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  holes in the floor any welding tips for a newbie?

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Author Topic:   holes in the floor any welding tips for a newbie?
trashline
Gearhead

Posts: 286
From: Levittown, Pa
Registered: Dec 2003

posted 02-01-2004 10:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for trashline   Click Here to Email trashline     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
well i when i bought the car i didnt see any holes in the floor it all looked good but when i replaced my carpet i found on the passenger side a hole about 8 inched by 3 right where the slopped floor baords turn into the flat boards. ive never welded but like twice. and that was scrap metal. does anybody have any tips or ideas for me? i will order the right floor pans but i want to do it myself bc i feel i need to learn. i have a torch i can use too. my uncles shop. i figured id investigate this topic before i asked him to help. thanks Brian

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66fstbck
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Posts: 156
From: Worhtington, Pa. USA
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 02-01-2004 10:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66fstbck     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well Brian, I had never welded before I did both sides of my Fastback's floor and trunk. It's really easy with a mig welder, especially one with the argon/CO2 gas !!! If you're looking for just a nice strong patch, then only cut out the bad area and mig in a patch. The way I did it was to cut a piece of sheetmetal the exact same size as the cut out, and then seam weld it in place. After you grind, prime, paint and undercoat the bottom side, it looks like new. Good Luck

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Alan 66 Fastback

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trashline
Gearhead

Posts: 286
From: Levittown, Pa
Registered: Dec 2003

posted 02-01-2004 10:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for trashline   Click Here to Email trashline     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
but see its an angled piece thats what im worried about. wwhere the front floor meets the bottom floor but i have to get all kinds of stuff first paint and what not. but thats the only part of the fllor boards thats bad surprising . but i have a feeling when i pull the entire carpet i will find problems emerging thanks for the info though allen.
Brian

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cynot65
Gearhead

Posts: 1058
From: New York
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 02-02-2004 10:33 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for cynot65   Click Here to Email cynot65     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Dude you're going to find all kinds of things. No matter what the size, Get the floor panels and do what allan says. Cut out a piece big enough to cover the hole and then make sure you cut your piece from the new one big enough to cover the area. You mention a torch. what kind of torch are you talking about? Welding is the way to go.
Good luck
Tony C*

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65 Convertible, Vintage Burgandy/Standard Black Interior, 289, 4spd
M&M Member#450
It ain't done yet, but it'll be done right!!

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trashline
Gearhead

Posts: 286
From: Levittown, Pa
Registered: Dec 2003

posted 02-02-2004 01:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for trashline   Click Here to Email trashline     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
not positive on what welding instrument id be using should i go from the outside and weld it or the inside? my uncle (rebuilt a 55 chevy prostreet) has the tools so im going to guess he has all the right stuff bc he did it himself so

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66fstbck
Gearhead

Posts: 156
From: Worhtington, Pa. USA
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 02-02-2004 02:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 66fstbck     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Brian, I took the advise of alot of guys in that the object is to save as much of the original metal as possible. If you buy the complete floorpans, you can cut what you need from them and you will have the proper shape. My fronts needed to be completely replaced but I was able to piece the back floors in. In any event, save as much of the transmission tunnel as possible. I even cut around the seat belt mounting holes to preserve them. I mig welded mine from the inside and then cleaned up the underside for painting and undercoat.

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Alan 66 Fastback

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trashline
Gearhead

Posts: 286
From: Levittown, Pa
Registered: Dec 2003

posted 02-02-2004 07:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for trashline   Click Here to Email trashline     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
ok i got that part thanks for the help guys

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 37235
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 02-02-2004 07:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You don't want to use a torch, it will overheat and warp the panels, besides not being a strong weld. You want to Mig weld the new panels in. Also, it's much easier to weld down, as in inside the car, because welding overhead is harder and it hurts!

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip

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ekbeanctr
Gearhead

Posts: 478
From: Middlebury, IN USA
Registered: Dec 2000

posted 02-02-2004 09:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ekbeanctr   Click Here to Email ekbeanctr     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Alos, Another tip, when MIG welding make sure you get the old and new metal really clean before you start welding. It also is a lot easier if you invest in the self darkening helmet. Tack weld the patches in first so it fits nice and tight all the way around, and then go back and fill in. If you don't want to weld from the outside (bottom) after you are done inside, get some good seam sealer and coat the seams thoroughly.

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Have a Wonderful Day
CandyApple 65 Fastback
351W, Hooker Super Comps,4 Speed
Versaille 9" Rear End
Global West Front End
[email protected]
http://photo.starblvd.net/Ekbeanctr

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 37235
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 02-03-2004 08:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Also, to prevent warping only weld about an inch at a time, then weld the opposite side to let the welds cool.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip

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trashline
Gearhead

Posts: 286
From: Levittown, Pa
Registered: Dec 2003

posted 02-03-2004 09:46 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for trashline   Click Here to Email trashline     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
wow thanks for all the tips guys, i will deffinetly use them. this probably wont happen for another month but it willl happen im gonna get the car steam cleaned to get all the dirt off and then replace all the bad spots i will just do the entire floor and this will probably be them time when i fill in all the welds that are coming out over the paint.

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 37235
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 02-03-2004 09:51 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Remember any hole you see will usually be about 5x larger once it's all cleaned up.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip

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trashline
Gearhead

Posts: 286
From: Levittown, Pa
Registered: Dec 2003

posted 02-03-2004 09:55 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for trashline   Click Here to Email trashline     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
wow really well the hole im worried about is the one on the passenger right below the cowl its about 8 x 3 not that big but its on an angle so i need to bend a piece ... dont want anybody falling out haha

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