|
Author
|
Topic: Cam...worth the $$$ ?
|
streetstang67
Gearhead Posts: 397
From: SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2002
|
posted 01-17-2004 12:40 PM
   
I'm seriously considering getting a cam, probably the Comp Xtreme Energy 262. And I will most likely pay for it to be installed, prices are:
cam intall (includes carb tune and timing adjustments): $250-$350
To degree the cam: $50 an hour
My first question is, about how much hp will this put me too? And second, Is this a reasonable price?
Is it worth it?
------------------
'67 coupe: 289 bored .030 over, c-4 tranny
Holley 600 carb, edelbrock performer intake, hooker comp headers, dual flowmaster exhuast 3.55s with traclok
IP: Logged |
MidLifCrisis
Gearhead Posts: 464
From: Frederick County, MD
Registered: Oct 2001
|
posted 01-17-2004 01:37 PM
streetstang67, I have the same set-up. '67 with a 289, bored .030 over, Holley 600, Performer, and C-4 tranny. I had GT-40 valves and roller tip rockers installed in the heads, and the bumps removed in the exhaust ports. The differences are I am using the Hi-po exhaust manifolds, and 2-1/4" duals with Dynomax Turbos.
The cam you are considering is what CompCams advises for our cars for hopped up street use. The racer guys all want to use the 270 solid lifter. The 270 has longer duration and approx the same lift. I like that the XE is hydraulic and never needs the rockers adjusted. I am using the XE262 also. I am impressed with the performance increase so much that I haven't bothered to change the stock 2.79 rear gear. The bottom end is very strong, but beyond approx. 4500-5000 rpm, it really starts to drop off. With your rear gear, you should be incredible off the line. I intend to dyno my car once things are sorted out. My guess is that this combo is good for approx. 235-260 HP at the flywheel. You could be on the higher end with headers. All in all, no regrets. As for the price, you got to shop around in your area. At $50 per hour, you are being charged for five to seven hours labor. I am not clear on that degreeing the cam charge. I thought that was done at the intial install, before the timing gear/chain was put on. There is a flat rate for cam installation and I would think 5 hours by an experienced mechanic would be max. Hope this helps in your selection. Good luck to you, Charlie
IP: Logged |
streetstang67
Gearhead Posts: 397
From: SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2002
|
posted 01-17-2004 05:00 PM
The price for degreeing the cam is per hour because he said that once he gets everything apart and gets the cam in, he will degree it for extra, but he said it could take from 1-4 hours to get it degree'd right. Without degreeing it, It will only cost $250-350. How much did yours cost to get it in?------------------
'67 coupe: 289 bored .030 over, c-4 tranny
Holley 600 carb, edelbrock performer intake, Crane XR-i ignition, hooker comp headers, dual flowmaster exhuast C-4 (stock) 3.55s with traclok
IP: Logged |
V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 4376
From: Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001
|
posted 01-17-2004 09:18 PM
Looking at your sig, you've built a formidable package... looks like you need a cam to make it really come alive  262 is tiny! I personally would go 268 minimum. Degreeing isn't absolutely mandatory unless you're tuning on a razor's edge  ... depends on how 'high maintenance' you're willing to live with. A new timing chain IS mandatory. If you buy a good quality timing set, chances are the cam will install spot-on where it belongs Just an idea: Install it yourself, and with the money you'd save buy an RPM manifold ------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html [This message has been edited by V8 Thumper (edited 01-17-2004).]
IP: Logged |
streetstang67
Gearhead Posts: 397
From: SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2002
|
posted 01-17-2004 11:11 PM
quote:
262 is tiny! I personally would go 268 minimum.
Here are the specs:
Specifications:
* Advertised duration: 262 intake/270 exhaust
* Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 218 intake/224 exhaust
* Gross valve lift: .493 in. intake/.500 in. exhaust
* Lobe separation: 110 degrees
* RPM range: 1,300-5,600
* Idle: Smooth
* Excellent response, good mid-range, stock converter, 3.23-4.10 gearIs that really too small?
quote:
Degreeing isn't absolutely mandatory unless you're tuning on a razor's edge ... depends on how 'high maintenance' you're willing to live with.
I dont want maintenance to be an issue, so what do I do? What exactly is degreeing the cam?
quote:
A new timing chain IS mandatory. If you buy a good quality timing set, chances are the cam will install spot-on where it belongs
This engine has less than 5000 miles on it, do I really need to replace the timing chain after such little use?
------------------
'67 coupe: 289 bored .030 over, c-4 tranny
Holley 600 carb, edelbrock performer intake, Crane XR-i ignition, hooker comp headers, dual flowmaster exhuast C-4 (stock) 3.55s with traclok
IP: Logged |
mustangs68
Moderator Posts: 22182
From: Buckroe Beach Va MCA#39406 M&M #12 Member Mustang Club of Tidewater
Registered: May 99
|
posted 01-18-2004 01:50 AM
Guys,
I assume you still have the stock 289 heads from your sig is that correct?Sam
IP: Logged |
streetstang67
Gearhead Posts: 397
From: SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2002
|
posted 01-18-2004 11:24 AM
yea, stock heads
IP: Logged |
n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 2395
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
|
posted 01-18-2004 02:09 PM
It's a great cam for stock heads. Put the degreeing money toward a matching set of valve springs and Performer RPM intake... and call it a day.If the cam is ground 4 degrees advanced already, install it at 'zero' on the timing chain. If it is ground straight up, install it 4 degrees advanced. I believe almost all 'off the shelf' Comp Cams are ground four degrees advanced, so I'd just install it 'straight up' with the timing chain and put the money elsewhere. Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220 [This message has been edited by n2oMike (edited 01-18-2004).]
IP: Logged |
streetstang67
Gearhead Posts: 397
From: SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2002
|
posted 01-18-2004 04:03 PM
Like I said earlier, my engine was just rebuilt less than 5000 miles ago, so do i need to replace the timing change with a cam change?
IP: Logged |
Firechief1400
unregistered
|
posted 01-18-2004 04:28 PM
Put in a new double roller timing chain when you put in the cam. Its cheap insurance and a good investment I am installing a 270H com cam in my 69 351W 4V. Can't wait to bump it over. Forget degreeing the cam. Not really needed for your use. Money could be spent elsewhere. Good luck
IP: Logged |
RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 827
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
|
posted 01-18-2004 07:46 PM
Streetstang, What timing chain did you put in when you rebuilt the engine? If you already have a good double roller timing set installed you should be able to reuse it. If you did not put in a double roller chain on the rebuild then change to one. ------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23
IP: Logged |
Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 18590
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
|
posted 01-18-2004 08:00 PM
quote:
Originally posted by RonnieT:
Streetstang, What timing chain did you put in when you rebuilt the engine? If you already have a good double roller timing set installed you should be able to reuse it. If you did not put in a double roller chain on the rebuild then change to one.
I agree 
------------------
SCOOP "It is the fight itself that keeps you young" 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
IP: Logged |
MidLifCrisis
Gearhead Posts: 464
From: Frederick County, MD
Registered: Oct 2001
|
posted 01-18-2004 10:27 PM
quote:
Originally posted by streetstang67:
The price for degreeing the cam is per hour because he said that once he gets everything apart and gets the cam in, he will degree it for extra, but he said it could take from 1-4 hours to get it degree'd right. Without degreeing it, It will only cost $250-350. How much did yours cost to get it in?
I think they are taking you for a ride. I don't know all the steps, Alex could help you with this one. From what I've seen, once the cam is in the block a degreed wheel is mounted to it and adusted a couple of degrees for optimum performance. I wouldn't think this would take that long- 15-30 minutes? Alex(Moneymaker) would have the answer.
As for how much?, I had my cam installed during the rebuild. Shop around. Surely this guy is not the only mechanic in town.
"It's a great cam for stock heads." quote from n2oMike I agree with Mike. The cam is great for what you got. Any more cam would be choked back by the stock heads. Even with the bigger valves, exhaust porting, and roller rockers in my car, I wouldn't want the idle quality to suffer from any more cam. (yes it has a slight lope, so if someone is paying attention, they will know the car has been "warmed over") Checking the specs, the XE262 has about the same lift/duration as a E303 cam which all the late model 5.0 guys like. Granted roller cams have a different grind and ramp speed, but the numbers are nearly identical. Performance differences should be marginal. One thing you must consider is how far do you want to go? The more cam you stuff in it, the less streetable it becomes. Which is okay for stop light to stop light, but what about a long distance cruise? Also, with the way gas prices are moving upwards, the bigger the cam, the worse your mileage becomes. Everything is a compromise. As stated elsewhere in the forums, you will benefit most from a balanced package. Too big a cam, then you will need different heads and intake.
Just too add to the confusion, if you want to play it safe, you could get the Edelbrock Performer cam, which is perfectly suited for your intake combo. If you are like me, and you want just a little more, go for the XE262. The HE268 seems to be another good choice, but it's specs seem mighty close to the Edelbrock cam and I have no experience with it. Good luck my friend. Charlie
IP: Logged | |
Mustangsandmore Forums
UBBFriend: Email This Page to Someone! 
