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Author
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Topic: I'm Really Lucky, But.....
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horseballz
Gearhead Posts: 287
From: LasVegas,NV
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 01-31-2004 02:06 PM
   
Heidi-Ho,
After removing the AC/Heater assembly and all of the other under dash stuff on my 68 Coupe I have found I am lucky that my cowl is not rotted!!  There is, however, a slight to fair amount of surface rust (little match head sized spots) that are visible around the inside of the collar and around the bottom of the collar due to the well known fact that these areas never got painted or even primered  at the factory. All is very solid and not crusty and I want to keep it that way! Obviously, I can sand and paint/seal what I can see and touch, but does any body have any ideas on what I can do to address the upper outer portions of the collar  and the horizontal cowl surfaces around them that are not visible or touchable? Is there something that I could spray, pour, or slobber through the upper cowl grill and/or up through vent collar from inside, or must I simply resign myself to at least cutting open  the ends of the cowl cover (hidden by the fenders which are already removed) and dealing with it that way?? This Coupe is so amazingly rust free that I hate to have to cut it and weld it back in, but I really want to prevent having a rust problem in this area in the future. As always all ideas and suggestions are welcome and appreciated.
TIA,
Gene------------------
To quote my big brother: "Gettin' Old Ain't For Sissies"
'68 coupe
289/3speed out getting ready for paint and new 5.0/T5
'85 F150 Beater
300/Overdrive Stick
Pre-dented&scratched
'02 Ranger 4x4 Edge
'02 Miata
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lonewolf
Gearhead Posts: 262
From: Colorado
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 02-01-2004 09:34 PM
Gene,Try Picklex 20. It will neutralize/convert what rust is there. http://www.picklex20.com/ Then, if you can get into it, I would shoot it with some Zero Rust. You might have to use one of the wand sprayers they use for undercoat inside doors but that process will take care of the rust. http://www.zerorust.com/ Hope this helps. Rick
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horseballz
Gearhead Posts: 287
From: LasVegas,NV
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 02-02-2004 02:28 PM
Rick,
Sounds like a great idea, exactly what I was hoping for. Have you or anyone you know used the Picklex 20,and if so, how well does paint adhere to it? I spoke to a representative from ICP and he claims , of course, that paint adheres well but I would like to hear about some real world users' results. Any ideas on where I could find a wand sprayer? I can't seem to find one through Eastwood.
Thanks for the info,
Gene
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lonewolf
Gearhead Posts: 262
From: Colorado
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 02-02-2004 06:07 PM
Gene,I used the system inside my frame rails (Picklex then Zero Rust) and it worked like a champ. The guys on the autobody list that I frequent swear by the stuff. Alot of folks will take a stripped body, apply the Picklex, then follow over the top with an epoxy primer after the picklex has dried. I am planning on doing it to my body when I get that far. Cheers, Rick
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lonewolf
Gearhead Posts: 262
From: Colorado
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 02-02-2004 06:15 PM
Oh, forgot the other question. I have seen one of the sprayers, just need to remember where. I will dig some when I get home from work tonight and let you know.
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lonewolf
Gearhead Posts: 262
From: Colorado
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 02-03-2004 10:46 AM
Gene,I found this one in Eastwood's Catalog last night: http://www.eastwoodcompany.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=16019+Z&Dep_Key1= That's the complete kit but they have a sprayer with the wand in it. I bet if you called them, they would be able to sell you just the sprayer. I also talked to my neighbor last night and he told me he used a deck stain sprayer on the inside of his doors. He said it didn't look that great but it covered well and no one will see it anyway. Cheers, Rick
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BornInAFord
Gearhead Posts: 471
From: Bend, OR, USA
Registered: Dec 2002
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posted 02-03-2004 11:33 AM
It splatters a bit, but I've used the plastic extenders (like the ones found on WD-40 cans or cans of "Dust-off"). You can bend them to fit in areas you can't reach. The bad thing is that they are not very long (maybe 6"?). The good thing is that they are not very long (maybe 6"?).  It's all relative--I can reach in areas the longer and non-bendable wands can never get and you can stick the can right up through the "hat" (vent collar), bend down the spray extender, and shoot. Just make SURE you don't use a used WD-40 plastic extender, or nothing will stick. 
Daniel
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lonewolf
Gearhead Posts: 262
From: Colorado
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 02-03-2004 02:39 PM
quote:
Originally posted by BornInAFord:
It splatters a bit, but I've used the plastic extenders (like the ones found on WD-40 cans or cans of "Dust-off"). You can bend them to fit in areas you can't reach. The bad thing is that they are not very long (maybe 6"?). The good thing is that they are not very long (maybe 6"?). It's all relative--I can reach in areas the longer and non-bendable wands can never get and you can stick the can right up through the "hat" (vent collar), bend down the spray extender, and shoot. Just make SURE you don't use a used WD-40 plastic extender, or nothing will stick.
Daniel
That's a pretty good idea for using between the bars in the cowl cover. It would give better control than the wand sprayer stuck up in the drain holes. I have a spray bomb of Zero Rust at home so I will have to take a look to see if it will take tube or if I would need to pirate a tip from the WD-40 as well.
Cheers, Rick
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horseballz
Gearhead Posts: 287
From: LasVegas,NV
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 02-04-2004 11:06 AM
Rick & Daniel,
Thank you for the greta ideas. It gives me several options that when combined should allow me to poduce my desired results. I also found that the sprayer/wand setup is available seperately at Eastwood: http://www.eastwoodcompany.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=16003&Dep_Key1=
Thanks Again,
Gene
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