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Author
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Topic: FLOOR BOARD REPLACEMENT
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67tangoman
Journeyman Posts: 99
From: Jacksboro, Tn. U.S.A
Registered: May 2004
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posted 05-05-2004 08:03 AM
 
Hey I am getting ready to replace my floor pans. Can I cut both sides out at the same time or do I need to fix one at a time. Where do I need to place jack stands for support. Thanks,John
67 coupe
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whiteknight289
Gearhead Posts: 1391
From: Wheaton, IL, USA
Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 05-05-2004 09:37 AM
Since you are doing a coupe it isn't as critical as a convertible - you still have a solid steel roof that is holding the car together.
Jackstands should go under the front frame rail extension, just about even with the bottom of the firewall, and the rear stands under the rear torque boxes at the front eye bolt of the leaf springs.
You could cust both out at the same time, but why not leave one in place to use as a sample or guide to halep you get the first one done.
Cut around the seat belt attaching holes (leave them attached to the car).
Remember, the Mustang is a unibody car and the floor pan is part of the structure of the car.------------------
MCA Certified Judge, 1965-1966
66 GT coupe A code, Silver Frost
65 coupe modified - the White Knight
66 convert being restored
95 GT convertible/Cobra clone - black with white leather
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ddenton749
unregistered
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posted 05-05-2004 01:13 PM
Place the jack stands as whiteknight suggests, however, leave your jack or some other support under the engine cross member, and also the rear axle for good measure. Tack weld the floors and check to make sure your doors work before you weld the floors in permanently. Even a coupe unibody can flex on you. If your doors fall out of alignment, raise or lower your jack(s) until they work right - then start welding.Do one side at a time and start with the passenger side. That way your learning curve doesn't involve working around the pedals, steering column, etc.
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swiss
Gearhead Posts: 236
From: Duluth, Ga
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 05-06-2004 10:58 PM
67tanoman I learned a very valuable lesson last week I thought I would pass on. I am new at restorations so this may be old news to the seasoned pros. The floor pans were rusted out on my 65 and I purchased new pans. After discussing the problem with many seasoned pros, I also figured out that the inner rockers were rusted out under the front area. Not wanting to tackle this dilema I took the car to Carolina Rod Shop a restoration shop in Greenville, SC. My original thoughts and understanding as I looked at the new floor pans that I had ordered was you cut out the old and put in the new. I got an education when the fab man only cut out the 2" on the side of the floor that was bad and left all the original. He actually fabricated new metal instead of using the new pans that I had purchased. Talking to him about the job and his approach that is when I learned I was totally wrong in assuming that you cut out the old and put in the new. He actually said never cut out more than is bad even if you throw away 80% of a panel you may purchase. Keeping as much of the original metal, strength and integrity as long as the steel is good is the proper way to approach any metal replacement. It makes total sense after listening and thinking about it, but my gut instinct not knowing any better would have been to cut out everything and put in a new piece. For all of you in the south that may want another resource for metal work, I highly recommend Carolina Rod shop. www.carolinarodshop.com. These quality and workmanship is in line with the best. Steve
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Fastback68
Gearhead Posts: 4511
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 05-06-2004 11:08 PM
quote:
Keeping as much of the original metal, strength and integrity as long as the steel is good is the proper way to approach any metal replacement.
I've been racking my brain over this one. When you say your guy cut away only the part that was bad at the side, did he replace it right up to and including the welded area to the frame? If so, that would be the way to go. But if he were to leave the original welded section attached to the frame and simply cut out and replace a rusted area of sheet metal, that, in my book, would be wrong. The basic rules are: (i) original metal = good, (ii) joins = bad, (iii) if keeping as much original metal as possible also involves lots of joins, rip out original metal and replace in its entirety.
I know I'm clear as mud here. But if, for example, the front and back of your floor pan is rusty but the center is OK, you're better off replacing the whole thing than putting in two patches and creating a load of undesirable joins.[This message has been edited by Fastback68 (edited 05-07-2004).]
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67tangoman
Journeyman Posts: 99
From: Jacksboro, Tn. U.S.A
Registered: May 2004
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posted 05-07-2004 08:33 AM
Thanks fellas. I believe I will just take it to somebody that's done this before. I'm afraid this job may be too crucial for a tinkerer doing this for the first time. I've got too much time and money invested.
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ddenton749
unregistered
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posted 05-07-2004 08:37 AM
I agree with FastBack68. I always take the old panel out up to the original joint whenever possible. This avoids extra welds so the car doesn't wind up looking like a Frankenstien monster. And, like Fastback said, "joints=bad" because they are a place where rust loves to start. Taking the old panel out at its original seems is a much cleaner way to go. Disclaimer: This is only the opinion of a member and may not reflect the opinion of the management...
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cynot65
Gearhead Posts: 1258
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 05-07-2004 05:40 PM
Tango dude, I recommended this to another poster who asked about welding. Not only should you find a guy who can weld but in my opinion you should always find someone who's done Mustangs.
Just my 2 cents
Tony C*------------------
65 Convertible, Vintage Burgandy/Standard Black Interior, 289, 4spd
M&M Member#450
It ain't done yet, but it'll be done right!!
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68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 3835
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 05-07-2004 06:39 PM
How do you find a seam in a part that is one piece? I might be wrong but wasn?t the tunnel and each side of the floor stamped out on the same piece of metal originally? This of course would not include the toe boards and trunk floor. Always thought the way of less is better and more of the original floor is better.
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swiss
Gearhead Posts: 236
From: Duluth, Ga
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 05-07-2004 11:00 PM
68Stang did not mean to leave you hanging! Not having any prior metal experiance, I looked at a short form floor replacement and my gut would have been to cut out to fit close to the replacement. When in reality after new inner rockers were fabricated the floor pan was only rotted out about 4" from inners towards the tranny tunnel. Thus only about 4" parallel the rocker was necessary to be removed not the complete amount per the replacement piece I was looking at. Point is I would have cut the whole pan out when that was not necessary. I concur on your points about joints and the number of welds and cuts. He did start one side of the patch from the original joint location on the outside of the car and created a new seam in the floor. After grinding and seam sealer it is tough to even tell. Nice job.
[This message has been edited by swiss (edited 05-07-2004).]
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67tangoman
Journeyman Posts: 99
From: Jacksboro, Tn. U.S.A
Registered: May 2004
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posted 05-07-2004 11:31 PM
Can I get by with just welding the top and seam sealing the bottom?
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