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Author
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Topic: Monte Carlo Bars Rock!
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'66fastback
Journeyman Posts: 22
From: San Anselmo, CA
Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 04-01-2004 02:11 AM
   
My A code '66 was BONE STOCK original until last week-
I've been reluctant to mess with it for that reason but after several years I finally decided to play with it...
So, I've replaced the carb with a 600 CFM Holly, Try-Y headers and a straight Monte Carlo bar.The car is a lot faster off the line and sounds great (aside from some vibration from the Tri-Y's bumping against the bell housing (I've gotta work on that!) I must say, however, the single greatest improvement was the Monte Carlo bar! The thing was a drag to install- a 6 hour job! I had to hang the car on jackstands to even remotely get the mounting holes to line up. It's amazing to me how the simplest jobs become the most time consuming.. The car handles SO MUCH BETTER! It had a tendency to "float" on uneven hiways at 70+; now it feels like a new car. It's much tighter around the twisties. It's no Lotus Elan, but what an improvement!
And only 18 bucks! I spent more on matching chrome bolts and washers than I did on the bar!
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whiteknight289
Gearhead Posts: 1000
From: Wheaton, IL, USA
Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 04-01-2004 07:13 AM
Congrats on the improvements! Since you've started down the path of improvements, the next few things I'd recommend is a simple electronic ignition, Pertronics Ignitor, it only takes one extra wire to hook up to your stock coil and uses your stock cap & rotor. Since you've got the MC bar, I'd also do the Export Brace. Shocks I would instaill are the KYB brand, their silver GR2 series. These are better than stock but not too harsh like the GasAdjusts are.
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senzstang
Gearhead Posts: 237
From: perry, oh, usa
Registered: May 2002
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posted 04-01-2004 08:13 AM
You might want to think about getting your fron end re-alingned now. If your shock towers were leaning in that far and now are pushed back out, the alignment may be off.I also agree with whiteknight. Get an electronic ignition. I used a Crane unit - what a difference in start up and idle. Fits right under the disty cap and is less than $70. Phil
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Hell_Fish
Gearhead Posts: 860
From: Austin, TX.
Registered: May 2002
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posted 04-01-2004 08:53 AM
Pick up a export brace as well. It helps even more.------------------
Dustin C
"The Mopar Guy!"
CRC Motorsports
56 F-100
Mech. for wifes 69 Mustang coupe
65 Plymouth Barracuda
70 Dodge Swinger
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hgufrin
Journeyman Posts: 37
From: North Carolina
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 04-01-2004 12:14 PM
66fastback,can you explain the "getting the mounting holes to line up"... part? does this mean that the engine bay walls were spread too far apart to bolt right up? ... you had to squeeze the two walls together? interesting to me because i never thought you'd notice that much of an improvement. thx.
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Hell_Fish
Gearhead Posts: 860
From: Austin, TX.
Registered: May 2002
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posted 04-01-2004 02:02 PM
hgufrin, on my 69, we had to spead the shock towers apart to get the bars in there. ------------------
Dustin C
"The Mopar Guy!"
CRC Motorsports
56 F-100
Mech. for wifes 69 Mustang coupe
65 Plymouth Barracuda
70 Dodge Swinger
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Stang28965
Gearhead Posts: 450
From: Webster New York USA
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 04-01-2004 02:22 PM
Yup, Our shock towers tend to sag in over the years. I had to jack mine up in the middle to let them sag back out, Then I had to use a rubber hammer and tighten the bar into place.
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'66fastback
Journeyman Posts: 22
From: San Anselmo, CA
Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 04-01-2004 02:58 PM
The shock towers were too close together. Even with the upper mounting bolts on each side of the bar torked down, the lower holes refused to line up.
Lots of cursing and prying before it finally did. Loosening fender bolts helped, as well as letting the car hang on the jackstands for a few hours.
I'll have to post some before and after shots of the engine compartment.
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grourown420
unregistered
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posted 04-01-2004 04:03 PM
Wow, I guess I was lucky, mine went right in on my 68 Coupe. My only regret was not getting the curved one. I did have to drill 4 holes where the top attached to the fenders, but that was easy. Where did you find one for 10 bucks? 
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grourown420
unregistered
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posted 04-01-2004 04:06 PM
Sorry, I see that it was 18 bucks. The eyes are'nt so good anymore. 
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Rickster
Journeyman Posts: 5
From: Northville, MI
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 04-06-2004 07:45 PM
Why the regrets on not getting the curved one?
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adragon8u
Gearhead Posts: 4768
From: Oceano, Ca. member# 2895
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 04-06-2004 08:39 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Rickster:
Why the regrets on not getting the curved one?
Probably have to remove the bar to pull the distributor I think.------------------
"I started with nothing, and I still have most of it left"
http://webpages.charter.net/adragon8u/mystang
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pmhvps
Gearhead Posts: 427
From: Lowville,Ontario,Canada
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 04-08-2004 09:12 AM
quote:
Originally posted by grourown420:
Wow, I guess I was lucky, mine went right in on my 68 Coupe. My only regret was not getting the curved one. I did have to drill 4 holes where the top attached to the fenders, but that was easy. Where did you find one for 10 bucks?
Why did you have to drill holes....on the 68 all the holes are there.
Mike.
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 2047
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 04-08-2004 09:50 AM
quote:
Originally posted by adragon8u:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Rickster:
[b]Why the regrets on not getting the curved one?
Probably have to remove the bar to pull the distributor I think. [/B][/QUOTE]That's probably true. But if you have a dependable dizzy in there, it's not likely that you'll be wanting/needing to pull it too often. As far as the bar goes, remember, "When it's straight, it's much more stiff" ...which is what we all want!  Ryan 
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adragon8u
Gearhead Posts: 4768
From: Oceano, Ca. member# 2895
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 04-08-2004 12:27 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Ryan Wilke:
remember, "When it's straight, it's much more stiff" ...which is what we all want! Ryan
That's what my wife says!  ------------------
"I started with nothing, and I still have most of it left"
http://webpages.charter.net/adragon8u/mystang
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bibbs68
Gearhead Posts: 1554
From: Jackson, TN
Registered: Sep 2000
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posted 04-08-2004 05:52 PM
quote:
Originally posted by adragon8u:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Ryan Wilke:
[b] remember, "When it's straight, it's much more stiff" ...which is what we all want! Ryan
That's what my wife says! [/B][/QUOTE] DOH!!! ------------------
Jeremy
'68 Coupe
M&M Member #685
MCA Member #49134
Help make the world a better place, drive a Ford and race a slot car!
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clipper25usa
Journeyman Posts: 43
From: Lake Stevens, Washington
Registered: Apr 2004
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posted 04-09-2004 12:18 PM
I bought one, but haven't instlled it yet. It was mentioned that all 68s had all the holes already there. Mine does not, so either I drill them on the top or just use the two on the vertical part of the inner fender. Anyone see a down fall to not drilling out the holes? Will I get the full benefit out of the bar?
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68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 2194
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 04-23-2004 03:50 PM
quote:
Originally posted by pmhvps:
Why did you have to drill holes....on the 68 all the holes are there.
Mike.
Never saw any 67 or 68s with holes on the top of the aprons. On my FB the only two holes I could get lined up were the ones on the vertical flange near the top. I had to drill 6 holes.  Now I see that some vendors have year specific Monte Carlo bars. [This message has been edited by 68 S-code GT (edited 04-23-2004).]
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1969Fastback
Gearhead Posts: 115
From: Marcola, Oregon USA
Registered: Apr 2004
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posted 04-23-2004 06:26 PM
On my 69 the bottom holes lined up and I had to drill out the top holes on the side of the shock tower. Also had to drill the holes on top of the fender apron. It was a chore but with time and patience it looks good. Had not noticed any inprovement per say. ------------------
69 Sportroof 351W 4V FMX Chrome Yellow
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Fastback68
Gearhead Posts: 2951
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 04-23-2004 08:03 PM
The bar I'm currently using doesn't have flanges to go over the tops of the inner fenders. It just uses the shock tower bolt holes.
There's no way it can slip down inside. Personally I don't think the flanges at the top serve any purpose.
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grourown420
unregistered
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posted 04-25-2004 12:11 AM
Sorry guys, I just checked this thread again, and on my bar, the 2 holes on the top didnt line up with nuttin. So I put in all the other ones, tightened it down where it was, and drilled right where they were into the top of the fender. I would think the straight one is morre rigid, but you are right about the Dist. I'm getting ready to take it back off for the new Dist, Intake and 4 bbl. Once I get everything dialed in, I will love the bar. Right now, pain in th a$$. PEACE
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Hell_Fish
Gearhead Posts: 860
From: Austin, TX.
Registered: May 2002
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posted 04-26-2004 11:29 AM
The straight one will be more solid, but I would bet that the inner fenders will collapse before the curved bar will.------------------
Dustin C
"The Mopar Guy!"
CRC Motorsports
56 F-100
Mech. for wifes 69 Mustang coupe
65 Plymouth Barracuda
70 Dodge Swinger
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460-67Stang
Gearhead Posts: 288
From: Southern Ohio, USA
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 04-27-2004 10:33 PM
Yup, I gree...Monte Carlo Bar, Export Brace, and a big sway bar were some of the best mods I've ever done. It's amaxing to feel the impromenet in handling. Well worth the minimal expense and (sometimes) big hassle.
Brian
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