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  64' C4 tranny locked up

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Author Topic:   64' C4 tranny locked up
mannyman
Journeyman

Posts: 4
From: la
Registered: Jan 2004

posted 01-15-2004 04:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mannyman   Click Here to Email mannyman     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
my tranny will stall as soon as i put it in drive or reverse. im guessing its the torque converter that got locked up, not letting it slip. now the question is will i need to replace the torque converter, or is the problem in the valvabody??
thnx
manny

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N266fords
Gearhead

Posts: 1380
From: Spokane ,WA USA
Registered: Apr 2003

posted 01-15-2004 06:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for N266fords   Click Here to Email N266fords     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
welcome to M&M first off! second is you idle set low with a large cam? do you have a vacuum leak? what engine what stall what compression what is your timing set at what kind of ignition.? this might help us out a little.Bruce

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 25539
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 01-15-2004 06:41 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Welcome to M&M

Am I to understand that your car stalls out or stops when you put it in gear?
If so, you need to rebuild it. The direct and forward clutches are welded up.

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

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mannyman
Journeyman

Posts: 4
From: la
Registered: Jan 2004

posted 01-16-2004 08:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mannyman   Click Here to Email mannyman     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
thanx guys. I have been looking through some forums and found this has some of the most informative and most knowledgable members on the net. So with that being said, i am a noob to the domestic world. I used to work on imports hondas and acuras mostly.(before u cast ur stones and think im some ricer, let me say that i worked on my own car, and did some indepth engine mods) so i somewhat know my way around a motor. but i have always wanted a 50's style hot rod. So i purchased a 1954 customline which had been updated with a 65' 289...(so its somewhat of a TRIVIA, AS U CAN IMAGINE) which leads me here with u guys. Hope u dont mind me posting in here, i figured since the 298 came in the earl mustangs you guys would best help me out. Thats more than u guys needed to know, but hope it helps.
Now back to the problem..... my motor is a completely stock 289 4v which i think came from a 1965 galaxie. no vacuum leaks.(i have one going to the pvc to carb,distributor to carb, IM to the tranny vac modulator) motor is stock along with the torque converter. havnt had a chance to actually check the timing, my buddy has my timing light. but i did have an idle prob, and i kept advancing it until it went away. now it idles decent. Ohh and my tranny is an automatic. If I jack up the car from the rear end with the tires off the concrete, and put the car in drive or reverse the tires will spin. But as soon as i brake and make the whels stop my car will stall out. I had a local mechanic look at it, and sdaid its my carb. can that be possible? i just rebuilt the holley 4v a couple days ago. this was my first one, and the car runs decent, so im guessing i did an ok job. sorry such a long post. but know u guys might be able to give me some feedback.
thnx manny

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N266fords
Gearhead

Posts: 1380
From: Spokane ,WA USA
Registered: Apr 2003

posted 01-18-2004 02:25 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for N266fords   Click Here to Email N266fords     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Alex Im not trying to second guess you but i think its Timing or something in the burn proceess anyway. It might be so rich its loading up and under the load of being in gear it cant burn the fuel to air mixture.bad coil over flowing foats timing off ect. How are your floats adjusted? is fuel dumping in at idle? what is your timing at with the vac adv disconected? Bruce

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mannyman
Journeyman

Posts: 4
From: la
Registered: Jan 2004

posted 01-18-2004 07:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mannyman   Click Here to Email mannyman     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
ok.. that makes sence. i really dont know what the marks mean mean on the harmonic balancer, so i cant really get the timing on. n266, u might be able to help me out with that one. but as far as coil, its brand new. the floats where adjusted as refered to a how-to i found on the net. it said to flip my bowl upside down(needle and seat pointing to the ground) and raise the float until its leveled. so thats how they are right now. should i lower it a tad more?? and i am getting fuel at idle... doesnt seem as its that much since there isnt black smoke pouring out the tailpipes. i think i will keep advancing until the motor starts to ping, and see if that helps. thnx bruce, and i hope u could shed some light on what the timing marks on the balancer indicate.

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 18590
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 01-18-2004 08:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
There is some info here,

http://stangstable.com/timing_tips.htm

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SCOOP

"It is the fight itself that keeps you young"

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

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mannyman
Journeyman

Posts: 4
From: la
Registered: Jan 2004

posted 01-29-2004 04:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mannyman   Click Here to Email mannyman     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
thnx scoop. Well, i finally fixed the problem!! Just an update on my situation, hope it will help someone else how might have a similar prob. On my last post it seemed that i couldnt even correct the timing, and the motor wouldnt even wanna start anymore so i just gave up. I was about to tow the damn car to a mechanic i trust in palmdale(about 80 miles). I thought i better clean up the wiring mess under the hood, so my mech could atleast trace things back to what they belong to. As i was taping up the wires that go to the coil, and wondered why i had 2 wires going to it. So I started to research if indeed needed the 2 wires or not. And thats when i starteted to read abot a ballast resistor that was also conected to the ignition wire leading to the coil. I DIDNT HAVE ONE OF THOSE IN BETWEEN THE COIL AND IGNITION!! I read some of the problems that occur when u dont have one. I thought well what the hell, I went and bought a resistor, a new coil, and new points and condensor. As I took out the points, they were pitted and all burned up! So I knew i was heading the right direction. And at first it didnt wanna start.. I was bummmed!! I backed of the timing some, and bam!! it fired right up. I got out my timing light and even got it itmed to around 8 deegrees. i went inside put in drive and it didnt stall!! i said praise the lord, and was happy as can be. thanx for all the help guys, I really apreciated it.

manny

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 18590
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 01-29-2004 04:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thats great, have you taken it out for a drive yet ?

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SCOOP

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

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N266fords
Gearhead

Posts: 1380
From: Spokane ,WA USA
Registered: Apr 2003

posted 01-29-2004 05:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for N266fords   Click Here to Email N266fords     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
sorry i work for time and do 21 credits in college so I was unable to get back to you on the timing.When you time a car with points you have to set the gap for the right dwell. then set timing and recheck dwell.ect. also you want to plug the vac advance line that goes into the pod on the distributor, the plug goes on the line going to the carb not the pod. then check timing also you want to make sure to set your carbs air fuel mixture screws with a vacuum gauge adjust one screw until it reads high and steady and then go to the other side and do the same then back and forth until it is at its highest reading then a 1/4 turn back in. you may have to lower your idle as sometimes it will raise it up as you adjust the air bleeds. good luck and you might want to consider a duraspark ignition system (elecronic).they are cheap and worth the upgrade or an msd ignition set up (the best).Bruce

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