------ MCA Certified Judge, 1965-1966 66 GT coupe A code, Silver Frost 65 coupe modified - the White Knight 66 convert being restored 95 GT convertible/Cobra clone - black with white leather
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 48752 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 06-02-2004 11:06 AM
Keep in mind the parts stores will be renting out a spring compessor designed for McPherson struts. These are two piece, mounts on the outside of the spring, and you must compress them evenly or the spring gets kinked and squirrelly {and dangerous}. The old style compressors were a single threaded rod that compressed from within the spring and they compressed the spring fairly even. A week or two ago I tried to find an old style internal spring compressor to buy locally and not only did nobody have one, none of the parts guys even knew what they were! I am going to start charging these parts houses a fee for training their countermen if this keeps up! ------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open '70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open '72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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grourown420 unregistered
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posted 06-02-2004 11:13 AM
Thank you Sir, and I dont know for sure, but these might have ever been changed, so I,m thinking some frozen bolts. Guess I'll hit it with WD40 tonight so it can penatrate at least 24 hours. Gonna take off the wheels to get a better visual also. Thanks again whiteknight, I will post if any problems come up. ------------------ I'm running with what I got till I break it, then I'll ask lots of questions. 68 Coupe #162531 Stock 289 2bbl with Thorley's C4 2:79 Gears 225/60 Eagle GT II's on 15" ASTRO's If ya aint havin' fun doin' it, ya aint doin' it right.
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grourown420 unregistered
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posted 06-02-2004 11:23 AM
Thanks Steve, I know what you mean on those parts people. Just a paycheck to some of them. So if I ever run across one of those Compressors, I'll buy it for GP. Bottom line, keeping ALL body parts is the goal, while coming out with a job to be proud of. Thanks for the input. ------------------ I'm running with what I got till I break it, then I'll ask lots of questions. 68 Coupe #162531 Stock 289 2bbl with Thorley's C4 2:79 Gears 225/60 Eagle GT II's on 15" ASTRO's If ya aint havin' fun doin' it, ya aint doin' it right.
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whiteknight289 Gearhead Posts: 1391 From: Wheaton, IL, USA Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 06-02-2004 11:37 AM
Steve, Make your own compressor, Branda used to post the instructions in the back pages of his catalog. I've got about $10 in hardware, plus a $5 upper shock shock tower bracket, plus a free cut-off piece of an old shock. To be on the safe side I took it to a pro welder and for $10 he TIG'd it real nice for me. Painted up it looks like a tool you'd buy in a catalog, and I've used it on at least a dozen cars.
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 48752 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 06-02-2004 11:43 AM
That's about the same amount of money it costs to buy one, not counting the running around. ------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open '70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open '72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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