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Author Topic:   Doors
grourown420
unregistered
posted 04-06-2004 12:26 AM           Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Waiting on my bushings for my shifter handle, so I thought I would do something else worthwhile. How do I get the doors to flush when they are shut. The driver's side goes in about an 1/8 to 3/16 past where it should stop. The passenger side flushes out, but it's not tight. Also, if I lift up on that door it seems to shut better. Dumb question, but do they sell kits for this? I have'nt ever really thought about it till now. Any info on this is greatly appreciated.

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Fastback68
Gearhead

Posts: 2951
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99

posted 04-06-2004 03:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastback68   Click Here to Email Fastback68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Have you got the full sets of rubbers on both doors - both on the doors themselves and also in the door frames. If either one is missing, it could let the door go in too far.
As for the door that likes being lifted up, it sounds like one or both of the hinges could be shot. You can test this simply by opening the door and seeing how much up and down movement you have. Any more than a very little means it's time to overhaul the hinges. Replacement bushing kits are available from NPD, but installing them is not a job for the average do-it-yourselfer.

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grourown420
unregistered
posted 04-06-2004 03:51 AM           Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Got rubber everywhere, worn out but it's there. Also I noticed on where the doors and fenders meet, there's hardly any gap, but where it meets the q-panel, it's almost a 1/4. It's on both sides like that. I always thought they used something like a guage to make sure all the cracks on the hood, trunk and doors were aal the same all the way around. Do you know what I'm talking about? Anyway Fastback 68, thanks for your time and info. I have a 68 Coupe by the way. Just on the tip of the mountain of what is to come.

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grourown420
unregistered
posted 04-06-2004 12:14 PM           Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Just ordered the door strips today, but I have a question. The post that the door closes on, is it adjustable? It has 2 hugh phillip screws that hold it into place, but it looks like it was in a different spot before. I checked the hinges and they are not too bad, but they will have to be replaced. Any more info on this will be helpful. I cannot always rely on the destructions with some of these parts. Thank again.

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lreeder
Gearhead

Posts: 112
From: Houston, TX 77090
Registered: Jul 2003

posted 04-06-2004 02:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for lreeder   Click Here to Email lreeder     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yes, the strikers are adjustable. That's where you can get some in and out (and to some extent, up and down) adjustment on the quarter to door alignment. You will probably need an impact screwdriver to loosen them though.

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whiteknight289
Gearhead

Posts: 1000
From: Wheaton, IL, USA
Registered: Mar 2004

posted 04-06-2004 07:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for whiteknight289   Click Here to Email whiteknight289     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
To check your door hinges, open the door about 12 inches, crouch down and CUP your hands as if you were going to give someone a leg-up. Then cradle the door in your hands (at the very back corner, lower edge) and very gently try to rock the door up and down. Any up and down movement means you need to replace your dooe hinge bushings.
Scott

------------------
MCA Certified Judge, 1965-1966
66 GT coupe A code, Silver Frost
65 coupe modified - the White Knight
66 convert being restored
95 GT convertible/Cobra clone - black with white leather

[This message has been edited by whiteknight289 (edited 04-06-2004).]

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grourown420
unregistered
posted 04-06-2004 10:21 PM           Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks guys, and yes I do have an impact (the kind you hit with a hammer). I tried the way you said whiteknight, and I have about an 1/8 in. gap when I raise it up. I'm hoping the rubber will band-aid enough till paint time. Thanks again for your time and info guys.

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grourown420
unregistered
posted 04-08-2004 12:47 AM           Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Was just looking at the rubber and can't see how to take it off unless I just start tearing it at one end. Also, does the rubber come with a self-sticking back or do I glue it some how? Never did this before. ANY info on this will be very helpful. Thanks in advance.

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whiteknight289
Gearhead

Posts: 1000
From: Wheaton, IL, USA
Registered: Mar 2004

posted 04-08-2004 12:51 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for whiteknight289   Click Here to Email whiteknight289     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The weatherstripping is glued to the door, so you will have to scrape the old one off. Use 3M brand Super weatherstrip adhesive, available at your local parts store. They make it in yellow or black, get the black, it blends in better so you can't see the excess. READ the instructions on the tube and FOLLOW them. You will need to clean the mold-release agent off the new weatherstrip before the glue will adhere to it. I use a cloth lightly soaked in laquer thinner and draw the weatherstrip thru the rag. Thinner is a fairly hot solvent and can melt the weatherstrip if you let it stay on for any length of time, key is to just wipe with it.

------------------
MCA Certified Judge, 1965-1966
66 GT coupe A code, Silver Frost
65 coupe modified - the White Knight
66 convert being restored
95 GT convertible/Cobra clone - black with white leather

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grourown420
unregistered
posted 04-08-2004 12:58 AM           Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks for the heads up on that whiteknight, I'll stop by the Zone tomorrow and see what they got. Should have my stuff Fri or Sat.

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