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  anyone have any experience w/roller conversions?

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Author Topic:   anyone have any experience w/roller conversions?
BornInAFord
Gearhead

Posts: 471
From: Bend, OR, USA
Registered: Dec 2002

posted 01-26-2004 04:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BornInAFord     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Anyone out there have any experience with roller cam conversions? I am considering it as one option on my rebuild. Advantages? Disadvantages?
OR, does it just make more sense to returnt to a higher duration, higher lift hydraulic like Comp270H or 262H?
TIA,
Daniel

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 18590
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 01-26-2004 04:41 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I looked in to it with my budget rebuild I'm going to do. The builder really likes using them for two reasons. He says they free up alittle power and allow you run a hotter cam and still have a smooth idle.The other reason is that there is no cam break in needed he said more people wreck new good motors by not breaking them in right.So the last one makes his job more easy. He went on to say like many others on here told me. That unless it was a real HOT motor that would see high RPM's or my budget was bigger it would not be worth the gain.And the money would be better spent on other things.
Just my opinion

What cam do you run now ?

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SCOOP

If you don't know where you're going, you'll end up somewhere else."

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

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BornInAFord
Gearhead

Posts: 471
From: Bend, OR, USA
Registered: Dec 2002

posted 01-26-2004 11:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BornInAFord     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks for the advice... I don't mind breaking in a cam (a proper rebuild should be broken in slowly anyway, IMO). The current cam is either a lazy 1970 2BBL smog cam (in 1988 the engine was put in as a rebuilt shortblock exchange, with the original heads and 4bbl carb and manifold(s) put back on) or the stock 1966 grind, with a duration of 182I/187E, and lift of 0.368/0.380. Any wonder I want to change it out? It performs well with a 4spd and 4.11 rear, but I am putting in a D&D 2.95 T5 in it and thought to change other things while I'm at it.

I am actually tempted to put in a new roller block with a micropolished 302 crank (already have), forged pistons (already have), an E303 cam (already have), Edelbrock Aluminum heads (already have, with aluminum 1.7 roller rockers) and Edelbrock performer RPM intake/600CFM carb. This way, if I get lazy, I can install a FI system, too. Do you see my dilema???
Daniel

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Tom G
Gearhead

Posts: 573
From: Bethlehem, Pa USA
Registered: Nov 2001

posted 01-27-2004 03:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tom G   Click Here to Email Tom G     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BornInAFord:
Thanks for the advice... I don't mind breaking in a cam (a proper rebuild should be broken in slowly anyway, IMO). The current cam is either a lazy 1970 2BBL smog cam (in 1988 the engine was put in as a rebuilt shortblock exchange, with the original heads and 4bbl carb and manifold(s) put back on) or the stock 1966 grind, with a duration of 182I/187E, and lift of 0.368/0.380. Any wonder I want to change it out? It performs well with a 4spd and 4.11 rear, but I am putting in a D&D 2.95 T5 in it and thought to change other things while I'm at it.

I am actually tempted to put in a new roller block with a micropolished 302 crank (already have), forged pistons (already have), an E303 cam (already have), Edelbrock Aluminum heads (already have, with aluminum 1.7 roller rockers) and Edelbrock performer RPM intake/600CFM carb. This way, if I get lazy, I can install a FI system, too. Do you see my dilema???
Daniel


What cylinder heads RPM or just performerheads? would you be using with that shortblock? Sounds like you have a good setup in mind
I have similiar setup now check the signature I have B303 cam in mine as it is a FRPP crate engine I have a WC t-5 with 4.11 and it runs great. I also have a 600 Holley on an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap port matched to the Heads. 13.39@104 mph on skinny BFG 205 70 r14s and 40 degree track temps. Iknow I'm undercarbed for the motor but I have even tried any tuning yet.

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67 Mustang Shelby clone F/B 302 GT-40X FMS Crate engine 5 spd cable clutch 13.39 on 205/70/14 BFG @104 mph Flowmasters X Pipe 4.11 9". BIG Body shop NOW! 03 Focus ZX3 BORLA exhaust Wings West spoiler (Arrest ME RED)

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 18590
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 01-27-2004 04:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/007294.html

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SCOOP

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 18590
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 01-27-2004 04:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Tom those are great times.


"Do you see my dilema???
Daniel"
Seems to me like a great dilema to have.

------------------
SCOOP

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

[This message has been edited by Fastymz (edited 01-27-2004).]

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Red65
Gearhead

Posts: 115
From: Northglenn, CO, USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 01-27-2004 05:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Red65   Click Here to Email Red65     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I just put a Comp-Cams retro-roller set-up in my 289. It was pretty straight-forward, with a little extra care involved while drilling the holes for the spider.

I've got Performer RPM heads with 1.90 valves, Comp roller rockers, Performer RPM intake, Holley Street Avenger 670 carb, Tri-Y's, MSD Billet distributor and 6AL box on a stock bottom end going through a Top-Loader. Haven't got it running yet, as I decided I need to detail the engine compartment before I drop in the motor.

I was also a bit spooky drilling steam vent holes through the deck to match the vent holes on the heads. Broke off three drill bits and had to fish them out of the water jacket.

Rich

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BornInAFord
Gearhead

Posts: 471
From: Bend, OR, USA
Registered: Dec 2002

posted 01-27-2004 10:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BornInAFord     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:

"Do you see my dilema???
Daniel"
Seems to me like a great dilema to have.

[/B]


Yeah, but it's hard to budget for it, particularly since my wife is busy expanding HER budget...

Tom, Yeah, they're RPMs--I bought them used a track season, mildly (probably stage I) ported, with stainless valves and the 1.7 Crane aluminum rollers. They also have double valve springs, so someone set them up to run, then ran out of money. If I build this engine, I will have to have it on the stand and add pieces as the budget will allow. No time for impatience, especially on the bottom end.
I don't know if it will go into my 66 though. Knowing my wife's family, they might smother me in my sleep if I mess up "their" car. (j/k)

Daniel

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nash
Journeyman

Posts: 96
From: Nashville, TN, USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 01-28-2004 12:33 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for nash   Click Here to Email nash     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I am doing the comp cam kit now, and was curious the instruction say to drill the hole 3/8" deep and then tap with a bottom tap. Then the bolts provided have a small taper on the bottom and at best I am only getting 2-3 threads of bolt in th block. How did this work for you?

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Red65
Gearhead

Posts: 115
From: Northglenn, CO, USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 01-28-2004 06:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Red65   Click Here to Email Red65     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I had more than 2 threads engaged, but it wasn't much more. As a rule-of-thumb, you want your thread engagement to be at least equal to the diameter of the threads. The first couple of threads of a bolt carries almost all of the load in a bolted connection.

You do have to squeeze the spider down onto the lifter valley. I also used Loc-tite blue on it to keep them secure. The casting boss on the back half of the block isn't in the best place either, but I was able to drill a hole into the middle of it.

If you're uncomfortable with the thread engagement length, I would run to the hardware store for a machine screw with slightly longer and straight-cut threads. Just make sure you don't drill any deeper than you have to, or you may get into the cam bearings.

[This message has been edited by Red65 (edited 01-28-2004).]

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 18590
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 01-29-2004 04:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BornInAFord:
Yeah, but it's hard to budget for it, particularly since my wife is busy expanding HER budget...

Daniel


Yup I know all to well about both facts.

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SCOOP

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

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