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Author
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Topic: Vacuum Advance Canister
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grourown420
unregistered
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posted 04-06-2004 11:41 PM
 
OK, back on this again. Went to Auto Zone and got a new unit. The guy at the store said it was for a 4 bbl, I have a 2. Will it still work? My book calls for a 67 thru 70, 8 cyl with single vac. That is what I got. Now, I took out the 2 screws, but it still seems to really tight. The only thing left to take out is the cotter pin, correct? Once its disconnected everywhere it should just slide right out and the new unit should just button down in place? I also did the test where you suck into the line and it was like there was'nt even a cannister there. I then blew on the line and I could hear the air coming thru the Dist. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.
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whiteknight289
Gearhead Posts: 1000
From: Wheaton, IL, USA
Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 04-07-2004 12:00 AM
 
Two screws and a "c" clip inside the distributor (next to the points) and it should slide right out.------------------
MCA Certified Judge, 1965-1966
66 GT coupe A code, Silver Frost
65 coupe modified - the White Knight
66 convert being restored
95 GT convertible/Cobra clone - black with white leather
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grourown420
unregistered
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posted 04-07-2004 12:12 AM
Did'nt see the screws on the inside whiteknight, but I'll check it out. Gotta remove the Monte bar so I got some room. Does the cannister sound bad? Also, does it matter about the 4 bbl on the one that I bought? 
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whiteknight289
Gearhead Posts: 1000
From: Wheaton, IL, USA
Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 04-07-2004 12:21 AM
Sorry, I forget that internet typing and email can be sort of cryptic and hard to understand. There should be two slotted-head screws on the outside of the distributor. Sometimes these have been broken off in the past and someone may have repaired them using a phillips-head screw or possibly even a long thing bolt. If the threads underneath are stripped they may have even added a nut underneath the vac. advance unit. Once you have those two pieces of attaching hardware removed you can remove the distributor cap by prying outwards on the two retaining spring clips. Looking inside the distributor you should be able to plainly see where the arm of the vac. advance unit is entering next to the points. The end of the arm goes over a pin, and is held on the pin usually by a "c" shaped clip, but it could also be an "r" shaped retainer. It is best to remove this with a magnetized screwdriver so it doesn't go flying and get lost down inside the distributor housing. Hope this helps!------------------
MCA Certified Judge, 1965-1966
66 GT coupe A code, Silver Frost
65 coupe modified - the White Knight
66 convert being restored
95 GT convertible/Cobra clone - black with white leather [This message has been edited by whiteknight289 (edited 04-07-2004).]
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grourown420
unregistered
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posted 04-07-2004 12:29 AM
Thanks whiteknight, You did very good on the info. I always get noid when it comes to stuff like this. OK, just ran outta daylight but I'll get on this first thing and let you know how everything goes. Thanks again for the info. 
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grourown420
unregistered
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posted 04-08-2004 12:40 AM
SUCCESS, and man what a difference! Thank you whiteknight, for your info and patience, and thanks to everyone who took the time to help, I could NOT have done this alone. Just gotta dial it in and put in some new plugs to be safe. I just cannot believe the difference, like night and day. Even the little miss I had seems to be gone. Thank again everybody, what a team. 
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grourown420
unregistered
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posted 04-11-2004 10:40 PM
OK, now that I have the canister in, should I make any adjustments on it, or is it calibrated from get? I still have a slight miss from something even after going with the Autolite 45's. If I can or should adjust it, how do I do it? The only thing I have NOT done so far, is put it on the light. Everything else is new as far as tune-up items go, and I have it running fairly good, but I know there is more horses to be harnessed. Any info or comments on this is not only welcome, but appreciated.
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