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Author
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Topic: Turn up the heat
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nickmobile67
Journeyman Posts: 96
From: NJ
Registered: May 2003
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posted 12-09-2003 05:25 PM
   
How's the heater work in your old mustangs? My 67 (with factory air) has a new 180 t-stat (did this before the new T-stat too) and heater core (PO). Above about 50 degrees it (barely) keeps you warm. When the temp goes below that it's not even worth putting on. The heat usually takes longer to warm up then the car too. I'm not gonna put in a 195 just for the little I drive it in the winter, but it would be nice to have more heat. Maybe I'm just spoiled by the kick butt heater in my 86 F150, but I still think it could do better.
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bibbs68
Gearhead Posts: 1185
From: Jackson, TN
Registered: Sep 2000
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posted 12-09-2003 05:38 PM
The heat in my 68 will roast your weenie!   I have to roll down a window to let some cooler air in.
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mustangs68
Moderator Posts: 18865
From: Hampton,Virginia,USA MCA#39406 M&M #12
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-09-2003 05:58 PM
Keep your feet warm..install long tube headers 
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 36138
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-09-2003 06:06 PM
It should drive you out of the car. Are you sure you aren't low on coolant? Is the heater fan blowing ok? Check to make sure the heater vents are opening properly.------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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Ken
Gearhead Posts: 4257
From: Prospect, Ct. M&M Member No. 31 MCA Member 49299
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-09-2003 06:06 PM
quote:
Originally posted by bibbs68:
The heat in my 68 will roast your weenie! I have to roll down a window to let some cooler air in.
Ditto.........great heater in my 65 too  ------------------
What makes men chase women they have no intention of marrying?
The same urge that makes dogs chase cars they have no intention of driving. Ken
1965 Springtime Yellow Coupe - 302GT40-4spd
Edlebrock RPM Air Gap - 670cfm Holley Street Avenger
Roller Cam - Duration 282'/282' @ 050 220'/220' lift 0.512
and much, MUCH MORE !!!
My 1965 (aka RUMBLE BEE) Photo Page
1995 5.0 Laser Red - 34000 original miles - 5spd - Coupe
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Mooney
Gearhead Posts: 123
From: Marietta, Ga
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 12-09-2003 06:13 PM
I have to agree with everyone EXCEPT when i first got my '65. Whoever had it before me had plugged in the heater switch upside down (they left one prong exposed) and it only worked on low and lower and it never blew even remotely warm.
But once I switched it around it blew like a top.
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pmhvps
Gearhead Posts: 104
From: Lowville,Ontario,Canada
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 12-09-2003 06:48 PM
My '68 Fastback brought up from Arizona had the hoses reversed. Very little heat. Switched them.....hot hot heat!
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indyphil
Gearhead Posts: 1227
From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 12-09-2003 07:42 PM
I have a 160 t-stat and it still blows warm air. Check the blower motor and all the other suggestions.------------------
'68 coupe 289 C code
66 heads, edel 600cfm carb, performer intake, dual exhaust http://www.geocities.com/ottouk_77/68mustang.htm
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nickmobile67
Journeyman Posts: 96
From: NJ
Registered: May 2003
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posted 12-09-2003 10:39 PM
WOW, thanks for all the quick replies!Did I mention I have factory air, if that matters. I'll have to make sure the hoses arn't backwards on the core. (doubt that but maybe) Fresh coolant and all, fan works fine on all speeds, just blows the cold air faster. I put all new vacuum lines in the car, so they should all be working properly. I'm pretty sure their all on right but I'll check. I'll have to check to make sure the vacuum controled heater valve works ok. Moony, what switch are you talking about? I didn't know you could plug anything in upside down.
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johnmustang
Gearhead Posts: 4933
From: British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 12-10-2003 01:12 AM
My 65 has a 160 T-stat and it blows very warm afetr about 10 minutes of idle in the winter.------------------
JOHN
65 FASTBACK 2+2.....14.44 @ 107mph 1/4
87 TAURUS WAGON
03 F150 XLT SUPER CREW 4X4 SHORT BOX
Member:Vancouver Island Mustang Association
M&M #1710
65 FASTBACK
2003 F150 XLT SUPER CREW 4X4
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grandestang
Gearhead Posts: 256
From: Lake Bluff, Illinois USA
Registered: Jan 2003
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posted 12-10-2003 02:49 AM
As you said, the vacuum valvle is probably sticking. This happened to my car and a little fooling around with it and I was blowing scalding heat once again.
A remote possiblity could be that rust and corrosion/mineral buildup clogged the heater core. This would be more likely if the car was sitting for a while. Although antifreeze has some anticorrosion agents, it can happen. Probably not the case however.Paul ------------------
1970 Grande
H code 351W FMX [This message has been edited by grandestang (edited 12-10-2003).]
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nickmobile67
Journeyman Posts: 96
From: NJ
Registered: May 2003
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posted 12-10-2003 09:16 AM
Ok, now for the million dollar question. How do you unstick a sticky heater valve?I put a vacuum pump on it and it holds vacuum, but I didn't hear the typical sound you hear coming from a vacuum motor working, it was quiet. Should I spray something in there or just get a new one?
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 1644
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 12-10-2003 09:19 AM
quote:
Originally posted by pmhvps:
My '68 Fastback brought up from Arizona had the hoses reversed. Very little heat. Switched them.....hot hot heat!
How does having the hoses switched affect the heat output? Seems like a heater core will radiate heat regardless of which direction the coolant goes thru it - or does it have something to do with the inline vacuum-actuated valve - that the valve won't work correctly if the hoses are switched? Ryan
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nickmobile67
Journeyman Posts: 96
From: NJ
Registered: May 2003
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posted 12-10-2003 11:45 AM
Ok, the hose from the manifold goes tward the middle of the fire wall, the hose from the water pump goes to the left (looking at the fire wall) and this is the hose the valve is in. I checked the valve with my vacuum pump and it appears to be working. Now, I looked at my vacuum diagrams but can't get a clear answer. I only get vacuum to the valve when the heat lever is moved all the way to the cool position (activating that little switch on side of the heater box). So that leads me to two things. Either the valve is always open and vacuum closes it (for when the air is on) OR the vacuum is supposed to open the valve and it's working backwards. This could explain the poor heat, but how would it work backwards? Personally, I think the former, that the valve is always open until vacuum goes to it, and the problem lies elsewhere. I'd take it for a spin and see if the hoses get warm, but I have to be at work in a little and the roads are still a little sloppy from the snow last week. The car probably won't leave the (cold) garage for a while.
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Mooney
Gearhead Posts: 123
From: Marietta, Ga
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 12-10-2003 05:16 PM
nickmobile67: Doesn't sound like this would be your problem at all. But the switch I spoke of is a resistor, between the heater switch and blower motor. On my 65 it's right on the outside of the heater box, and it was plugged in so that one of the prongs wasn't in place, almost like your modern day 3 prong plug, except with the ground being left to hang.
But best of luck on your problem.
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pmhvps
Gearhead Posts: 104
From: Lowville,Ontario,Canada
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 12-10-2003 07:43 PM
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Ryan Wilke:
[B] How does having the hoses switched affect the heat output?
Good question....may-be it reverse flushed the system. 
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Tom G
Gearhead Posts: 243
From: Bethlehem, Pa USA
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 12-10-2003 10:33 PM
Any flow across the heater case ? As in inside the car can you tell if the heater core is warm? I the heater control valve a ford part numbered item? Some of the aftermarket ones don't work very well, WEnt thru a couple tryin to get heat in my old 69 f-250 with underdash factory air. Justa my 2 cents.------------------
67 Mustang F/B 302 GT-40X FMS Crate engine 5 spd cable clutch13.39 on 205/70/14 BFG @104 mph Flowmasters X Pipe 4.11 9". Body shop Dec 03 03 Focus ZX3 BORLA exhaust Wings West spoiler (Arrest ME RED)
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Cruzer
Gearhead Posts: 270
From: Lancaster, South Carolina, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-11-2003 10:40 PM
I sure hope you get your problem fixed, because I'm having the same problem with my 68 with factory air. Fan works great, but very little heat. I've changed the themostat 180', antifreeze, hoses & heater core. I've check all the vacuum lines. Everything I can think of & nothing.
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nickmobile67
Journeyman Posts: 96
From: NJ
Registered: May 2003
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posted 12-12-2003 11:15 PM
Maybe it's something about air cars?Drove the car to work today. It was nice and sunny and all the snow is gone. Not to mention it was about 40*, perfect for checking the heater! Poped the hood at work, both heater hoses seemed warm. Checked again in the garage at home tonight, both still seem warm. Guess there's flow through the core, which means the valve must always be open until vacuum closes it (seems odd but true I guess, any ideas on that?) Well, now I'm out of ideas...
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nickmobile67
Journeyman Posts: 96
From: NJ
Registered: May 2003
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posted 12-21-2003 11:09 AM
Anybody come up with anything yet? How about you, Cruzer? Took the car out yesterday for about an hour, it was COLD out. If you got out of the car and got back in, it was barely warmer in the car then it was outside. If I move the heat lever to cool, I can feel it get cooler, it's just not getting hot enough. Temp seems fine. Fan is still blowing fine. Heater valve seems to be working ok, any more ideas?
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skcce
Journeyman Posts: 6
From: Deltona,FL
Registered: Dec 2003
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posted 12-26-2003 05:11 PM
Just a theory but...what if radiator sealant was used once and partially blocked the flow through the heater core , but not enough to effect engine performance etc. You would still have pressure in the system showing no leaks,but decreased liquid flow through the heater core, thus low heat transfer into the car....kinda like just having your heat lever on low at the dash.------------------
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 1644
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 12-28-2003 07:14 AM
I think I'd disconnect the heater "return" hose under the hood and get a look at just how much water was circulating thru the heater core..... As SKCCE inferred, the core may be partially blocked for some reason.
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dhearn
Gearhead Posts: 231
From: Owenton Ky,USA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 12-28-2003 05:37 PM
just a thought
after driving the car and getting it up to temp the heater hoses should be about 180 degrees which is uncomfortably warm to hold with your hand. If the hoses are just warm you must not be getting flow through them.
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Cruzer
Gearhead Posts: 270
From: Lancaster, South Carolina, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-29-2003 10:05 AM
quote:
Originally posted by nickmobile67:
Anybody come up with anything yet? How about you, Cruzer? Took the car out yesterday for about an hour, it was COLD out. If you got out of the car and got back in, it was barely warmer in the car then it was outside. If I move the heat lever to cool, I can feel it get cooler, it's just not getting hot enough. Temp seems fine. Fan is still blowing fine. Heater valve seems to be working ok, any more ideas?
I let the car run to get it up to temp & it seemed to have good heat coming from the vents. Maybe it is a heater core flow problem. One time it heats good then the next time it hardly heats at all. Maybe I'll replace the heater core again.
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RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 727
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-29-2003 10:35 PM
You could have a door sticking not allowing the air to flow through the heater core. Since you have a factory air car there is a door that swaps from air to heat and it could be the problem.------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23
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nickmobile67
Journeyman Posts: 96
From: NJ
Registered: May 2003
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posted 12-30-2003 10:38 AM
I don't know about Cruzer's car, but my car the door works. It is the one connected to the hot/cold lever, correct? When I move that I can feel the temp change, but barely.
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RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 727
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-31-2003 01:58 PM
The lever that controls the temperature is connected to the heater control valve, not a door in the box. The lever that selects if the A/C, Heater, or defroster opens and closes the doors in the heater box.------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23
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68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 1256
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 12-31-2003 03:14 PM
Had AC in my fastback for a while and a 160 deg thermostat and had tons of heat and so does my coupe with a 180 deg thermo. Get a new heater control valve that goes inline of the heater hose inside the engine compartment or maybe the doors on your heater box isn?t working right. It might not be the vacuum control motor assembly is bad but maybe it just needs to be adjusted or the vacuum hose fell off. Having some vacuum line mixed up can do the same thing also.------------------
Ed S. 68 S-code FB GT 4spd(now C6)/3.25 PS PDB
68 J-code(now 289) Cp Sprint"B" C4/3L00-9" PDB PS AC
99 F150 XLT Ext/cab, 4X4, 5.4L, 3L55
03 Winstar Limited with the works! (Wife's car) [This message has been edited by 68 S-code GT (edited 12-31-2003).]
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nickmobile67
Journeyman Posts: 96
From: NJ
Registered: May 2003
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posted 01-11-2004 07:23 PM
OK I got some new info here! I see that the water is supposed to flow from the intake to the water valve, then to the passenger side inlet on the heater core, then out the drivers side outlet, and back to the water pump.Well, my car has the hose from the intake going into the DRIVERS side outlet, then the hose from the passenger side goes into the water valve (after it's been through the heater core) and back to the water pump. Now I don't know if this would cause poor heat, but it sure isn't right, and is probably making the car hotter in the summer with the heater valve on the wrong hose. Not to mention I see I don't have the original heater valve mounted to the firewall (although that explains those two holes!) Anyone have any experience with the repop heater valves? They say they may differ from the originals, but they're way closer than what I've got, but for $25 it better work good too. I might as well replace all the heater hoses too. Can I buy the preformed hose I will need seperate? I'd just assume use regular heater hose rather than the exact repop stuff, except that molded hose I'll need for the firewall. What size is that hose, anyway? 5/8" or no? I can flush the heater core while I'm at it too. And you can even get to the heater core hose ends from under the hood! Problem is, it's so cold out I'm not gonna be messing with this for a while (although I do have off tommorow and it's supposed to be in the 40's again, but I don't have the parts yet) Thanks.
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68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 1256
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 01-11-2004 07:49 PM
My garage got up to 20 today, I have to finish insulating it.
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nickmobile67
Journeyman Posts: 96
From: NJ
Registered: May 2003
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posted 01-11-2004 08:24 PM
Hey, I'm in new jersey too! Yea, its cold. My first floor is insulated, still need to do the roof. Maybe in the spring. Insulation helps by itself, but when it's 20 you need some heat in there too!
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RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 727
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 01-12-2004 08:11 PM
Boy the lows here have been in the low 40's and the high's in the upper 60's, I don't know how you deal with the bitter cold of winter up north, and all the snow, it must be miserable at times.------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23
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Tom G
Gearhead Posts: 243
From: Bethlehem, Pa USA
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 01-12-2004 09:32 PM
quote:
Originally posted by RonnieT:
You could have a door sticking not allowing the air to flow through the heater core. Since you have a factory air car there is a door that swaps from air to heat and it could be the problem.
You might be right about the blend door being stuck.------------------
67 Mustang F/B 302 GT-40X FMS Crate engine 5 spd cable clutch 13.39 on 205/70/14 BFG @104 mph Flowmasters X Pipe 4.11 9". Body shop NOW! 03 Focus ZX3 BORLA exhaust Wings West spoiler (Arrest ME RED)
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Tom G
Gearhead Posts: 243
From: Bethlehem, Pa USA
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 01-12-2004 09:39 PM
quote:
Originally posted by nickmobile67:
Hey, I'm in new jersey too! Yea, its cold. My first floor is insulated, still need to do the roof. Maybe in the spring. Insulation helps by itself, but when it's 20 you need some heat in there too!
warmed up today in Jersey (I work out of Bridgewater area) got up to 35 degrees and snow flurries. tommorrow the same.
WHere in Jersey are you at?
------------------
67 Mustang F/B 302 GT-40X FMS Crate engine 5 spd cable clutch 13.39 on 205/70/14 BFG @104 mph Flowmasters X Pipe 4.11 9". Body shop NOW! 03 Focus ZX3 BORLA exhaust Wings West spoiler (Arrest ME RED)
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nickmobile67
Journeyman Posts: 96
From: NJ
Registered: May 2003
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posted 01-13-2004 09:40 PM
I don't think the blend door is sticking, the cable is moving and the lever on the outside of the box moves, it sounds and feels like it is working.I'm near Mays Landing. About 10 miles from atlantic city. (but a 25 minute drive!)
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68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 1256
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 01-13-2004 11:31 PM
But it?s going to be in the teens by morning and be singles and teens for the highs for the rest of the week. It?s not normally this bad but the Canadian members have to let us know what they are dealing with most of the winter once and a while.My in-laws have a place by Sea Isle on the main land, I forget what town it is but I think its Sea Ville. Did you say all the hoses get hot? [This message has been edited by 68 S-code GT (edited 01-13-2004).]
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nickmobile67
Journeyman Posts: 96
From: NJ
Registered: May 2003
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posted 01-14-2004 11:08 AM
Yes, both hoses get hot, but pmhvps said that switching his hoses helped alot, and it appears mine are wrong. Worth a shot I guess!
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