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Author
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Topic: No overheating, just boilover
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65blowncoupe
Journeyman Posts: 13
From: Paola, KS
Registered: Apr 2004
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posted 04-05-2004 08:45 AM
   
Trying to find out what is going on. I have a brand new rebuilt engine that is blueprinted and balanced and a small roots blower. I have a New 4 core aluminum radiator with spall fan. The only thing not new is the water pump and heads. The heads were ported and checked, the valve seats hardened. Anyway the problem I am having is that the antifreeze blows out into the overflow and fills the overflow bottle and then dumps out into hose to the ground. The engine maintains 160deg the whole time driving but during the 15-20 minutes of driving the water is escaping the radiator and going into the overflow bottle which get over full and pumps out onto the ground while I am driving then eventually due to the lack of water in the system my temp starts to climb and climb so I have to shut it off let it cool and refill radiator again. I am not sure what the cap lbs are but it feels close to a 16lb cap I have. What do you guys think is going on? I will post a picture of the engine here. http://www.brigadegunleather.com/engine.html
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trashline
Gearhead Posts: 1217
From: Levittown, Pa
Registered: Dec 2003
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posted 04-05-2004 08:57 AM
well two things your post to the site doesnt work so we cant see your perddy motor. and second im no mechanic but id say change caps. the pressure is to great for the cap you have so go up in pounds on it. then if it starts to over heat id say you have some other problem. start with the cheap things ya know------------------
1966 mustang coupe
200ci 3 speed tranny
msd 6a ignition, blaster 2 coil, 2 inch exhaust to a glass pac, stock rear,coming soon single out header,and cold air intake (homemade).
white w/ black interior
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 2305
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 04-05-2004 09:04 AM
Sounds like a head gasket to me. I hope not, but I'd say the cylinder pressure under boost is causing the gasket to leak. I've had similar problems using nitrous on 302's. Those 10 tiny 7/16" head bolts just don't work well on boosted applications. EVERY precaution needs to be taken. You need ARP head bolts and top quality gaskets to use much boost at all. Plus, make sure the heads have a perfectly flat surface.
Good Luck!------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
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65blowncoupe
Journeyman Posts: 13
From: Paola, KS
Registered: Apr 2004
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posted 04-05-2004 09:13 AM
Just for clarification. I saw the steel o-ring head gaskets go on the heads (which were shaved 10thousands flat) when they put the motor together. They were designed for blowers and recommended by holley supercharger division. Also I had them use ARP main studs and nuts for the caps and ARP studs and nuts for the heads as well. Also the motor has only about 50 miles on it.[This message has been edited by 65blowncoupe (edited 04-05-2004).]
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whiteknight289
Gearhead Posts: 1000
From: Wheaton, IL, USA
Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 04-05-2004 09:24 AM
Definately look into the radiator cap, and you won't be able to tell if its good just by feel. Stock cap is rated at 13 pounds pressure and should remain sealed and seated until your coolant starts to really heat up. Then the pressure will cause the cap to release and dump into your overflow. You shouldn't be building up that much pressure when you are still under 200 degrees. When full and cool, the coolant should be about 1" below the radiator neck.------------------
MCA Certified Judge, 1965-1966
66 GT coupe A code, Silver Frost
65 coupe modified - the White Knight
66 convert being restored
95 GT convertible/Cobra clone - black with white leather
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Rickster
Journeyman Posts: 5
From: Northville, MI
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 04-06-2004 07:40 PM
Pics are nice, you have a sweet set up! I agree with replacing the cap, if you've verified temp maintains 160 deg then easiest place to start is changing radiator cap. Also check the cap's rubber seal and mating surface in the radiator are clean and even. How about the depth of the cap, is it comming fully into contact with the radaitor?
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