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Author
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Topic: inner rocker removal
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Crystalnet
Journeyman Posts: 3
From: Hoschton, GA USA
Registered: Dec 2003
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posted 12-03-2003 09:24 PM
   
It's killing me, I'm trying to remove inner rockers from a 67 rustang. Does anyone know the best or any way to get to the very back end of the rocker. There is a sheet of metal crossing from the wheel well to the floor pan under the rear seat that is in the way of any drill or spot weld cutter.
I've seen pictures on the internet of it being done without removing this piece but it isn't explained how. I'm clearly missing something here but it was quoted to me today by a local body shop $2500 to replace both inner rockers and floorpans and torque boxes, price not including parts. Any help would be appreciated.
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pmhvps
Journeyman Posts: 84
From: Lowville,Ontario,Canada
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 12-03-2003 11:13 PM
The rear torque box is spot welded to the inner rocker as is the floorpan. It also has a flange that the wheelhouse is welded to. You just have to take your time...make sure welds are all cut. I had to take that section out a little bit at a time. You can do it. Take your time....Rome was not built in a......you know. Oh ya...a hammer and a good cold chisel helps. Safety Glasses![This message has been edited by pmhvps (edited 12-03-2003).]
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Crystalnet
Journeyman Posts: 3
From: Hoschton, GA USA
Registered: Dec 2003
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posted 12-04-2003 07:53 AM
Thanks for the motivation, it really helps. I am convinced I'll do it myself now but how exactly can I remove the spot welds from the back most 4 or so inches of the rockers netherregions if I can't get any tools (drill-related) back there, or are you suggesting hammer and chisel the spot welds out.P.S. Speaking of drilling, my 3/8 drill bit losses sharpness rather quickly. Does anyone else spend alot of time trying to sharpen bits with a wheel grinder or do you replace them at nearly $10 each.
:confused
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Rick1
Journeyman Posts: 5
From: Brighton, MI
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 12-04-2003 09:45 AM
This may be posted twice since I am having a tough time with my password - sorry.I have been replacing my inner rocker on a '65 convert. It is not fun. I cut out piece by piece and finally got it. I also removed or cut out part of the rear quarter panel to obtain access. I used and air saw, sawall, die grinder, chisels, air hammer and anyother tool I could to get into the confined area. It finally came out. Now I am replacing the parts. I re-installed the door only to figure out the whole side of my car needs to be realligned. I gave up, took the door back off to finish the floor pans and final welding on the inner rocker. All the external parts I will weld once the door is in place due to the alignment issues. Unfortionately I have not been able to figure out another way to do it. Good luck
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lonewolf
Gearhead Posts: 106
From: Colorado
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 12-04-2003 10:50 AM
You can try to get a an angle die grinder in there and grind down the flange of the inner rocker far enough to weaken the metal. Then separate the 2 halves with a hammer and chisel, air chisel, or panel splitting knife.But do take your time and make sure you have addressed all of the welds. I have a thread over in tool time on spot weld cutters. It seems that the consensus is to use pilot point drill bits and keep them sharp. lonewolf
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Crystalnet
Journeyman Posts: 3
From: Hoschton, GA USA
Registered: Dec 2003
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posted 12-04-2003 11:35 AM
Thanks lonewolf, I've went through several spot weld cutters from NPD which work great but have broken three or four going through the cowl ordeal and now the floor pans and rockers. I'll give the pilot point bits a try.
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mellowyellow
Gearhead Posts: 5817
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 12-04-2003 12:44 PM
On my 65 GT cv (now sold) had the rocker panels floor prob, also. Doing one side at a time, had a skilled welder come in with a torch and cut out the nasty stuff. I thens trimmed the edges with a grinder. The rear torque box is really bad but the guy made short work of it. When that side was finished with new rocker, floor sections and torque bow, called him back to do the other side. He was reasonable-$125 per side. $250 well spent.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 35449
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-04-2003 03:06 PM
quote:
Originally posted by mellowyellow:
On my 65 GT cv (now sold)
Can't blame you.  ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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