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Author
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Topic: White Powder on Exhaust Manifolds - oh oh
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Stinkynutz
Journeyman Posts: 22
From: las vegas, nevada, usa
Registered: Nov 2003
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posted 12-18-2003 11:20 AM
   
I think I know the answer to this, but I have to ask because I'm in denial. I have a very healthy coating of white powder on both exhaust manifolds of my 300 mi. rebuilt 289. The engine also doesn't cool down very well considering the 4 core radiator, electric fan and new water pump. Head gaskets? Any other possible causes? Please help. I bought the car with this engine, and I'm unsure if the builder re-torqued the heads after run-in.
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 3936
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-18-2003 12:20 PM
Lean condition and/or retarded timing can do the same thing. Got water in the oil or visa-versa? I'd check the cheap/easy stuff first.------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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Stinkynutz
Journeyman Posts: 22
From: las vegas, nevada, usa
Registered: Nov 2003
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posted 12-18-2003 12:59 PM
Actually, I do have some strange timing issues. The car has a rebuilt distributor with vacuum advance, all of which looks to be good shape. Dwell also checks ok at idle and at higher rpm. Here comes the weird part. With the vacuum advance connected to the vacuum port on the carb (no vacuum at idle), the car misses at high rpm (2000). So I've had to disconnect the vacuum advance and run on mechanical advance only. In this condition at idle, and with no vacuum advance, the timing is set right on the money. Am I getting too little advance at higher rpm by disconnecting the vacuum advance? Could this cause a retarded condition (the timing, not me) and also cause the white powder? I am not getting any oil in water or vice-versa fyi. Thanks for your reply. I could very easily chuck this distributor and advance and buy a rebuilt from Autozone, they only cost about 40 bucks.
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johnmustang
Gearhead Posts: 4933
From: British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 12-18-2003 01:15 PM
I think we have all been waiting to hear from you, so please click on the link and let us know.
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum14/HTML/013797.html
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JOHN
65 FASTBACK 2+2.....14.44 @ 107mph 1/4
87 TAURUS WAGON
03 F150 XLT SUPER CREW 4X4 SHORT BOX
Member:Vancouver Island Mustang Association
M&M #1710
65 FASTBACK
2003 F150 XLT SUPER CREW 4X4
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capri man
Gearhead Posts: 4147
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 12-18-2003 01:16 PM
hey stinkynutz, you gotta go to this forum and give us an answer!! inquiring mind want to know!!!LOL 
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum14/HTML/013797.html------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.51 @89mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft. http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/billswebsite/pg06.html
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Stinkynutz
Journeyman Posts: 22
From: las vegas, nevada, usa
Registered: Nov 2003
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posted 12-18-2003 01:46 PM
My name has no real significance here, other than that is my character name in UnrealTournament (UT) which is an internet battle game. When I signed up for UT, I was seeking something unusual. So for here, it was either that name or "MIDDLEAGEDGUYTHATLIKESTOMESSWITHHISCAR", but that was too long. So there you have it folks. Sorry to not have a more enticing story. Now back to my mystery powder and goofy timing...any help would be appreciated.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 36138
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-18-2003 01:49 PM
Maybe it's stinkynuts powder?  ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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Stinkynutz
Journeyman Posts: 22
From: las vegas, nevada, usa
Registered: Nov 2003
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posted 12-18-2003 02:08 PM
Nope, checked those out thoroughly. Clean as a whistle. 
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capri man
Gearhead Posts: 4147
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 12-18-2003 02:14 PM
check the timing at about 2500-3000 rpm and see what you got. it should be about 18-20 degrees higher than your idle setting.------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.51 @89mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft. http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/billswebsite/pg06.html
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 36138
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-18-2003 02:23 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Stinkynutz:
Nope, checked those out thoroughly. Clean as a whistle.
Then I'm stumped. Seriously, about your problem, can you snap a picture so we can see what you're talking about? ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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johnmustang
Gearhead Posts: 4933
From: British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 12-18-2003 02:55 PM
It sounds like excessive heat is causing the manifolds to heat up and produce that white powder, could be the manifold paint chemically reacting to the heat. Now we just have to figure out what is causing the excessive heat. Like some of the other guys have said could be timing or fuel, could also be that when the head gaskets were put on they were installed incorrectly and the gasket is actually plugging the water passages or even the intake gaskets are plugging the water passages. If you can, get a thermal thermometer and start to take readings from the heads, intake, block and exhaust manifolds when the car is running at idle, see if there is one or more very hot spots and mark down where they are. Don,t rule out a faulty T-stat or water pump or radiator. Even though they are new they can fail right out of the box. Just a few suggestions to try and help, the more experienced guys on here will be more help then I am, and I am sure they will help you track down the problem. ------------------
JOHN
65 FASTBACK 2+2.....14.44 @ 107mph 1/4
87 TAURUS WAGON
03 F150 XLT SUPER CREW 4X4 SHORT BOX
Member:Vancouver Island Mustang Association
M&M #1710
65 FASTBACK
2003 F150 XLT SUPER CREW 4X4 [This message has been edited by johnmustang (edited 12-18-2003).]
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indyphil
Gearhead Posts: 1227
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 12-18-2003 03:28 PM
I like Johns suggestion, its probably paint burning and turning into ash. So the question is: is the manifold getting too hot?Its odd that your vacuum advance was causing problems. are you using points? that high rpm miss is interesting - how new is the cap and rotor? Anyway maybe by not running the vacuum advance its running too retarded under load and thats getting them manifolds hot. whats your timing at idle without the vacuum hooked up? You said its dead on but you didnt say what it was. should be anywhere from 6-12 degrees. I run about 10 the manuals say 6 or 8 depending on which one you read. There may be nothing much wrong but simply they painted the manifolds to make them look nice and now its burning off. Ive seen that before. I too have a high efficiency rad, and new water pump the fan is important, what kind of electric fan do you have? And if the builder didnt retorque the heads, theres nothing stopping you from checking them yourself with a good torque wrench. Using the tightening sequence from the manual. ------------------
'68 coupe 289 C code
66 heads, edel 600cfm carb, performer intake, dual exhaust http://www.geocities.com/ottouk_77/68mustang.htm
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Stinkynutz
Journeyman Posts: 22
From: las vegas, nevada, usa
Registered: Nov 2003
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posted 12-18-2003 07:13 PM
Thanks for all the offerings, you guys are great. I have e-mailed some photos to Steve, hopefully he can post a couple. The distributor is a rebuilt ford, single point with new points, condenser, cap, rotor. The electric fan is from hot rod air, its a very high powered unit with a built in shroud. I have not yet replaced the T-stat, that was next on my list. The other particulars are as follows: Newly rebuilt 289, factory "A" code version date numbers matching block and heads for late 65 (12/65 w/non-rail rockers - now Comp Magnums). Stock cam (I suspect), Performer 289 intake, out of the box Holley street avenger 670 (screws turned out only about a turn so it wouldn't run rich), factory exhaust manifolds w/ 2" dual exhaust midas mufflers (soon to be hi-po's with 2-1/4" duals), timing at 6-8 BTDC. Idles like a sewing machine. C-4 auto. I know the carb's a little overkill but I have future plans to beef up the cam and heads. I will take some of the advice this weekend and: re-torque the head bolts, replace the t-stat, and check the advance (I do have an advance light), and probably buy an Autozone rebuilt dizzy with an advance correct for this car. Hopefully, all of this will help.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 36138
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-19-2003 10:52 AM
Here's the pic:
 Without a doubt, someone has coated your manifolds with a cheap paint {white header paint maybe?} or some other substance and it's burning off. It's nothing to worry about, just cosmetic, and you could take them off and coat them with something better, like Eastwood's stainless steel paint for example, it you wanted to improve the appearance. You guys are going to break your neck jumping to conclusions like that... ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip [This message has been edited by SteveLaRiviere (edited 12-19-2003).]
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 3936
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-19-2003 11:18 AM
Big Kahuna is right again, that looks like bar-b-q'd Krylon It would appear there's nothing to be alarmed about ------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html [This message has been edited by V8 Thumper (edited 12-19-2003).]
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