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Author
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Topic: Cowl Vent Repair
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kingskid17
Journeyman Posts: 9
From: Sylva, NC, USA
Registered: Jan 2004
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posted 01-17-2004 11:27 PM
   
I have a problem I hope someone might have some advise for. I made a big boo-boo. I have always wanted a vintage model Mustang. I found one several months ago and bought it. Seemed to be in decent shape. I had a friend look at it who knows a fair amount about classic cars, but not specifically Mustangs and he told me it was in good shape. Anyway, I had a budget and knew it had a leak. I assumed weatherstripping. To make a long story shorter. One of the first things I did was a paint job because Iwanted to make sure I had the money to do that and now I realize I have a cowl leak. Does anyone know of a way to fix it without tearing out the cowl cover and fenders. I cannot afford to do that now. Is there something that can temporarily fix it for a year or two til I can afford to do this? Any advise is very much appreciated. This has been my dream come true!
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lonewolf
Gearhead Posts: 249
From: Colorado
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 01-18-2004 12:00 AM
Hi Kingskid17 and welcome!Are you just leaking or is there rust too? If there is rust, I hate to tell you, but you would be better tearing it apart and fixing it. For every bit of rust you see, you can count on not being able to see that much over again. However, no rust, try a cowl vent repair kit. You will have to tear out your heater box and the vent (assuming 65-68) but it's less of a hassle than removing the 130 spot welds for a cowl top. I can't speak for the 69 and newer models, but I think you can get inside the cowl without tearing everything apart. Welcome again and good luck, Lonewolf
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trashline
Gearhead Posts: 1217
From: Levittown, Pa
Registered: Dec 2003
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posted 01-18-2004 12:12 AM
hey whats up... this is what i did i have and had the same prob. when i realized i had a leak wet floors and puddles ( thats why older 60s fords have no floors fairlanes and mustangs) you have to pull out the heater box dependign on what year you have. alo0ng with the air vent on the driver side. it is hard to get your hand up in the hole and feel for holes but do the best you can i got out every bit of dirt from the past 37 years and cleaned the hell out of it i even pulled the fenders to get the drain holes too. what happens is dirt leaves and debri get caught in there and hold moisture which rusts the vents out around the collar. if thats the problem then i have a temporary fix for it . two plastic hats that dont rust sealant and instructions. i bought it but didnt use it still in the bag. give it to ya if ya want it for like 15 bucks. if worst comes to worst, the sell full panels that youc an cut out the entire cowl vent area and replace them with new panels. just to give you some info
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adragon8u
Gearhead Posts: 4768
From: Oceano, Ca. member# 2895
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 01-18-2004 12:14 AM
there's also the cowl vent cover that goe's over the vent to keep water out. should be in one of the sponsors up top. would maybe get you by until you can fix it.
welcome to M&M.------------------
http://webpages.charter.net/adragon8u/mystang
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bob emmerich
Journeyman Posts: 65
From: Stratford,Connecticut
Registered: Sep 2000
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posted 01-18-2004 06:23 PM
Don't drive it in the rain(L) Sorry, had to get that out.
Ok-Welcome! Getting serious, you could always get the plastic cover that goes over the outside cowl for 26 bucks and leave that on until you can save the cash to do it right. A second alternative is as mentioned-the plastic "hats" repair(of course that's if it's not too badly rusted).There's also another method by which you take off the fenders,cut a hole in the side of the cowl, and vacuum it out and seal it with undercoating and paint(I'd recommend doing this along with the "hats").
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heavenerm
Journeyman Posts: 45
From: Wahiawa, HI
Registered: Jun 2003
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posted 01-19-2004 05:49 PM
I just finished mine this past summer. So far no leaks. I did what the last post said and took the fenders off. The damage was so bad on the drivers side that there was no more cowl where the hat was. I cut the side of the cowl, and had enough room in there to reconstruct it with fiberglass. Before I did that I painted all of the cowl with POR-15. That should stop the rust. After I finished with the fiberglass I installed the plastic hats. I know this is not a permanent solution, but it was all I could do with the amount of money I had. You probably can do this for under $100. Good luck.Micah ------------------
'66, 289 Coupe
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kingskid17
Journeyman Posts: 9
From: Sylva, NC, USA
Registered: Jan 2004
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posted 01-20-2004 02:12 PM
Thanks for the replys. I have gone up under the dash and I don't see any rust. The hats feel very solid. Actually the leak is at the kick panel so I am wondering if the damage is in the corner. I will probably go ahead and pull the fenders. Thansk again!
And Trashline, if I decide to use the kit I will contact you about purchasing your kit. Thanks
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adragon8u
Gearhead Posts: 4768
From: Oceano, Ca. member# 2895
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 01-20-2004 02:25 PM
try this maybe?
http://store.cal-mustang.com/cm_abl e/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&User_ID=3425180&st=9580&st2=85735006&st3=59013725&Product_ID=2767&CATID=19&CM_SA=1------------------
http://webpages.charter.net/adragon8u/mystang [This message has been edited by adragon8u (edited 01-20-2004).]
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BornInAFord
Gearhead Posts: 456
From: Bend, OR, USA
Registered: Dec 2002
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posted 01-20-2004 06:07 PM
Welcome to M&M! 
If your leak is by the kick panel, you might just have a windshield gasket leak. These are very common, too. I did the complete weld-in replacement cowl fix (the only permanent solution, IMO) before I had my (ex)67 coupe, and sealed it very well. No more leaks. Then, I had a windshield place replace the windshield, and they must not have sealed it well enough, because the next rainstorm, the leak by the kick panel showed up again. I added more sealant around the glass and under the gasket by the pinchweld and fixed the problem.As a test, run a hose to your cowl grill, and add a small stream of water for a few minutes to each side. If it's the cowl, you will have a large puddle on your floor, and you will be able to feel where the water is coming from. A professional shop (or you can get it at an autoparts store) can check it out too by adding a fluorescent dye to trace the exact leak with a black light, but this can be spendy. It is pretty cool, though. Also, if your carpet is soaked after each rain and if your floors have rust-through, more than likely it's the cowl and it's been leaking for a while. Good luck with your detective work,
Daniel
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sphillips
Journeyman Posts: 7
From: Murfreesboro, Tn. usa
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted 02-19-2004 03:23 PM
You can fix this easy without breaking your neck. Take the fenders off. Take a thin-wheel disc and die grinder and cut off the top ends of the crowl (area under the fender) and cut a few spots welds in the seam. you will then have a hole big enough to get your hands in and cut out all of the rotted metal. Go to the hardware store and buy a std. 8" stove pipe flange (has correct dia. and metal thickness), trim it to size and bondo-glass it into the crowl. Paint. Then weld the pieces you cut out with the die grinder back in place. It will look orginal and all of this is under the fender. It works great and much easier than going under the dash.
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