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Author
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Topic: Where to brace when replacing panels on mustang ?
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Snake_Eyes
Journeyman Posts: 65
From:
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 05-08-2004 07:15 AM
   
I would like your options, advice, etc on where would be the best place to weld support braces on a 68 mustang when replacing outer rockers, wheelhouse and quarters ? wondering how some of you go about it ?thanks
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ddenton749
Gearhead Posts: 366
From: Kennett Square, PA, USA
Registered: Apr 2004
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posted 05-08-2004 09:18 AM
Convertible or coupe?
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 6677
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 05-08-2004 01:33 PM
Never done outer rockers-that 68 must have seen some extra salt over the years. To get structural integrity, I would weld some braces across the door openings. and an X cross brace system across the width. Would remove the strikers and leave the doors on. In doing cv's, liked to rebuild the hinges so that you could get proper adjustment of doors, which is critical to entire car panel alignment. Think the rocker would be a place to start, doing one side at a time. Gotta believe that the floors must be bad, also. Would put floors in on the first side. Would then do the other side. In the latest M&Fords, Allen Shepley, who owns a Mustang shop and is very knowledgeable, gives an explanation of outer wheel house replacement in his column. He's a great person to talk with. In essence, he says to test fit the 1/4 with the wheel house attached with a couple tec screws. This allows for adjustment and alignment of the two pieces, which are then removed, fitted and installed. On a 66 cv, did close to that but only installed the outer part of the new outer house. Only cut out what was bad,and fitted the new whittled down wheelhouse. Cutting out the entire house brings more problems. In my case had a prob with the radius of the wheelhouse and 1/4. Thanks Taiwan!! When it comes time to remove the 1/4 panel, take it off in sectons, leaving the outer part on. Why? It allows for the proper removal of the welded attaching pieces so that too much material is not removed from the latch pillar, trunk drop offs, rocker panel, sail panel (where 1/4 meets the roof} tailite panel, and the area between decklid and rear window-also wheel wells. Go slow, ask questions BEFORE you do something you're not sure of and measure, remeasure, remeasure, remeasure, remeasure, etc. Doing a splice on a w/shield pillar, had a template, carefully measured, etc, etc. A friend walks in and says, I think your pillar is wrong. It was off a wee bit but he saw something that I didn't. Thank God it had only been tacked.Something I learned from an old time body man, was to keep the car on it's wheels when poss. Putting 1/4's on the 66cv, never took them off until they were welded solid enough, and my door gap was right. Then took them off. I have the car on ramps (front and back placed in opposite directions for safety) and did the entire job of 1/4's wheelhouses, tailite panel, etc. Good way to eliminate "surprise parties"!! Taking off the driveshaft will allow better bottom support if it is nec.
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Snake_Eyes
Journeyman Posts: 65
From:
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 05-09-2004 07:17 AM
Its a 68 coupe. This mustang has seen allot of salt, i mean there's parts cars in better shape than this one. They don't make replacement parts for some of the areas that's rusted on this car, so I need to get used originals. The previous owners, also used too much heat when they brazed areas on this car. They warp the quarter so much, then they put body filler on the whole quarter with some areas being an inch thick. The car is not that great to get good measurements from because of this. Those non US made panels are bad, i ordered a radiator support and its made out of such thin gage. Some people must think i am an idiot for working on a car this bad. Any how enough rambling, Ill be sure to take a look at that magazine article. Thanks for the advice
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