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Author
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Topic: Coolant System
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grourown420
unregistered
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posted 04-15-2004 10:39 PM
 
Hi everyone, and let me apologize if I made anyone mad, but I thought I was helping someone in need.  That said, I had a leak in my top heater hose coming from the water pump. I cut about 3 inches off it and reconnected it. Now, no matter if I let it idle or drive it arond the block, I can't feel water in the top rad hose. I had to pull the heater hose forward a little, but it did not kink up anywhere as far as I can tell. I guess what I'm tring to say is, can the lines get air in them, and what can I do to remedy this? Everything was good till I shortened the hose. Any time and info on this is GREATLY appreciated. And by the way, our Sponsers get my money first. Again I totally apoligize to anyone that I rubbed wrong.  Lesson learned. 
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ddenton749
Gearhead Posts: 366
From: Kennett Square, PA, USA
Registered: Apr 2004
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posted 04-16-2004 08:09 AM
 
First let me say that I'm not being a smart-aleck in any way, but the top hose doesn't come from the water pump, it comes from the thermostat housing, so I'm assuming that was a typo done in haste.Air is rarely a problem in these cars, it tends to find it's way out on it's own. I don't know which engine you have, but the thermostat in the 289/302 is horizontal. The little hole in the thermostat needs to be at the top to allow air to escape. (The thermostat is the high point.) When you run the car to fill the cooling system, make sure you have the heat on full. It's possible that not all was right before you shortened the hose. It's sounds like circulation could be restricted somewhere. How's the radiator? How's the thermostat? Is there any indication of higher than normal engine temps? In all my motorhead days, I've seen two water pumps go bad where they didn't circulate water. (No leaks) On one in a Caddy, the impeller was loose and spun on the shaft. The car came in because it had a leaking heater core. After the new core was in I discovered that there was no circulation. The heater hoses did not get hot and the car had no heat. It turned out to be the water pump. On the other (It was a long time ago and I think it was a chevy) rust had eaten away the impeller vanes. So, take a good look at the cooling system. The blown upper hose could be a symptom of an underlying problem.
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grourown420
unregistered
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posted 04-16-2004 08:26 AM
EVERYTHING was good, and the bottom heater hose coming out of the firewall goes to the pump. The top hose is on the t-stat houseing. The heater hose on the bottom, from the firewall, is the only thing that was touched, and only shortened about 3 in. I'm just wondering if it got kinked beyond the firewall out of sight? Anyway, thanks for the info, I'll check it for kinks because everything else worked fine before. this. Matter of fact, I turned on the heat, got it. The only thing it can be, is I got it pinched somewhere behind the firewall.
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whiteknight289
Gearhead Posts: 1273
From: Wheaton, IL, USA
Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 04-16-2004 09:17 AM
These cars are too much fun to get mad over!No harm, no foul. Buy where you are comfortable and get good service, stay loyal, lean towards the sponsors when you have a choice.
It really helps when posting a question to include what year and what engine, and in this case with or without air.
If the car is a typical old mustang without air, there would be no need to have the heat set on high to circulate the coolant. Air cars have a vac operated water shut-off valve, standard cars circulate coolant all the time whether the heat is on or not.
Six cylinder cars have different hose routing than v8 cars, usually a heater hose goes to a spacer plate under the carb. On a v8 engine hot water should go from the fitting on top of the intake to the lower connection on the heater core, then past the automatic choke on the carb before going into the water pump. On a six cylinder car hot water comes out of the fitting on the passenger side front corner fitting of the cylinder head, then to the base of the carb, then to the lower connection on the heater core. It returns to the drivers side of the engine next to the thermostat housing. This info provided courtesy of the Ford shop manual for 1966 cars (would be the same 65 - 68).
If I am installing a thermostat and it doesn't have an air bleed hole I drill a 1/8" hole near the outer edge and install it with the hole in the 12 0'clock position. It may not help since it is right next to the by-pass hose, but it doesn't hurt either![This message has been edited by whiteknight289 (edited 04-16-2004).]
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ddenton749
Gearhead Posts: 366
From: Kennett Square, PA, USA
Registered: Apr 2004
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posted 04-16-2004 10:35 AM
I apologize again. After reading your post a second time, I see that you did say heater hose.If you have circulation through the radiator and there's no overheating, look for a restriction like you said.
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66 fastback
Journeyman Posts: 83
From: Califon, NJ 07830
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 04-16-2004 01:37 PM
I have had luck using the temp sensor to bleed air out of the system on my 289. I removed the rad cap, loosened the sensor, and watched carefully around the threads, when coolant appears there, tighten the sensor. You should have to add coolant to top off the system. I also did this again with the engine running, just to be sure.
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grourown420
unregistered
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posted 04-16-2004 09:30 PM
Thanks guys, was beginning to feel like a leper. OK, I have a 68 Coupe, 289 C4, no air. I have a Fail-safe T-stat, if that matters. When I pulled the hose foward, it came out of the firewall about the 3 in. I'm wondering if the hose makes a turn just past the firewall to cause it to pinch? I put my hand up behind the heater unit(?) but could'nt find the hoses anywhere. Any clues where to find the hose on the inside of the car? Don't wanna beat this to death, but I just got the system up to speed. Thanks again to all who take the time to help.
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whiteknight289
Gearhead Posts: 1273
From: Wheaton, IL, USA
Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 04-16-2004 10:15 PM
The hoses should go straight as an arrow thru the firewall and into the heater core - no bends. Of course, this does NOT take into account the possibility of some numbnuts wannabe mechanic doing something strange under the dash. Maybe a previous guy put a big loop under the dash and when you pulled it tight it kinked. Or maybe the core just got completely plugged up. Anyway, in a normal 68 the hoses inside the car should only be about 3-4 inches long.
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grourown420
unregistered
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posted 04-16-2004 10:34 PM
Thanks whiteknight, got circulation or movement in the rad, but the top rad hose just don't get as hard as it did before. Just an idea, but can i just run a piece of hose in like a 1/2 loop out front, and just bypass the core altogether? I live in Nevada, so it don't get so cold that I can't live without heat.
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whiteknight289
Gearhead Posts: 1273
From: Wheaton, IL, USA
Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 04-16-2004 10:58 PM
If you don't want heat, just do like you said and by-pass it. Although unusual, there was a 'heater delete' option in the early mustangs.
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grourown420
unregistered
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posted 04-16-2004 11:05 PM
Thanks again whiteknight, I think I'll try to figure this out tomorrow, but if no luck, I'll try the loop to see what happens. Just really strange that all I did was move that hose forward and now this. I need circulation more than heat, but I do wanna find out what happened. I'll keep ya posted, and I really appreciate your time and info. Thanks again.
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