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Author
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Topic: HOW MUCH IS A GOOD PRICE ON BODY WORK TO A 68 MUSTANG?
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mustang347
Journeyman Posts: 71
From:
Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 12-02-2003 11:46 PM
   
68 MUSTANGA COUPEITS NEEDS ALOT WORK IN THE DOORS AND QUATER PANELS I HAVE NEW FENDERS ON BOTH SIDE THE TOP NEEDS NO WORK AND THE TRUNK IS GOOD. DONT KNOW WHATS A GOOD PRICE FOR BODY WORK. ALSO A PRICE FOR A PAINT JOB MAYBE CANDY APPLE RED. I RESIDE IN LONG BEACH, CALI AND IM STUDENT LOOKING TO SAVE CASH ON BODY AND PAINT
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Fastback68
Gearhead Posts: 1985
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 12-03-2003 12:42 AM
Are you willing to leave it in Mexico for a few months? Seriously. My friend in LA has a nice income, but he can't afford to do top-quality paint jobs and major body repairs locally. His cars take a vacation in Tijuana.
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lonewolf
Gearhead Posts: 106
From: Colorado
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 12-03-2003 12:51 AM
You might want to sit down for this....Do you have any pics you can post? Not sure about Long Beach, but standard shop labor here is around $60/hr IF you can get one of the crash shops to even look at it (insurance money is more predictable). Without seeing the car, to replace the qtrs, I am guessing around 10-15 hours each, depending on the damage plus parts. Most likely going to need at least new outer wheel houses too. I don't even know where to start on the doors so throw in another $1000 plus parts. For paint, what are looking at doing? Alot depends on the condition of the existing paint as well as how many layers are there. If the paint has to come off, it's hard to say what you will find underneath. It is also considerably cheaper to do if the car is completely stripped as you will not have as much money tied up in the labor to disassemble and mask the car. Paint also depends on the material and paint type and manufacturer. Urethanes are going to run more than acrylic enamels but will last longer and have better UV protection. If there is considerable damage to the doors and qtrs (I am assuming collision), the frame rails and rockers might need some help as well. Wouldn't hurt to have someone throw it on a frame rack and take some measurements. All of that being said, I would guess a good job will run you $10k in paint work, and probably another $1800 to replace the qtrs. All told and, again WITHOUT seeing the car, I am guessing about $13k to $15k not counting insundries. Show winner paint will run you in the $20k range. Not all is lost. You can save a ton of money by learning to do the paint and body yourself, at least the prep as sanding is considerable labor. Whatever you do, DO NOT do a Maaco or Earl Shribe paint job. You get what you pay for there. Sorry to give bad news. Long Beach might have considerably different prices as well. Best thing to do is to take the car to a couple of places and get estimates. If you can post pics, I can get a better handle at the damage involved. lonewolf
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 3817
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-03-2003 08:46 AM
I agree with lonewolf. It's tough to say without seeing it. Budget $2k for decent/good quality paint and materials, but the labor is the unknown. I'd suggest getting four or five estimates from local shops to see what's out there. I know of a few guys who've taken cars to Mexico for work, but not classics. I can't recommend going that route; no offense to anyone, but there's NO WAY I'd leave my car in TJ let alone drive it there. JMHO  ------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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Mooney
Gearhead Posts: 116
From: Marietta, Ga
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 12-03-2003 05:17 PM
Theres a place here in Atlanta that I took my car to get a quote on new quarters, they quoted me at $70 w/ 15 hours in each quarter... minimal. Might be time to change your major to an auto body tech...
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adragon8u
Gearhead Posts: 1658
From: Oceano, Ca.
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 12-03-2003 05:26 PM
are you a college student? does the college you attend have a body class? if so, you could offer to pay for materials and offer it as a training vehicle or work out something with a student in the class(I'm the king of cheap, so this is the way I think  ) for paint? if you can do the body work yourself and prep, I'd check into Macco.
jmo------------------
http://webpages.charter.net/adragon8u/mystang
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Mooney
Gearhead Posts: 116
From: Marietta, Ga
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 12-03-2003 06:36 PM
How are Macco's paint jobs? I'm doing the prep and body work on my '65 and just want to go back with the original Wimbledon White. It's by no means a show car, but I know I can do the body work as well as what I'd be able to pay to get. So Im just curious, what everyone thinks of their paint jobs?
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adragon8u
Gearhead Posts: 1658
From: Oceano, Ca.
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 12-03-2003 06:44 PM
I would assume it's like an Earl Sheib? not the best, but affordable
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CalSpecMustang
Journeyman Posts: 18
From: kansas
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 12-03-2003 08:34 PM
My friend has a civic hatchback with a maaco paint job and its about 3 years old the clear coats peeling and its now 3 different shades of red.
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lonewolf
Gearhead Posts: 106
From: Colorado
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 12-04-2003 10:44 AM
With Maaco and such, you get what you pay for. From what I hear, I think the paint is pretty low end and the prep work involved is minimal with their advertised paint prices on TV.However, if you want to go to a Maaco, try this. Do as much of the prep you can and take it in to be shot with the topcoats. Think of it this way, the painters there, can most likely paint there a$$ off since they paint a car every 30-60 minutes. That kind of speed takes some skill to do even a marginal job. Another thing I would do a Maaco would be to bring in my own materials and help them mix them. That way you have the quality control over everything but the spraying. I have never tried Maaco but have heard mixed success with that process above. lovewolf
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 1884
From: Beaufort, SC
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 12-04-2003 08:34 PM
My dad had a car (his ONLY Chebbie EVER) painted by Earl Sheib before selling it. It came back with fresh paint over the mud on the lower rear quarters. No kidding, drive it in, and they paint it as it is.
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adragon8u
Gearhead Posts: 1658
From: Oceano, Ca.
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 12-04-2003 08:48 PM
quote:
Originally posted by sigtauenus:
My dad had a car (his ONLY Chebbie EVER) painted by Earl Sheib before selling it. It came back with fresh paint over the mud on the lower rear quarters. No kidding, drive it in, and they paint it as it is.
my uncles ranchero, painted over the water in the bed
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http://webpages.charter.net/adragon8u/mystang
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lonewolf
Gearhead Posts: 106
From: Colorado
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 12-05-2003 12:36 AM
LOL (at adragon8u and sigtauenus). Thanks, I needed that.
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bill haab
Gearhead Posts: 222
From: south bend in.
Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 12-05-2003 01:29 PM
any one can give you a thousand dollar job.if you want orange peel' runs' overspray' your going to dig deep for that show car paint job. 5.000 $ in up ! I have talked to 6 painters. saving best painter for the last bid. He got the job he's cost was the highest to. but he said what I wanted to hear. SHOW ROOM
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Moneypit
Gearhead Posts: 123
From: Sacramento CA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-05-2003 02:04 PM
Just paid $8000 for my '67's body and paint. It had some existing body work in the qtrs and doors that had to be reworked and the cowl top and patch panels needed to be welded in. It was tough to find a shop that would even take it. They all like that insurance money better.
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bill haab
Gearhead Posts: 222
From: south bend in.
Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 12-05-2003 04:53 PM
COULD NOT BE SAID BETTER !! MONEYPIT HIT IT RIGHT ON THE NOSE quote:
Originally posted by Moneypit:
Just paid $8000 for my '67's body and paint. It had some existing body work in the qtrs and doors that had to be reworked and the cowl top and patch panels needed to be welded in. It was tough to find a shop that would even take it. They all like that insurance money better.
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mustangs68
Moderator Posts: 18727
From: Hampton,Virginia,USA MCA#39406 M&M #12
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-06-2003 09:25 AM
Formula for body work4X the amount you intended to spend plus 20%.
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stangpainter
Journeyman Posts: 4
From: Parker (Dallas), TX, USA
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 12-07-2003 07:37 PM
The places like Shibe and Macco can really lay down the paint. Like someone said they do 10/20 cars a day. The problem is they use junk paint. It's bought in 55 gallon drums and it will fade in one summer. Their prep guys get fired if they do not prep 10 cars a day. It takes me at least a week to prep a car. That's if it does not need any bodywork. I would stay away from them at all costs. Do the prep work yourself and talk a real bodyman into just shooting the car for you. Make sure you spend a few more dollars and get urothane. It's worth every penny.Lstar
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 1884
From: Beaufort, SC
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 12-07-2003 07:48 PM
In all fairness, if mustang347 just wants the paint shot, couldn't he do all the prep work himself, drive or trailer it to Maaco, do a final wipe down with cleaner and tach rag himself, and give them the supplies to use too?Do they give you an option of better paint for a higher price?
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Fastback68
Gearhead Posts: 1985
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 12-07-2003 09:19 PM
Ya know, when I hear these huge figures being bandied around, I understand a new trend. I don't know how much the Mexican work really costs, but I know of an Australian and a Norwegian who are now sending cars to the Philippines for restoration then shipping them back. Remember, shipping costs have plunged in the last 20 years, while labor costs in rich countries have skyrocketed.
I don't recommend this unless you know the guy here in charge of the restoration work, but if you do, and you trust him, it's got to be economically viable.
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RonnieT
Gearhead Posts: 706
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-07-2003 09:55 PM
If you look into the Earl Scheib and Macco Paint shops they offer several different levels of paint quality. You can pay up to abround a grand and get a good job, not show quality. On their web site they say that they use a 2 part urethane paint.
If you are not looking for a show quality paint job it may be worth talking to them and seeing if they can show you some examples of their top line paint job. The part of the job that is going to hurt the worst is the body work. You may check around and see if you can find someone that does bodywork at home as a sideline job, there are a good many auto body techs that work at home for extra money.------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23
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mustangs68
Moderator Posts: 18727
From: Hampton,Virginia,USA MCA#39406 M&M #12
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-07-2003 10:51 PM
Jason 1st Mustang he done all the body work and had the paint shot by Earl..I'll tell you that paint held up very well for $200.He did all the prep work even had the areas covered not to be painted and protect from overspray. When we picked it up the following day the painter told him he took extra time on it and done it last so it would stay in the "hot box" over nite..Looked great itll the day he got rid of it.
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PONYMAN
Gearhead Posts: 280
From: Ardmore, Ok. USA
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 12-08-2003 09:42 AM
In the process right now of having the fenderwell lip cut out of the driver's side on my 72 Mach 1. They said it would probably cosyt around $1200, and I'll be suprised if it doesn't cost over $1500. This is with me providing the quarter skin, and stripe kit. This shop does almost nothing but old cars, and turns out fantastic work. They may have to pait the entire driver's side to get the paint right as the orginal painter mixed his own color instead of using a formula, but they guaranteed it would be right when it came out of the shop. They said they would have the car for about two weeks also. I would rather them keep it longer and do it right. This same shop just did a friends GTX and talk about a rough car. Don't know the cost, but suspect it was around $8000, but the car came out absolutely perfect. Paint and body were great. Old saying is true, you get what you pay for.
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Perk 351C
Journeyman Posts: 49
From: Cape Neddick Me USA
Registered: Sep 2003
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posted 12-08-2003 08:43 PM
About six years ago,I took my wife's car to my local Macco in Portland Maine,to have the car shot and it was a horror show! They painted over dirt and mud,overspray on tires and hub caps,orange peel and runs,never again,to h*ll with Macco! Perk351C
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Tom G
Gearhead Posts: 218
From: Bethlehem, Pa USA
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 12-24-2003 10:46 AM
Stay away from Maaco if you want to have a paint job you can look at closer than 30' away. Sloppy work!
I am getting a deal on the body work for my 67. 35/hr He is doing d/s 1/4 ps 1/2 quater tail light panel SHelby decklid Shelby hood replace both doors and fenders Right now it is at $6kI am prepared for another 2k for extras. I will post the pics as soon as I can get them. Work in progress too.------------------
67 Mustang F/B 302 GT-40X FMS Crate engine 5 spd cable clutch 13.39 on 205/70/14 BFG @104 mph Flowmasters X Pipe 4.11 9". Body shop NOW! 03 Focus ZX3 BORLA exhaust Wings West spoiler (Arrest ME RED)
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Fastback68
Gearhead Posts: 1985
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 12-25-2003 10:10 AM
I think I have a hot tip here, but I'm not sure mustang347 is still with us. Are you still there fella?
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travs69
Gearhead Posts: 124
From: Bethalto, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-28-2003 05:00 PM
Had a friend take a car to maaco... they left a piece of paper under one of the seats and it was for the paint on his car (looks like something they give the shop guys to tell them which color and how much).. well the color code was the right one for his car.. but it only specified a quart of paint.. for a whole car.. it's gotta be spread really thin.
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 13090
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 12-28-2003 05:25 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Tom G:
Stay away from Maaco if you want to have a paint job you can look at closer than 30' away. Sloppy work!
I'm going to use Maaco this spring for my car. 
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SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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sigtauenus
Gearhead Posts: 1884
From: Beaufort, SC
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 12-28-2003 07:09 PM
Something else to consider is what do they tell you up front that you are going to get. I think from a Maaco employee perspective, their place is probably the place where cars are taken that you don't necessarily care what it looks like when its done. If you talk to the owner or manager and ask if their normal quality includes runs, etc, and show some interest in the paint being sprayed right, you can reasonably expect a better job by the simple fact of showing a higher expectation. I stand by the fact that generally speaking, anybody can shoot paint, and if you do the leg work of prepping the car, removing the trim, masking off everything, and buy some reasonably good paint, you can get a reasonably good job. I suspect this is what Scoop is going to do, and I bet his car will look fantastic from 10 or 20 feet for a good number of years. You have to really pay money to have something people can walk up to and put their nose on and not find anything wrong. You may get what you pay for, but don't forget the fact that anything you do yourself to help the painter you are adding payment in labor and have to take that into consideration of the final product. How's that for a run-on sentence?
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 13090
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 12-28-2003 07:27 PM
quote:
Originally posted by sigtauenus:
[B] I suspect this is what Scoop is going to do, and I bet his car will look fantastic from 10 or 20 feet for a good number of years. [B]
Your right I'm doing all the body and prep work myself. I'm not after a car show paint job right now. There is more body work that I'll get to later. I just want to get some paint on it for now. Until I can do the job right. I went and talked to the owner/manager of the Maaco in Reno. He walked me all around the shop and let me see what kind of work they do. He made no bones about the fact you get the job you pay for. He had some great looking cars there that had just painted. But he said those people did a great job on getting their cars ready.
I don't want to piss money away either.
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SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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John Z
Gearhead Posts: 334
From: Morgantown, WV
Registered: Jul 99
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posted 12-29-2003 12:35 PM
quote:
Originally posted by mustang347:
68 MUSTANGA COUPEITS NEEDS ALOT WORK IN THE DOORS AND QUATER PANELS I HAVE NEW FENDERS ON BOTH SIDE THE TOP NEEDS NO WORK AND THE TRUNK IS GOOD. DONT KNOW WHATS A GOOD PRICE FOR BODY WORK. ALSO A PRICE FOR A PAINT JOB MAYBE CANDY APPLE RED. I RESIDE IN LONG BEACH, CALI AND IM STUDENT LOOKING TO SAVE CASH ON BODY AND PAINT
I just got my car from the painter. He repaired some dings, replaced a quarter panel, hung and aligned doors, fenders, hood and trunk. He applied epoxy primer, 2 coats build primer, block sanded, repeated the build primer and block sanding, painted bc/cc and color sanded. The bad news is this took 204.5 hours of labor. The good news is labor cost here is $25/hr. The process took from August to December. I supplied all materials.
By the way, that candy apple red paint you want is very expensive.
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lonewolf
Gearhead Posts: 106
From: Colorado
Registered: Jul 2003
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posted 12-29-2003 12:42 PM
Wow $25/hour! I would take that. Standard shop labor around here is $50-$65 an hour depending on the shop.lonewolf
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 35449
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-29-2003 12:57 PM
You know, there's actually a lot to be said for having a paint job that isn't 100% perfect if it's on a car you drive on the street alot.A ding in a $5000 paint job hurts a hell of a lot more than a ding in a $700 paint job. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 35449
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-29-2003 01:01 PM
quote:
Originally posted by lonewolf:
Wow $25/hour! I would take that. Standard shop labor around here is $50-$65 an hour depending on the shop.lonewolf
Same here, about $60/hr. That's why it's important to do whatever you can on the car yourself. Pay for the stuff you can't do well yourself like the bodywork and paint and take off and replace at the trim. Most bodyshop guys prefer that anyway, especially with older cars that have hard to replace trim.
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'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 13090
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 12-29-2003 07:25 PM
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
You know, there's actually a lot to be said for having a paint job that isn't 100% perfect if it's on a car you drive on the street alot.A ding in a $5000 paint job hurts a hell of a lot more than a ding in a $700 paint job.
I agree with that 100%. I want my car to look good. Just not ready for a show car yet.
It's something to think about before you paint it.
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SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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