Author
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Topic: FLOOR PANELS
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TXBOY11 Journeyman Posts: 15 From: HOUSTON,TX, USA Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 04-14-2004 09:43 AM
I took my seats out last night, but didnt get to take the carpet out. I know that the floor panels are gone. My question is, Do I buy the pre-fabbed panels or make them myself out of sheet metal. Which is easier? I think I remember seeing were some of yall have made it clear that the pre-fabbed ones dont exactly fit without alittle work anyhow? My car isnt going to be show quality at this point....But just trying to make it look clean and nice(sunday driver). Thanks for the advise, in advance...GOD BLESSOne more thing....I agree with (DK-prof) this is an awsome web site.....I read as many post all day at work trying to soak in ya'lls knowledge/experience.....Thanks for sharing!!
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ddenton749 Gearhead Posts: 366 From: Kennett Square, PA, USA Registered: Apr 2004
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posted 04-14-2004 10:08 AM
Go with the aftermarket floors. They're not very expensive. Time and a lot of patience are required to make them fit, but it's infinitely better than trying to make your own (unless you have a good metal shop.) I just did the same job on my 73 convertible. Take a look at my site. http://mysite.verizon.net/vze218dp/my73mustangconvert/Good luck!
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gjz30075 Journeyman Posts: 45 From: Roswell, Ga. Registered: Apr 2004
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posted 04-14-2004 10:18 AM
He's right. Go with aftermarket sheetmetal. It'll have all the right ribs and shape. You'll be spending enough time as it is just fitting.
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bill haab Gearhead Posts: 431 From: south bend in. Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 04-14-2004 06:26 PM
NPD SPONCERS US AT M&M. THEY HAVE GREAT SERVICE.
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JDStang Journeyman Posts: 7 From: Salina, Kansas,USA Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 04-14-2004 07:16 PM
Absolutely go with the aftermarket floor pans. Make sure you get pans big enough to cover the rust damage. If you have never welded I would suggest using a mig (wire feed with Argon/CO2 gas) welder. I tried welding my floor pans with a flux-core wire feed welder initially and turned my garage into a 4th of July show. Here is a link to a site that has some good info and visuals on floor pan repair and other tips. http//www.desertmustangs.com/Write-ups.htmGood Luck. -Jim-
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whiteknight289 Gearhead Posts: 1273 From: Wheaton, IL, USA Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 04-14-2004 07:32 PM
Not only will the repro floor pans look better (for better eventual re-sale value) but they will also be stonger. Every place the metal has a rib is to strenghten it. Flat sheet metal will act like the bottom of an old oil can every time you put your foot down. In general, black primered floors are from Taiwan, the bare steel ones are made in North America.------------------ MCA Certified Judge, 1965-1966 66 GT coupe A code, Silver Frost 65 coupe modified - the White Knight 66 convert being restored 95 GT convertible/Cobra clone - black with white leather
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ddenton749 Gearhead Posts: 366 From: Kennett Square, PA, USA Registered: Apr 2004
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posted 04-14-2004 07:55 PM
JDStang is right about the MIG welder. A 110 volt is just fine. The rule is this: If you are welding new and/or clean steel, use solid 0.025 wire and Argon or argon-co2 mix. If you're welding on steel that has paint, rust, grease or oil, use the flux core wire (0.035). The flux helps to keep out inclusions.
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TXBOY11 Journeyman Posts: 15 From: HOUSTON,TX, USA Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 04-15-2004 12:38 PM
Thanks to all of yall. I'll go the pre-fabbed route, and thanks for the weld tips...I cant wait to get some pic so I can show yall. Have a great day.
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ddenton749 Gearhead Posts: 366 From: Kennett Square, PA, USA Registered: Apr 2004
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posted 04-15-2004 01:46 PM
Here's another good web page:http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/8586/floorpan.html
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ddenton749 Gearhead Posts: 366 From: Kennett Square, PA, USA Registered: Apr 2004
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posted 04-15-2004 01:51 PM
And another:http://www.karmustang.com/resto1.htm Read these carefully! Spend some time picking the brain of someone who has done this before.
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